That's a steal, good job! Some LSDs have failed over the years(not likely on stock power), but the LSD really makes the car batter. Definitely use the MSP trans and clutch if you can, and stock MSP axles are beefier than regular protege ones too.
Bummer, that's some bad luck. Yeah there are no aftermarket radiators for the MSP, you can downgrade to a regular protege one and add an FMIC or get one from Mazda for ~300$. The part number is RF3F15200C.
For the most part, the blocks are the same. If you're going to take your engine and drop it in (best idea) you'll need to add the oil cooler, and turbo parts to it. The MSPs all had ABS and they use the wheel speed sensors for vehicle speed/speedo, whereas regular proteges used a gear on the...
Yep, they were probably burned out. US federal vehicle lighting regulations require illuminated amber and red lamps paired with reflex reflectors on the front and rear ends of the car, the CA law is basically a duplicate of FMVS108 with some small changes.
All P5s had combined reflex reflectors and amber side marker lamps on the front bumper in N America(sedans had these incorporated into the headlamps). In 2003, turn signals were also added to the front fenders.
If the manifold is stock, it's likely cracked. You can easily check it by removing the heat shield bolts (3) and then wiggling the shield off. Soak the bolts with some penetrating fluid or WD40 first and let it sit.
Welcome! The MSP section isn't as active as when the cars were newer, but there's tons of info on here.
My 03.5 just clocked over 140K and i'm still on the factory LSD. If you're planning on keeping it stock or near stock, stop worrying and drive it.
Stock they do run rich, I've had a...
I can't tell if you've got the accessory belts on or not from the video. First, take off the PS and AC belt and start the engine. If the noise doesn't go away take the WP and alternator belt off next. If the noise is still there take the upper and lower timing covers off and check your timing...
Well, it wasn't my water pump bearing...
Looks like the timing tensioner bolt failed or backed out. Luckily I was able to chase the threads in the block, hoping it's a solid fix. Replacement bolt will get Loctite for good measure.