HiBoost install - Greddy Type-S + BPV (no 56k)
- Thread starter CasopoliS
- Start date
nattyboy513
Member
- :
- 2003 spicy orange MSP
yea for ohio...
Should I reset my ECU? I never unplugged the battery during install.
Also, with my mods....what boost can I safely run while wanting to accelerate as fast as possible (i.e. the track)? I have the HKS EVC III with two settings for boost. Right now under full boost the Digital Boost controller mas reading shows around 8.0 psi. That is while on setting "A". This is my everyday driving setting, but I never use all of my boost. Average acceleration might use 6psi if I had to guess. So what should I set setting "B" to? Do I just turn the "B knob" up on the HKS and drive it under full boost and see what my max value reads as...then adjust accordingly? Anyway....thanks for the help.
Also, with my mods....what boost can I safely run while wanting to accelerate as fast as possible (i.e. the track)? I have the HKS EVC III with two settings for boost. Right now under full boost the Digital Boost controller mas reading shows around 8.0 psi. That is while on setting "A". This is my everyday driving setting, but I never use all of my boost. Average acceleration might use 6psi if I had to guess. So what should I set setting "B" to? Do I just turn the "B knob" up on the HKS and drive it under full boost and see what my max value reads as...then adjust accordingly? Anyway....thanks for the help.
Yes you should reset the ECU. Any time you make a change to the engine to add air or fuel, you must reset the ECU. Hiboost says 12psi is safe, but I would say 10psi. I was at 12psi and I blew my engine. If you have upgraded the exhaust 12psi should be ok. If you have exhaust system, no higher than 10psi.
hello2000 said:
I will probably go 10 just to be safe. I want to see if it pulls. Right now I am investigating a deep-sounding clunk around 3000 RPM while accelerating. It almost sounds as if my intake is choaking....its doesnt sound like metal on metal or any other physical clunk. It is quiet but noticable with no radio. Happens only so often.
muohio said:I'm so glad everything worked out for you. You got a good deal on the kit
Thank you. The Large "U" pipe was lined with rusty material which was said to be from the chroming process. Some say it was becuase of the mild steel used, rusting early. Other than that, the kit was great. Trying to tune the Greddy, still get gobble sometimes....Greddy too tight I think. Once I do that and put a grill in front of my FMIC then I will be ok!
raku said:
OH.......you need much more than that. Do not scratch it with sandpaper. A grinding wheel is like a motor with axels on each end. I call it this.....but I think it is called a bench grinder. See attached picture for a bench grinder with buffing wheels on them. Get dense buffing wheels. This is all you need. It does not sand or scratch it. You can get buffing compound in like a bar that looks like a large bar of soap. After you buff the heatsheild, press compond on the wheel and buff again. Hope this helps.
Attachments
Most newer sc's have a clutch to disengage them while cruising to increase mileage. People have also been putting on a set of LS6 heads and cam and seeing about a 70whp increase for around $2k. I'm more worried about making it through winter alive (confused)CasopoliS said:
