What have you done to your P5 today?

Update time!

What I thought was the noise of a grenaded transmission from me driving like an absolute jackass turned out to be a bad cat! Now, I've got the option of gutting the cat or getting a new one. I'm leaning towards new cat because I do not want this rice rocket getting any louder than it already is, but let me know your opinions on it.

And here's a bonus: A photo of the undercarriage in my rusty, 18yr old New England Protege5 . I told y'all it was rusty!
 

Attachments

  • 20210222_115622.jpg
    20210222_115622.jpg
    192.7 KB · Views: 111
Update time!

What I thought was the noise of a grenaded transmission from me driving like an absolute jackass turned out to be a bad cat! Now, I've got the option of gutting the cat or getting a new one. I'm leaning towards new cat because I do not want this rice rocket getting any louder than it already is, but let me know your opinions on it.

And here's a bonus: A photo of the undercarriage in my rusty, 18yr old New England Protege5 . I told y'all it was rusty!
Thats cute, you think your p5 is rusty :)
 
Having my cat gutted by my mechanic, because I do not have $215 to pay for a new cat plus labor. And who knows, maybe I'll like it how it sounds + the added performance of a gutted cat.
 
Having my cat gutted by my mechanic, because I do not have $215 to pay for a new cat plus labor. And who knows, maybe I'll like it how it sounds + the added performance of a gutted cat.
Probably not much HP, but it might help your throttle response by letting it breath better. More responsive throttle = more fun to drive.
 
Done a lot today for Nezuko:

-Used Injen cold air intake came it. I bought a K&N conical filter replacement and installed seamlessly. I was thinking about the coolant reservoir relocation as my used intake didn't came with the relocation bracket. I do not like hacking into original parts but I just cut the factory intake bracket. Turned out well and the relocated reservoir is secured properly.

20210226_125731.jpg

20210226_125757.jpg


-Installed Lamin-X yellow fog covers. I really like the look; the front pops more:
20210226_133835.jpg


-Installed Crux bluetooth interface. Sound is much more louder and cleaner compared to bluetooth via radio frequency. Also installed the intermittent wiper upgrade off a 2005 Mazda6. Works as advertised.
20210226_173017.jpg
 
no codes thus far. Unclipped the connector to switch, threw a 15A fuse in its place, put car in neutral, starts right up. Drives perfect, idles as it did before, zero difference except I can just lean into car and turn key without having to put a foot on the clutch. From what I can gather with the switch behind the clutch pedal, it is just a momentary SPST switch which just needs to have clutch pedal pushed in to complete the circuit in order to start the car.

And just for funsies i ran the torque app with my obd2 adapter and no pending

Fz0yDEP.jpg
@reut1 Hey, my switch is going bad (It was already repaired by an electrician, but it has problems again). I was wondering if you haven't had any problems so far with the fuse..?
 
*need to do a better job taking photos *

Finally installed a missing side skirt on the driver side.

Worked on getting some dents pulled on the driver side using suction cups and boiling water. It works but couldn't get all the dents out.

In the process of dent removal I must have knocked something loose inside the door and now there's a strange metal rattling sound. Will need to take the door trim apart to investigate.

one of the headlight bulb went out- went to a local automotive store without doing my research and blindly trusted the associate's recommendation. Turns out it's the wrong bulb. Back to the store I go.
 
Took it for a spin around the beach! The trans might be on it's way out, so I decided that I wanted some beach pics before I part with it.
20210308_105315.jpg
20210308_105339.jpg
 
one of the headlight bulb went out- went to a local automotive store without doing my research and blindly trusted the associate's recommendation. Turns out it's the wrong bulb. Back to the store I go.
The low beam bulbs have a plastic bulb socket on them.

You may have the right bulb.


20210309_071851.jpg
20210309_071926.jpg
 
Good looking out though because I had no idea what that socket was when I first pulled it out!!

When I changed my first bulb, I did it in the parking lot of the auto parts store and threw the old bulb and socket in the garbage can.
I had to dig it out of the garbage after I tried to install the new bulb.
I thought the socket was part of the bulb.
 
Yea. the one they sold me was just a tad too big to fit into the socket. Went it and got the right part.

You probably had a bulb for the sedan.
My parts car had the wrong bulb installed and it wasn't locked in place. It was too big like you said, and wouldn't clip in.
It plugs right into the electrical connector if you don't use the adapter.

I don't know if it's the high or low beam that illuminates if you plug in the sedan bulb?
 
@reut1 Hey, my switch is going bad (It was already repaired by an electrician, but it has problems again). I was wondering if you haven't had any problems so far with the fuse..?
no issues so far! I havent driven the car in a few weeks but up til that point still no issues with using a fuse in place of the clutch safety switch. As long as your connector is good, putting the fuse in there should be fine.
 
no codes thus far. Unclipped the connector to switch, threw a 15A fuse in its place, put car in neutral, starts right up. Drives perfect, idles as it did before, zero difference except I can just lean into car and turn key without having to put a foot on the clutch. From what I can gather with the switch behind the clutch pedal, it is just a momentary SPST switch which just needs to have clutch pedal pushed in to complete the circuit in order to start the car.

And just for funsies i ran the torque app with my obd2 adapter and no pending

Fz0yDEP.jpg

Yes,
I found out after my post that there are two switches on the clutch pedal.

The one for the starter interlock switch is just a simple switch that can be bypassed with a fuse.

The second switch is to "talk" to the ECU and cruise control unit.
If that switch goes bad, you will have to replace it or your car will throw codes.
 
Yes,
I found out after my post that there are two switches on the clutch pedal.

The one for the starter interlock switch is just a simple switch that can be bypassed with a fuse.

The second switch is to "talk" to the ECU and cruise control unit.
If that switch goes bad, you will have to replace it or your car will throw codes.
Yup. That switch on back side of clutch pedal is the one I am referring to. The one up in front I left alone. My cruise control doesnt work anymore, but there are no codes and I don’t care.
 
no issues so far! I havent driven the car in a few weeks but up til that point still no issues with using a fuse in place of the clutch safety switch. As long as your connector is good, putting the fuse in there should be fine.
Thanks for your response, as I wasn't able to find a new switch I think I'll go with the fuse instead.
 
was nice over winter to not need to get into car to start it, so i could let it warm up while clearing snow off

I'd be afraid to do it because I know I'd forget to put it in neutral before starting it and my car would run me over then drive into the side of my house. Lol
 
Back