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Update... the thermostat was bad and was causing the coolant to boil out. And the a/c needs freon. He also doesn't think the engine is damaged, based on some kind of "chemical" test he performed. Only about $300, which includes a radiator flush he talked me into. I'm ok with that.

The fan seemed to be working and there weren't any blown fuses. But then I discovered the radiator was bone dry. Added coolant and it was still overheating, so I dropped it at a semi-reputable garage around here. Biting my nails this morning... I only hope it hasn't been without coolant...

As odd as that sounds, it seems true. Beginning this weekend, my air conditioner doesn't blow cold when I'm stuck in slow traffic. But it gets nice and cold again (though slowly) when I'm moving fast again. Does this make sense? Any thoughts?

Awesome tips mike, thanks! Makes a ton of sense! And that's insane your timing belt has held up. I've needed it replaced twice. (Maybe the first time was a different belt, I forget.)

Yeah, the engine quick clean is interesting. You put it in with your old oil, run the engine for 15 minutes, and drain it all immediately afterwards. Definitely not something you leave in there! I did it once before around 50-60k.

I bought the DNX-6140 from Crutchfield a month or two ago, installed it myself with their kit, and had an overall great experience. Maybe I could have gotten a better deal elsewhere, but it was definitely cheaper than paying my local audio shop $300 more. The "custom" install kit mine came...

I just hit 100k last week, and it's been a fun 7 years. Here's to another 100k and 7 more! (cheers2) So I'm gearing up for the usual oil change, but also tune up, other cleans/flushes. I'm only just starting to see that rough idle issue. And I'm not comfortable digging around for the EGR...

Both at the same time. Upgraded all four headlights to those premium, super white sylvanias. Which are nice, by the way.

Now that I think about it, I didn't actually verify that the turn signals work. But the high beams and fogs definitely do.

Last night I noticed I had no low-beams. Highs are fine, fogs are fine, turn signals and parking lights fine. The bulbs are a few months old. I haven't had a chance to investigate yet, but I'm thinking (hoping) it's a fuse. Does that sound about right? Thoughts?

From what I understand, the fuel injection and engine are tuned to use the correct amount of fuel that burns at the rate that 87 octane does... so higher octane could actually cause engine knock over time. Or at least not provide the optimal timing of the engine. Can anyone back that up, or am...

Why does the box say you only need to clean it every 50k miles? That sounded insane to me and I was planning on doing it at half that (25k).

I decided it wasn't absolutely necessary. It's a Kenwood DNX-6140, and I opted not to spend an extra $200 on a backup camera. The manual said the nav system could benefit from the knowing when the car was in reverse, but I don't think it makes any difference.

I'm installing a navigation system, and I need to connect to the reverse light wire. When I dismantled the tail light assembly, it looked like it was the Yellow/Red wire. But that wasn't the case when I cut the same colored wire in the tube along the floor on the driver's side. The reverse...

Haha yes... Kenmore is my washer/dryer. Thanks for the info on the speedsense, I'd forgotten about that.

Hey guys. I'm excited because my new head unit arrives today. Finally replacing the factory stereo (after 7 years) with a Kenmore DNX-6140. http://www.crutchfield.com/dnx6140 Instead of paying my local audio shop $300 labor, I think I can do this myself. My main concern is where/how to...

Good point, booster. I'll polish and see what happens. Thanks!

Hey guys. I found the how-to on headlight haze, and I think I'll do it. Question though: is any of the haze (which I assume is more accurately described as oxidization) ever on the *inside* of the headlight? Thanks.

you should just go completely murdered-out