What have you done to your P5 today?

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
I did it. I freakin did it.
I successfully replaced my rear motor mount.
I was able to do it without removing my intake manifold or throttlebody, in the span of about 4-5 hours.

It went about as well as I think it could have. Bought the car over a year ago with the mount being shot, and I definitely convinced myself that it was going to be the worst thing in the flippin universe to replace, having read a lot of stuff about it on here. It was definitely hard, but absolutely worth the work.

I used $17 in low quality Harbor Freight extensions and u-joints, which surprisingly did the job. Ironically, the only casualty was my Craftsman ratchet (RIP) which I admittedly put too much torque on while trying to break the nuts loose. Oh, and my hands which got pretty banged up. I replaced the OEM mount with another OEM mount which I filled with some PU sealant (40 duro I think).

I might make a guide on how I did mine, if it's helpful to anybody. I am inspired to the point that I want to share my success story and inspire other Protege owners to tackle this challenge and restore smooth driving to their cars. Lol 😁
 
:
2003 protege 5
Awesome! Sounds like how i did mine too. Hows it feel with that rear mount filled? Mine has 60a liquid urethane and it has a little vibration but ive got the sides with awr inserts and front has a rr insert. I feel it at idle but passengers dont really notice. Comforting knowing itll last a very long time if ive ever gotta do it again.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Awesome! Sounds like how i did mine too. Hows it feel with that rear mount filled? Mine has 60a liquid urethane and it has a little vibration but ive got the sides with awr inserts and front has a rr insert. I feel it at idle but passengers dont really notice. Comforting knowing itll last a very long time if ive ever gotta do it again.
Yeah, it feels a lot better but there is still some bucking in 1st and 2nd gears while coasting off/on throttle, as well as after some shifts, which still bothers me. No cabin vibrations at all though. It seems like the polyurethane I filled it with was pretty mild in 'firmness' so i'm not sure if its doing much. I have an AWR passenger mount insert installed, and also had the transmission insert installed before, but removed it while swapping the rear mount because the vibrations were insane. My front mount is OEM and I change it about a year ago - wondering what would happen if I filled it with polyurethane too, maybe higher stiffness. It's easy to get to for a swap.

Any ideas on how to further reduce that last bit of 'buck' without introducing new vibrations? I really don't care as much about instant torque and wheel hop, just want a smooth drive.

Edit: I should mention that I used Loctite PL-S40 to fill the mount. I realized after doing it that there are probably better options but what's done is done.
 
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2003 protege 5
The front and rear are the roll mounts so if one is filled and the other isnt it might still move/roll. Filling the front shouldnt add any vibes. The rear is the worst for vibes. My front inserts are 90ish hardness and i barely felt it. Also, is the rear completly dried? The outer edge might look dry but inside could still be soft. Ive read where it could take weeks for window weld to fully cure. Not sure about the locktite tho.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
The front and rear are the roll mounts so if one is filled and the other isnt it might still move/roll. Filling the front shouldnt add any vibes. The rear is the worst for vibes. My front inserts are 90ish hardness and i barely felt it.
Logically, this makes total sense, thank you pointing it out! It would be cheaper to fill the current mount, but it wouldn't have enough time to dry properly (since the car is my daily), so I might just buy another one to fill. I've heard bad things about non-OEM mounts, but they're much cheaper than OEM and logically, I don't think vibration would be as much of an issue for the front mount as for the rear one (right?)

Also, is the rear completly dried? The outer edge might look dry but inside could still be soft. Ive read where it could take weeks for window weld to fully cure. Not sure about the locktite tho.
Good point, and something I actually thought about a good bit. I filled my old rear mount a few months ago while it was still in the car, and I even left it sitting and jacked up for a week. The stuff eventually squished out after some amount of driving, and didn't help much. I had already bought the new OEM mount at that point and I filled it at the same time, so it had been sitting for a good few months before I installed it on Mon.

Old vs New mount (yes, the white Loctite polyurethane is ugly 😛)
IMG_20201012_160114731.jpg
 
:
2003 protege 5
I used an aftermarket in the rear before i filled one. It sagged after a few months resting on the bottom of the mount causing vibes. I got another dea mount and filled that one. Once its filled it cant sag lol. My front i barely felt with 90 duro inserts. Even with the awr sides it was minimal. But when i filled the rear with 60a i noticed the vibes. My passengers dont notice it but i remember how it felt stock so i know. I think filling another front will help and you prob wont even notice more vibes than now.
Did you reinstall the trans mount insert? If not... try that and see how it does with the bucking
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Yes, the general consensus I saw was that OEM is best for at least the rear motor mount. I'm glad I went with OEM (I actually bought one new off eBay for $60 shipped, they still have 4 available).

I know AWR sells a pretty serious aftermarket front mount, but I haven't heard of anybody selling inserts for the front mount. Inserts would be nice and would save me some time and work. Right now, I'm looking at $10-$15 for new cheapo mount on RockAuto plus $10-$25 for more polyurethane sealant (if my old tube has gone bad or I want to try a firmer duro - maybe 3M window weld?)

I ran the transmission mount insert for 2-3 weeks and it helped somewhat overall, but the car still bucked. I removed it when I replaced my rear mount, because the cabin vibrations were really bad. I am holding onto it but not sure I want to reinstall. Maybe will try it again once I take care of the front mount. I am easily bothered by cabin vibrations and just not sure if it's worth the compromise for better driving feel.
 
:
2003 protege 5
My front has inserts. I emailed rr racing for mine and it is stiff. I had a rear insert too and it was way too stiff. Like the dash was gonna fall off! I pulled it after a week. Awr are pretty soft inserts in comparison to that. Id say if your rear is like a 40a urethane it should be similar to the awr? Might be worth it to do the locktite up front too and keep it solid but soft if that makes sense? The engine will still rock a bit but shouldnt buck. And your vibes should be fairly minimal with the softer urethane. You could always fill the current front with window weld when you swap in the locktite filled one in and if its too soft after a week or 2 replace the locktite filled with the window weld and see if it works better or not?
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
I think that's an excellent idea all around. If you think a soft urethane in the front mount would be best, I'll give that a try first and see how it goes. I think the Loctite PL-S40 I have is a 40A hardness, and I've heard that Window Weld is something like 70A. Not sure what other options are out there.
Logically, it probably also makes sense to fill the front mount to increase the lifespan of the rear mount too.
Thanks for the great suggestions @sleeprp5 and I'll make sure to update!
 
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2003 protege 5
I didnt notice any real vibes from my stiff front inserts. However, if vibes are a concern for you perhaps start with the softer urethane and if you arent happy with the results you can try window weld in the other mount and throw it in and see if its any better/worse?
I got my liquid urethane from suspension.com and they have 3 different hardness levels. It dried in a few days but i waited a week for install. Window weld is popular and as long as it cures properly, seems durable. I havent heard alot about locktite or liquid nails options but you can be the test subject for us lol
Also, it is true that after a couple hundred miles the vibes do calm down from what they were when 1st installed so whatever you do give it a little bit to see if it calms to your satisfaction.
 
:
2001 Mazda SP20 323
Stripped the rear interior and seat out of the daily to try and chase a leak that was filling up the spare wheel well. Now it needs a wash to find where the water is coming from!

Ps JDM rear seats are heavy
 

Breeegz

Looking for John Connor
Contributor
:
2003 Protege 5 -- 2016 Ford Expedition
Took the daily for a blat in the hills for the first time in ages, even managed to conquer a few gravel roads!
Still have no rear interior so it was LOUD but also so much fun!

Has anyone told you that your AC vents are on the wrong side of the steering wheel? :sneaky:
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Yay new tires! Everyone says tires are the best bang for the buck purchase, and I completely agree. My old tires were 195/55R16s from a weird brand (Deantire) and they were absolute trash in the wet, to the point where I almost got into multiple accidents.

Costco was having their usual tire sale so I went with a 205/50ZR16 BFGoodrich g-Force Comp-2 A/S. Costco did in-fact install them despite the fact that they aren't the stock size. In terms of performance, I don't have much to compare to, but I highly recommend these tires, and here are some thoughts:
  • They look amazing and are super meaty (for what that's worth). With a 16x6.5 45mm offset wheel, the thick sidewall is close to flush.
  • Dry performance is great, hands down.
  • Wet performance overall is fantastic (compared to my old tires), almost on par with dry performance. No hydroplaning or understeer whatsoever.
  • Grip in general is great. With stock brakes, I can't lock up the tires - wet or dry (at least thus far).
  • On center steering feel and turn-in is more numb, and when swerving at highway speeds, the car rolls and sways more, and takes longer to stabilize (maybe related to tire pressure, or thicker sidewall?)
  • Comfort and smoothness are marginally better.
  • Reviews generally point to road noise a the low point. If anything it is slightly decreased or the same. The P5 is already loud inside, so I think that is a contributing factor.
  • The two remaining unknowns will be tire wear and gas mileage. I get the feeling that it'll be a compromise for both compared to my old setup, but whatever.
If it ever stops raining, I'll grab some photos to post.
 
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2001 Mazda SP20 323
Replaced the rear brake pads today, one caliper had a sticky handbrake lever so one side was worn down to nearly nothing while the other was actually OK

A bit of CRC/WD40 and some swearing got everything working again. Hopefully it'll keep working for awhile.
 
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