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Thanks a tonne for the pointers and direction. I really do appreciate it. I will check the alignment of the gears next. People like you make the internet work internetting in.

the spark is continuous, so it sounds like it isn't the crank position sensor, if this single spark behavior is, in fact, accurate. Thanks for pointing that out.

Oh man. I didn't know timing belts skipping was really even a thing! This one has 90k miles on it (It's the second belt. I did it the first time at 105k). You may be onto something. I'll check the alignment via taking the valve cover and side cover off and give the marks a look.

Grounded electrodes to engine block and got spark on all plugs/wires (20k miles on them) Tested fuel pump but not pressure. Manually switched the fuel relay by hand and a steady stream of fuel came out the disconnected return line (which went into a gas can for safety). Did a compression check...

Cool info guys I’ll report back tomorrow!

I want to test the fuel pump relay in my 2002 Protege5, but after searching for the forums, I haven't found a post indicating which pin is which. The only diagram I've been able to find is below, but the pin configuration of mine is an L formation while the diagram is 2x2. What the hell? Which...

Hey everyone. My 2002 Protege5 5 speed with 195k miles had a P0037 code that I noticed for a few weeks, so I ordered a rear OEM O2 sensor. While waiting for the part to arrive, the last time I drove it, it seemed to be missing most of it's horsepower which I immediately assumed was related to...

It appears, after stumbling across a post that didn't appear in my search parameters earlier, that it is M8x1.25, however, I am not sure the length. Might want to get a 20mm or 25mm and cut it down to be safe.

I recall breaking the head of one of these screws on the rear strut last time I replaced the strut housing and it's due time to replace that strut again, but I was not able to get the remainder of the old bolt out. Does anyone know a part number of size/pitch for this bolt so I can order a new...

Damn you were right. Bump starting worked. It also started after a jump. Maybe it's the battery or alternator huh?

2002 P5 5 Speed. My battery is fully charged, the positive and negative terminals seem tight, no clicking coming from the driver side fuse box when I try to start it, the keyfob works, the lights turn on. The instrument cluster all lights up in the on position. I can hear the fan blower relay...

Replaced it just now. New iac seems to stay together better thus far. Thanks for the direction.

I am trying to gain access to clean and/or adjust the passenger door contacts. I have removed the 4 small screws and the 3 larger ones, but I can't gain access to the contact points inside to clean them up since the inner and outer piece won't separate. The inner piece is lose, but I can't find...

Oddly enough, in posting this question, I realized it wasn't the PCV vave popping off in it's entirely, Rather, the valve has been pulling apart at the point where the white elbow piece connects to the darker piece that is on the engine attachment side. Are the glue on these things known to fail...

Good catch. I meant PCV. Long day at work :/

The hose isn't what's popping off. It's the light coloured hard plastic elbow piece that conncets to the cylinder head valve cover that is popping off. My car never had any compression fittings holding this piece on and I don't see an example of this in any of the images I have searched since...

Basically I know it is popping off where it connects to the valve cover on top of the engine because the idle gets rough. It's super easy to just pop it back on when this happens, but it happens pretty often. Does anyone have a solution? Yes, I already searched the forum, but didn't find anything.

I actually replaced my struts at 127,000 miles for the first time in 2007 based on this awesome post: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123674157-HOW-TO-Protege-5-Strut-and-Sway-Bar-install I am now at 188k miles and after 70k miles I am surely overdue to re-replace them (boom08)...

Ok, so I replaced the canister and that allowed me to fill the tank up to 3/4 full, but it stopped at that. I figured that was an improvement, but the next time I filled up from 1/4 full the problem returned and I still have to fill it super slowly. So the problem must be something other than...

I only fill my tank when 1/4 remains. I've never topped off. My concern is that if I replace the canister that the new one will also get soaked since gas leaked out of one of the disconnected hoses when I was attempting to fill it without the current canister hooked up. But if the consensus is...