Recent content by lakersfan1

s*** yeah, that's too much. It only took me 30 minutes to do mine once I figured out how to do it. No mechanic is worth $500/hr. The quote you're getting is probably book time based on formal book procedure, which involves complete removal of the subframe to remove the whole bar. You don't need...

The code will clear itself from memory after several drive cycles.

If the plugs are only 8,000 miles old, there is no way the gap is out of spec enough to cause a CEL already unless the electrode completely fell off ..... in which case it's WAAAAYYY out of spec. I'd just pull all four plugs, make sure they're structurally sound. Put them back in and make sure...

No. You're going to leave the sleeve in place and burn or drill the rubber out. The sleeve remains in place. Then you need to clean the surface with a wire wheel until all the rubber is gone. Also need to save the metal center piece and clean all the rubber off it till it's raw metal as well...

What do you mean 'release this for the Mz5'? There is no strut/shock on the market that is ONLY for the Mazda5. If it works on the 3, it works on the 5.

IF you don't mind wasting extra fluid and still leaving about 25% (68% old fluid each flush, so .68^3) of the old fluid in after 3 cycles of drain and fills. It's more work in the end, though, for less effectiveness.

Yep. Replaced mine at 36K miles. It's a Mazda3 with an extra 500 lbs in the back. That's why this is the only car I've ever seen with larger diameter rears than fronts.

Yes. I know. That was the one time in the last decade I went to the dealer for non-warranty work. I rationalized it was the dead of winter, and I had tax refund money, so why not. I usually look to EBC or offerings at Tire Rack for rotors and pads.

Where you disconnect the cooler line, one terminus sucks and the other blows. You want clear tubing on the blow end so you can see the color of the outgoing fluid.

Except that car manufacturers (not just Mazda) and OEM aftermarket have migrated most rotor manufacturing from US and Europe to China, where the quality of steel itself lends itself to warping. There is no "design" involved in rotors. It's a hunk of metal in a certain shape and diameter. There's...

Personally, I'd rather have the machined rotors vs. new ones unless the hub area is substantially rusted. Once warped, it is unlikely the metal will deform further significantly. Anyways, I'd dare guess all the car brands are pinching pennies with warranty repairs given the current economy...

Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid is Mazda ATF-MV rated. No need to waste all that fluid redoing a drain and fill over and over. A flush doesn't require a machine. Just need to pull a tube from the ATF cooler, put an extra section of tubing on the other end. The...

Keep in mind these 12V sockets are supplied with a tiny little 16AGU positive wire. They can't handle a crap load of sustained power. Because it's DC power, length plays alot into the power handling, so the front socket would be capable of more sustained power handling than the rear. I would...

I used 9.5127G. Had to use the stock bracket, though, which is narrower than the Energy bushing. The bar has tabs on the end to keep the bar centered that won't allow wider bracket. The Energy bushings are offset inward in this configuration, but it's snug and works out fine with the old brackets.

It's not alot of labor to just change the bushings. You just have to do it blind by feel to do it the easy way. Took me less than a half-hour once I got a tool in there with enough leverage to break the bolt. Otherwise, you're talking about dropping the subframe, which is too much a PITA.