Mazda Dealership Breaking my Car More than Fixing it

[Gabe710]

I just had the timing belt done at a local Mazda dealership, took the car back cause they left a few of the washers outta the valve cover and the car was running very rough when I got it back (they didnt recheck timing and car still runs rough. So thats annoying) However today, (after putting 50 miles on the car) I open the hood and theres oil everywhere on the passenger side. They didnt replace the valve cover gaskets, could it be that or more?
I should have done this job myself in the first place. I am starting to get comfortable working on cars and believe I could have mustered this out better than them at this point.

 

[stormkyori]

That's the thing once you get the itch to work on your car. You know you'll pay attention to detail because it's your car. I try to work on mine as much as possible unless we're taking about something major.

 

[pcb]

I .. I open the hood and there’s oil everywhere on the passenger side. They didn’t replace the valve cover gaskets, could it be that or more? ...

They probably didn't put silicone on the corners of the gasket like you're supposed to.
Even if you use a new gasket, you're supposed to use silicone.



The oil maybe dripping all over your new T-belt...

 

[minkushunter]

That sucks. I have also had issues with dealerships, as well as many other mechanic shops.

After having a Mazda dealership rear wheel speed sensor replaced, I discovered that there was a huge crack in the surround trim in the hatch.

The shop that swapped my P5 motor, someone scraped the side of the front bumper on a curb. This lead me to start making a video of what my cars look like when dropping it off places.

I have had shops over charge me labor for things that take just a minute to do.

I can make a huge list of ways I got screwed over by mechanic shops, I just stop going to them. I do everything myself now, unless it is something that requires special equipment that would be very expensive to get lie a tire machine or an alignment rack.

 

[Natey]

Aluminum valve cover + iron block + 15 years of heat = You probably need to have that valve cover resurfaced or replaced, They're prone to warping, and no gasket will stop the leaks.

I had mine done for about 15 bucks.



...and stay away from the dealership. Their priority is to get you to return and spend more money. They give absolutely 0 s**** if your problem is fixed.

 

[pcb]

... I do everything myself now, unless it is something that requires special equipment that would be very expensive to get like a tire machine or an alignment rack.

I made my own alignment rack...

Close enough and it works great, just takes a bit of time... (It doesn't do caster or camber though..)



+2mm toe in,... front and back.

 

[minkushunter]

I made my own alignment rack...

Close enough and it works great, just takes a bit of time... (It doesn't do caster or camber though..)



+2mm toe in,... front and back.

I take my cars for alignments at a local chain.

Lifetime alignment for $150, the best part is that they have a window looking into the bays with the alignment rack, so I can look at almost anything they are doing.

I always ask them politely not to mess with anything that is not wheel alignment related, like their fluid checks, and 100 point inspections. You never know what they might do to your car during those checks. It is kind of sad that I don't trust them, as I am sure there are plenty of honest mechanics, but I have been burned too many times.

 

[pcb]

... the best part is that they have a window looking into the bays with the alignment rack, so I can look at almost anything they are doing.

I wonder if there are any mechanics willing to put up multiple cameras in their shop and broadcast to the internet, in realtime, everything they do ???

Like when you drop your child off at day care ??

 

[Riot_Polizei]

******* dealers man, my family's never had a good time with their mechanics either.

Hope this gets sorted out soon!

 

[Gabe710]

Thanks all for the responses! I just picked up the car again and it seems everything is fine. I am gonna try to drive it for a while and make sure everything seems sorted out. Needless to say, 3 trips to the dealership in the last week is not how I wanted to start my summer break.

 

[Gabe710]

They probably didn't put silicone on the corners of the gasket like you're supposed to.
Even if you use a new gasket, you're supposed to use silicone.



The oil maybe dripping all over your new T-belt...

Is there a way to check the TB for oil without taking the valve cover and other covers off?

 

[pcb]

No,... You have to at least take the valve cover off to see it.

That's not too big of a job.

 

[Gabe710]

I want to paint it anyway, might just do it sooner and check the timing belt.
What are the consequences of oil on it? and will it need to be replaced or cleaned?

 

[pcb]

I'm pretty sure Mazda recommends replacing the T-belt if it becomes contaminated with oil or rad fluid.

That may be a bit overkill but I'm not sure ??

Maybe someone else has an opinion on that.

 

[Gabe710]

I'm pretty sure Mazda recommends replacing the T-belt if it becomes contaminated with oil or rad fluid.

That may be a bit overkill but I'm not sure ??

Maybe someone else has an opinion on that.

at this rate, I do not want that dealership touching my car again lol at that point I'd get a refund and try to do it myself

 

[pcb]

Did you ever get your T-belt timing corrected ??

 

[Gabe710]

I dropped it back off and they replaced the valve cover gasket (should have been done in the first place IMO) but the car runs a little rough when it wants (if I'm at a light the rpms will jump a few hundred and then jump up and stable itself at like ~800). I asked if they checked it, and they said it was fine, but I know they didn't check.
I'm starting to think there's a massive vacuum leak, so whenever I get the chance I'll look around, but for now, the car is drivable. Thanks for everything, but one more thing!
Do you happen to have a diagram of all of the vacuum lines running through the car?

 

[pcb]

An easy way to check for a vacuum leak is to spray around the engine compartment with carb cleaner. If the rpms go up, there is a leak.

You may want to clean your IAC,.. It's responsible for idling the engine and can get fouled.


Don't forget about the relearning process the car goes through once your cars battery is disconnected.
It needs to relearn how to idle the car and runs all rough until it gets it figured out.
It takes about 100 miles to get it figured out.

 

[Gabe710]

You are a life saver! I will probably pick up a can of brake clean and seafoam to get everything done later this week.
I'll have to do some research on how to clean and remove the IAC (I don't know how many miles I've put on the car, but it can't be any as I only drive to work and it's like 3 miles each way), but you are a lifesaver with the diagrams. Thank you so much!

 

[pcb]

Your car might be fine. It may only need more time to sort out the idle issue.
Chances are that they disconnected the battery at the dealership,.. You are supposed to.
My car runs like crap after the battery is disconnected. It will stumble and almost stall and the rpms are all over the place.