What have you done to your MSP today?

Not entirely sure how but the rods are knocking in 1574, motor only has about 45k on it. Going to pull it to install new rod and crank bearings. Probably going to look for a P5 to daily in the mean time, waiting for a clean red or laser blue 5 speed with a sunroof to show up, would also go for a white one. Tired of messing with the MSPs constantly, having one for a weekend toy is one thing but as a daily I need something more reliable.

Also considering getting a speed6, eventually I will probably end up with one. Or maybe a Mustang, I have time to decide.
 
Some time ago, I was having a too much fun, and ended up with a blown sub and a cracked enclosure. DSC08317.jpg

I went the easy way first, and looked for a complete replacement. Eventually, I realized it's an extremely hard to find part. I started during the week, but ended up caught in the rain. I got everything squared away yesterday. The old sub went out with a fight, and left many of the mounting holes useless. I had to grab some anchors from Home Depot. The new one isn't an exact fit, but I was able to reuse most of the original mounting holes. The amp was a quick swap.

So far, it seems to hit as hard as the stock box, but I haven't played with the EQ since reconnecting the battery. I got to use a multimeter, so it was a pretty good day!

I used the Kenwood KFC-XW800F sub and the Kenwood KAC-M3001 amp.
 

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Some time ago, I was having a too much fun, and ended up with a blown sub and a cracked enclosure. View attachment 216280

I went the easy way first, and looked for a complete replacement. Eventually, I realized it's an extremely hard to find part. I started during the week, but ended up caught in the rain. I got everything squared away yesterday. The old sub went out with a fight, and left many of the mounting holes useless. I had to grab some anchors from Home Depot. The new one isn't an exact fit, but I was able to reuse most of the original mounting holes. The amp was a quick swap.

So far, it seems to hit as hard as the stock box, but I haven't played with the EQ since reconnecting the battery. I got to use a multimeter, so it was a pretty good day!

I used the Kenwood KFC-XW800F sub and the Kenwood KAC-M3001 amp.

Looks good! I wish I had a sub rack, but I don't.

What part of MD?
 
Noticed the vacuum was lower in 1574 than normal and it threw a P0171 code. Also noticed the EBC wasn't lowering boost when I turned it down. Checked the WG and the diaphragm was leaking. Unhooked it for now, good thing it has a forged motor or it would have blown the stock rods to smithereens.

It also is still bubbling coolant out the overflow, mainly at idle. Doesn't appear to be overheating. I removed the thermostat, swapped to a massive CS radiator with a different fan and cap, flushed the coolant with fresh distilled water and burped the system. Has to be the water pump.

I rebuilt the head on the stock motor right before the rods started knocking so I think I will go ahead and swap the head over, install the ZE intake and CS exhaust cams, possibly get some hydra cam gears and cut and paint the valve cover. Then install my ZE intake manifold, new water pump and blue gates timing belt/components, Steedspeed mani, low mileage T25 and Forge WGA with new 14psi spring.

And I ordered a vacuum pump that just came in so I can recharge the AC in both cars and fix the leaks.

As for 1574 I ordered new main and rod bearings, will have the crank polished and put it all back together. Probably should have waited to order the bearings until I had the crank out but I have a spare good crank so I should be alright.
 
Oh and I removed the AFC in the forged car and honestly I cannot tell a difference at all without it. At ~16psi it runs perfectly fine on the stock tune, AFRs are even within the proper range.
 
Noticed the vacuum was lower in 1574 than normal and it threw a P0171 code. Also noticed the EBC wasn't lowering boost when I turned it down. Checked the WG and the diaphragm was leaking. Unhooked it for now, good thing it has a forged motor or it would have blown the stock rods to smithereens.

It also is still bubbling coolant out the overflow, mainly at idle. Doesn't appear to be overheating. I removed the thermostat, swapped to a massive CS radiator with a different fan and cap, flushed the coolant with fresh distilled water and burped the system. Has to be the water pump.

I rebuilt the head on the stock motor right before the rods started knocking so I think I will go ahead and swap the head over, install the ZE intake and CS exhaust cams, possibly get some hydra cam gears and cut and paint the valve cover. Then install my ZE intake manifold, new water pump and blue gates timing belt/components, Steedspeed mani, low mileage T25 and Forge WGA with new 14psi spring.

And I ordered a vacuum pump that just came in so I can recharge the AC in both cars and fix the leaks.

As for 1574 I ordered new main and rod bearings, will have the crank polished and put it all back together. Probably should have waited to order the bearings until I had the crank out but I have a spare good crank so I should be alright.
Sounds like you got some nice goodies going in. Any chance we get some pictures sound clip or video after the update to the 1547

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Sure, what do you want to see? The daily is 1574, that one has an FMIC, VTCS delete, SRI and SSFTC but otherwise is mostly stock. That is the one getting the new bearings.

1345 is the built car that I am planning to install the new turbo, Forge WGA, steedspeed, head, ZE and CS cams and ZE IM.

So much work to be done and not much time to do it.
 
Got 2 my BFG rain slicks mounted on the BBSs today, taking the other 2 to be mounted tomorrow. Still planning to remove the old paint and re-do them, but I really want to install them. The tires on my car now are so bald it's dangerous, especially in the rain.
 
Sure, what do you want to see? The daily is 1574, that one has an FMIC, VTCS delete, SRI and SSFTC but otherwise is mostly stock. That is the one getting the new bearings.

1345 is the built car that I am planning to install the new turbo, Forge WGA, steedspeed, head, ZE and CS cams and ZE IM.

So much work to be done and not much time to do it.
Show us the built one after you install everything.

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Oh and I removed the AFC in the forged car and honestly I cannot tell a difference at all without it. At ~16psi it runs perfectly fine on the stock tune, AFRs are even within the proper range.

It's actually quite amazing, right? The car runs so rich from the factory, that it finally, at those levels, starts making acceptable AFRs. I noticed that too. That's when I was running without anything (albeit, at 26psi) and cooked #4 piston, though.
 
Well I got the MSP finally on the road last Thursday..it has seen a bit over 200miles now and is doing well. Have a couple little odds and ends to address, but for how cheap the car was and how it sat for 3 years and I had no idea the condition of the engine it is doing very well. Still need to get tires for the RH wheels, but for now im running the 03 ES wheels I had on my old protege. I also took a 125mile trip with the MSP last friday to go pick up a 03.5 front lip and got that mounted over the weekend.

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Hoping to install some POPE goodies and camber plates over this coming weekend:

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The original T25 with 175k miles. Still runs great and doesn't blow any oil. Planning to get a T28 but I have some other things I need to get first.

Be prepared. T28 is not fun. I threw on a gt2871 myself had to pull fans and radiator (5mins no biggy) biggest pita for t25-t28 will be turbo clearing block and trans, your waterlines both will need to be either carefully rebent and oil return feed will need to be rebent and extended. Be careful with your oil feed fitting get some teflon tape.
 
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The old t25 you can see here above

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Heres a good idea of the clearence im talking about, wish i had better angle but trust me its stuffed in there.

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And here was a photo after install, popped pin hole in old radiator threw in a full aluminum half stack i had laying around, runs much cooler now. Been running 14psi on t28 for quiet awhile. Cold idle a/f bounces 14.7-15.3 warm idle bounces 14.4-14.8 cruise sits around 13.6 wot 10.5
You lose alot of the low end grunt put your ass in the seat but the powerband is much nicer up top. T25 used to spool and be ready about 2500rpm the gt2871 starts pushin about 3800.
 
The old t25 you can see here above


Heres a good idea of the clearence im talking about, wish i had better angle but trust me its stuffed in there.

And here was a photo after install, popped pin hole in old radiator threw in a full aluminum half stack i had laying around, runs much cooler now. Been running 14psi on t28 for quiet awhile. Cold idle a/f bounces 14.7-15.3 warm idle bounces 14.4-14.8 cruise sits around 13.6 wot 10.5
You lose alot of the low end grunt put your ass in the seat but the powerband is much nicer up top. T25 used to spool and be ready about 2500rpm the gt2871 starts pushin about 3800.

Very nice
 
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