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I recently gutted the interior of my P5 and don't have the space to store everything I removed. So before I throw all of this stuff out, if you'd like anything and you're willing to drive to come pick it up, it's yours, free of charge! Here's the mess: It's pretty much everything except the...

If your A/C light is flickering (or doesn't even come on) on fan speeds 2 and/or 3 this is a simple solution that will hopefully fix it permanently. The original solution posted many years ago never really addressed the root cause of the problem. Almost 3 years later pasadena_commut came up with...

I just got done changing my inner and outer tie rod ends and thought I'd share my experience. Sorry for the bad pics, my camera is garbage. Things you'll need: Inner tie rod removal tool (makes the job way easier) New inner tie rods New lock washers (Mazda part # B25D-32-132, they cost me...

The replacement inner tie rod ends I bought didn't come with new washers and the service manual says that they should be replaced. I called a local Mazda dealership to see if they have any of these washers in stock and apparently the closest place that has them is in Ontario =/ So what's so...

It seems ever since I got my new summer tires my P5 behaves oddly on this kind of road surface: As I'm driving along it feels like the back-end of the car is wobbling side to side. It's quite the scary feeling but it goes away as soon as the road surface smooths out. In case it matters this...

I'm changing my rear struts and it seems the left top hat has rusted itself to the strut (yay). I've tried mounting it back onto the car and beating on it with a hammer but it didn't budge. The only thing I can think of doing is cutting the spring seat off the strut with an angle grinder to...

I was just about to get some KYBs from rockauto when I thought to check OMP instead. They're selling OEM struts for roughly the same price as aftermarket ones. I should go for the OEM ones, right?

I just wanted to know if it's really necessary to use a tool like the one in the service manual. This thing: I can't seem to find them locally and I'd rather not wait to get one from amazon. Could I use something like this? Or is there some other way to do it that I haven't thought of?

EDIT (Oct 9): I purchased one from a local scrapyard, this thread can be closed.

For the past month or so my I've been experiencing what feels like a warped rotor: when I press the brake pedal the car jerks to a stop, it's not at all smooth, also there's a slight pedal pulsation. I finally got a dial indicator and measured the lateral runout on my passenger-side disk, it...

It's raining tonight and I don't have the carpet installed in my car so I was able to observe a small water leak in action on the passenger side of my P5. The leak is in the right corner of the cabin, near the floor. The water seems to come out of nowhere, it's kinda weird. Hopefully I'll be...

Ever since I got my P5 the clutch pedal action would occasionally become less smooth. If I push the pedal in slowly I feel and hear a pop-pop-pop-pop from the top all the way to the end of the pedal stroke. If I push it in quickly it feels like I was stepping on a box of cereal. Here are the...

For the last 10K kilometers (maybe more) I've had this intermittent grinding noise, recently it has gotten a tad louder. The sound doesn't seem to be affected by changing direction with the steering wheel, and is present at all speeds but practically inaudible over 70km/hr. The only time I...

On a flat highway if I set my cruise for 100km/hr it will keep the car at 100 +/- 2-3km/hr. The speed varies in a sinusoidal fashion (this is expected based on the type of control system most often used for CC). My question is, how much does it waiver from the set value for you guys/gals? Is...

I'm looking for a new downstream O2 sensor, from what I gather Denso makes the sensors for Mazda, is this true? While I'm at it, is it worth getting a new upstream O2 sensor as well? I'm still using the original one after 170000+ KM.

Below is what I've been using, I'd like to know what you guys use :) Slide pins: Brake lube (aka rubber grease) Back of pads: Permatex Disk brake quiet Pad slides: High temp copper anti-seize lube I'm wondering if there's any point in using anything on the backs of the pads, I didn't use...

I'm itching to get my A/C working again, I'm just waiting on a vacuum pump... In the meantime I've been reading everything I can to make sure I do this right. I'm going to be replacing the receiver/drier and then charging the system. The service manual says I'll need to add 10ml of compressor...

Now that I have my summer tires on I can definitely feel that the car doesn't like to stay perfectly straight on the highway. It will sorta float from side to side, not in a dramatic way but I think it could be better. Hence why I've been shopping for control arms... Dorman has the same part...

My A/C system's receiver/drier has a slow leak so I'm going to replace it before it gets hot out. It seems R-134a isn't very easy to get locally, the only stuff I find is R-12a which is supposedly a lot better than R-134a. The manufacturers of these R-12a refrigerants boast colder temperatures...

I just installed a stainless steel clutch line. After bleeding it there's a ton of free play before the piston in the slave cylinder starts moving. It looks to be moving the right amount but I'm surprised changing a small piece of hose would cause that much of a difference. Anyone else...