What have you done to your P5 today?

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
My car has no cat so I'm stuck with a straight pipe all the way from the headers back to my muffler. But I actually don't mind it. Sounds better than a VQ in my opinion! Unfortunately for us, some FS motors consume just as much oil as a VQ. Thankfully mine doesn't seem to be in that list.
I need to do the math on how much oil my FS actually consumes. It's certainly not an insignificant amount. I know it's a common issue and I always keep it topped off, but I can't help but wonder if I'm going to start hearing a bad noise one of these days. Cold starts after sitting a while already make me nervous with all the clattering from my valves which need adjustment. I love my car but I wish Mazda made engines like Honda did in the 2000s.
 

RPRP5

2002 Mazda Protege5
I need to do the math on how much oil my FS actually consumes. It's certainly not an insignificant amount. I know it's a common issue and I always keep it topped off, but I can't help but wonder if I'm going to start hearing a bad noise one of these days. Cold starts after sitting a while already make me nervous with all the clattering from my valves which need adjustment. I love my car but I wish Mazda made engines like Honda did in the 2000s.
Our engines are also known for lifter ticking, which sometimes does happen with mine, especially when it's cold. And hey, can't ask much from Mazda's senioritis period under FoMoCo. At least a couple of our cars make it to high mileage if they're well taken care of.
 
:
03 p5, 92 miata
Our engines are also known for lifter ticking, which sometimes does happen with mine, especially when it's cold. And hey, can't ask much from Mazda's senioritis period under FoMoCo. At least a couple of our cars make it to high mileage if they're well taken care of.
My 260k p5 has no lifter tick and an incredibly quiet motor at oil. Then my 121k 92 miata has all the lifter tick in the world.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
My 260k p5 has no lifter tick and an incredibly quiet motor at oil. Then my 121k 92 miata has all the lifter tick in the world.
I had a mechanic friend take a look when I first bought it and he suggested doing a valve adjustment at some point. Not sure how to do it though. Who knows, I could also be hearing the VICS/VTCS system on cold starts. Sometimes it almost starts to sound like slight rod knock for a minute, but it's been like that since I bought it and I've never had other issues. Oh, and it only has 160k.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Back to stock. Yay!!
So much nicer to drive on the highway.

IMG_20210427_132855958.jpg


Definitely time for a wash though....
 

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03 p5, 92 miata
Stock muffler, de-catted is the way to go. Nice tone, nice volume, not too obnoxious unless you go WOT at every chance you get.

For me its stock muffler, OBX header, stock 2nd cat, and an ebay short ram intake with k&n filter (mainly because my stock airbox developed a crack and it was easier to "upgrade"
 
-Last Night - for son's recent $750- 2003 P5 purchase, I removed and replaced both rear struts at 155K miles.
Driver's side was making "thunking" noises when hitting bumps and when pushing down on left rear car body.

-Struts purchased are Duralast struts from Autozone.
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822L
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822R

--Maybe not the best and definitely not the cheapest but pressed for time.
--Also didn't know I could have ordered them online and saved 20% with a discount code and next day delivery. 😒
___

STRUTS
-Before removing the struts, I spray-painted the bolts, the struts outer outline, and empty hole of the lower strut mount against the spindles (didn't have a Sharpie) to verify and maintain the new strut's alignment.

-The old struts had a super thin transparency paper plastic "strut mount gasket" installed on the top of the strut and between the wheel-well body to act as some kind of cheap (my guess) vibration isolation damper.

-I used that clear plastic gasket to make my own gasket using foil-backed rubberized "peel-and-stick" waterproofing membrane material, (stuff normally used on roof valleys and edges, and when installing exterior doors and windows) - at least twice the thickness of that plastic gasket) and installed it (stuck) it on the top of the new strut as a vibration (noise) damper.

-Why - Because I had a 2000 Maxima that had no strut mount gaskets at all and it was noisy as hell until I pre-fabricated and installed some improvised gaskets (back then used regular general purpose gasket material and they worked well).

--FYI - Mazda dealerships sell strut mount gaskets for a few other Mazda models including the P5 for about $2.50 plus shipping. Below is a link to a Mazda dealership where you can find them and other parts.
2003 Mazda P5 Strut Mount Gaskets

-I will test drive the car later today and report back how the struts sound and work after installing new brake pads all around (rotors good), Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting). 🤞
 

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BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
-Last Night - for son's recent $750- 2003 P5 purchase, I removed and replaced both rear struts at 155K miles.
Driver's side was making "thunking" noises when hitting bumps and when pushing down on left rear car body.

-Struts purchased are Duralast struts from Autozone.
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822L
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822R

--Maybe not the best and definitely not the cheapest but pressed for time.
--Also didn't know I could have ordered them online and saved 20% with a discount code and next day delivery. 😒
___

STRUTS
-Before removing the struts, I spray-painted the bolts, the struts outer outline, and empty hole of the lower strut mount against the spindles (didn't have a Sharpie) to verify and maintain the new strut's alignment.

-The old struts had a super thin transparency paper plastic "strut mount gasket" installed on the top of the strut and between the wheel-well body to act as some kind of cheap (my guess) vibration isolation damper.

-I used that clear plastic gasket to make my own gasket using foil-backed rubberized "peel-and-stick" waterproofing membrane material, (stuff normally used on roof valleys and edges, and when installing exterior doors and windows) - at least twice the thickness of that plastic gasket) and installed it (stuck) it on the top of the new strut as a vibration (noise) damper.

-Why - Because I had a 2000 Maxima that had no strut mount gaskets at all and it was noisy as hell until I pre-fabricated and installed some improvised gaskets (back then used regular general purpose gasket material and they worked well).

--FYI - Mazda dealerships sell strut mount gaskets for a few other Mazda models including the P5 for about $2.50 plus shipping. Below is a link to a Mazda dealership where you can find them and other parts.
2003 Mazda P5 Strut Mount Gaskets

-I will test drive the car later today and report back how the struts sound and work after installing new brake pads all around (rotors good), Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting). 🤞
Very cool, tj4fa2003P5! A $750 Protege5 sounds like a bargain if the engine and trans is good and it just needs work on the suspension and brakes. Does the car have 155k or is that just the struts? You should post some photos too.
Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting). 🤞
Oh cool, please do let us know how the shifter mods go! I installed the same combo of bushings/SS about a year ago but I've had tons of problems with it rattling and being too notchy. My experience does not seem to represent that of most people's though, and I'm beginning to think I have something wrong or a defect. Would love to hear your experience once installed.
 

RPRP5

2002 Mazda Protege5
-Last Night - for son's recent $750- 2003 P5 purchase, I removed and replaced both rear struts at 155K miles.
Driver's side was making "thunking" noises when hitting bumps and when pushing down on left rear car body.

-Struts purchased are Duralast struts from Autozone.
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822L
Duralast Loaded Strut Assembly LS53-90822R

--Maybe not the best and definitely not the cheapest but pressed for time.
--Also didn't know I could have ordered them online and saved 20% with a discount code and next day delivery. 😒
___

STRUTS
-Before removing the struts, I spray-painted the bolts, the struts outer outline, and empty hole of the lower strut mount against the spindles (didn't have a Sharpie) to verify and maintain the new strut's alignment.

-The old struts had a super thin transparency paper plastic "strut mount gasket" installed on the top of the strut and between the wheel-well body to act as some kind of cheap (my guess) vibration isolation damper.

-I used that clear plastic gasket to make my own gasket using foil-backed rubberized "peel-and-stick" waterproofing membrane material, (stuff normally used on roof valleys and edges, and when installing exterior doors and windows) - at least twice the thickness of that plastic gasket) and installed it (stuck) it on the top of the new strut as a vibration (noise) damper.

-Why - Because I had a 2000 Maxima that had no strut mount gaskets at all and it was noisy as hell until I pre-fabricated and installed some improvised gaskets (back then used regular general purpose gasket material and they worked well).

--FYI - Mazda dealerships sell strut mount gaskets for a few other Mazda models including the P5 for about $2.50 plus shipping. Below is a link to a Mazda dealership where you can find them and other parts.
2003 Mazda P5 Strut Mount Gaskets

-I will test drive the car later today and report back how the struts sound and work after installing new brake pads all around (rotors good), Exile shift linkage bushings, and a Megan short (throw) shifter today (weather permitting). 🤞
$750 for a P5 with 155k? Damn, that's a bargain.
 

RPRP5

2002 Mazda Protege5
Right?? And that's why I asked about pictures. If it's mechanically decent with that mileage, there must be something else wrong, or it was just a great deal.
Mine was $1500, and it's got the rustiest subframe I've ever seen in a car, plus the rust issues on the body, and the paint fade. And the salvage title. (Yeah, my mom got ripped off big time on this one lol)
 
:
03 p5, 92 miata
Mine was $1500, and it's got the rustiest subframe I've ever seen in a car, plus the rust issues on the body, and the paint fade. And the salvage title. (Yeah, my mom got ripped off big time on this one lol)

I so badly want our rust buckets to hang out together.

Mine was $9k back in 2009 with 75k miles on it, manual, stock, no rust. I still think I did good even though I got it from a used car dealer. Everything else private party after that one!
 

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