What have you done to your MSP today?

If I can recommend anything for that, take your time mocking it up cuz I had to put mine halfway into that bolt boss.

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...s-P5-T-Build&p=5931510&viewfull=1#post5931510

What do you mean by that? I'm sorry, I don't follow. You had to put your WHAT halfway into WHAT? (dunno)

Also, can you send me a link to that oil drain fitting?


that silver almost looks blue? looks good though and no, primer is never optional with any paint project you want to last more than a season. id use an etch primer or epoxy on bare metal.

as for swapping mbsp... all i did on my p5 was drill a 9/16 hole and run a 3/8 npt tap through it. did it in the car even, dropped the pan and just used a ton of grease inside and outside, drilled slow. no problems at all with the fitting and i think it cost me under $10. id almost leave the msp one out as you prob plan to do a engine build? might as well just have that engine all fully assembled on the bench so you dont have to dick around swapping anything later.

just me though. since you will have the trans out its no big deal to swwap the plate, but you have already painted that one all nice and neat =)

In person it doesn't have that hue to it.. it might be the camera. Its the "VHT Brushed Aluminum" It does have a little sparkle in it. It came out better than I hoped it would, so I'm a VHT fan now. lol I didn't use etch primer, unless the VHT primer IS an etchinig primer (I didn't really look) All I know is it is also "High Temp" primer so I figured I'd stick with the same brand.

That is kind of the end goal.. to have two suitable MBSPs, that both have AN 10 fittings on both sides for both oil drains, so swapping crap around is not necessary, like you said. Looks like the stock MSP plate would need a block off if that drain is relocated out from behind the downpipe.

I had an awful return that tan parallel to my downpipe, under the engine and to the rear of my AWR. I'm nor going to use this setup since I now have an MSP OEM MBSP
36e337c1174f02d4f2d70ea8191bd112.jpg

You think its okay being that close to the downpipe? Thats what mine looks like too
 
Installed the new AWR rear MM last night, swapped the oil pickup tube and cleaned up the MBSP/Lower oil pan so I can seal and bolt the lower pan on the forged motor. Lots of bearing material and tiny shavings in the old motor so I took my time cleaning the inside of it out. Will bolt the oil pan on today and finally drop the motor back into the bay. I've had two days off from work this week due to the rain which feels strange since I haven't had a day off in weeks.
 
What do you mean by that? I'm sorry, I don't follow. You had to put your WHAT halfway into WHAT? (dunno)

Also, can you send me a link to that oil drain fitting?

Look at the pic in the link I sent. Closely. Then look at preferios.

The fitting is 3/8npt 45bend and a 3/8npt to 5/8 hose barb put together.
 
Look at the pic in the link I sent. Closely. Then look at preferios.

The fitting is 3/8npt 45bend and a 3/8npt to 5/8 hose barb put together.

Preferios is closer to what I'm gonna do, but he used the factory oil drain fitting on the MBSP.. I'm planning on tapping a M12/1.5 - AN-10 and then running that to the turbo drain, like Preferios... but with a 626 MBSP so I don't have to block the factory MSP drain hole. Clean and proper. Hopefully
 
when i put the msp back togehter i installed the pope downpipe and stock oil return. no problems at all. the silicon tube used can handle quite a lot of heat.
 
The motor is finally in 1345, it's all downhill from here. Going to try to install the ZE intake, accessories, and possibly the Pope DP/turbo today. The rear motor mount hole wouldn't line up so I gave up late last night but I will hopefully be able to get it today, even with a jack and the other mounts loose I couldn't get the damn bolt through
 
I've driven the msp more this week than the last 6 months combined and two issues have surfaced.

1. The heater core is mostly plugged and slowly mixing rust and crud into my coolant and passing the occasional bubble that's causing heating issues. I'm going to have to drain the coolant and aggressively flush the core to clean everything up...

2. The car hates its accessory belts. The PS belt refuses to ride nicely (it was thrown completely off on the highway today) and the alternator belt has a ragged edge that tells me the crank pulley might be the source of the issue. There's only one thing both belts have in common so I have to pull my crank pulley and give it a thorough check over. Maybe its time to get a hydra and see if that cures the issue.

Other than these issues, its fast, fun, and relatively quiet. I'm dialing in the tune and I think I'll see 375 at the wheels at about 19 psi when its all said and done. What could a gt30 and some cams do??? 450-500 at the wheels sounds completely useless but it would be fun to bench race. Its crazy how fast cars have gotten in the last few years. A front driver with over 300 hp was a really fast car 10 years ago. Now unless its 500+ its just a footnote.
 
I've driven the msp more this week than the last 6 months combined and two issues have surfaced.

1. The heater core is mostly plugged and slowly mixing rust and crud into my coolant and passing the occasional bubble that's causing heating issues. I'm going to have to drain the coolant and aggressively flush the core to clean everything up...

2. The car hates its accessory belts. The PS belt refuses to ride nicely (it was thrown completely off on the highway today) and the alternator belt has a ragged edge that tells me the crank pulley might be the source of the issue. There's only one thing both belts have in common so I have to pull my crank pulley and give it a thorough check over. Maybe its time to get a hydra and see if that cures the issue.

Other than these issues, its fast, fun, and relatively quiet. I'm dialing in the tune and I think I'll see 375 at the wheels at about 19 psi when its all said and done. What could a gt30 and some cams do??? 450-500 at the wheels sounds completely useless but it would be fun to bench race. Its crazy how fast cars have gotten in the last few years. A front driver with over 300 hp was a really fast car 10 years ago. Now unless its 500+ its just a footnote.
Indeed sounds like a maga flush is in your future. My old school mechanic told me to forget the over the shelf products and just use Cascade dish washing powder. Running it for a hundred miles or so then flush it real good.

Hydra crank pulley sounds like a nice addition :)

375 sounds like a lot of fun. We're are still waiting to hear what a P.E.P exhaust sounds like.

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I've driven the msp more this week than the last 6 months combined and two issues have surfaced.

1. The heater core is mostly plugged and slowly mixing rust and crud into my coolant and passing the occasional bubble that's causing heating issues. I'm going to have to drain the coolant and aggressively flush the core to clean everything up...

2. The car hates its accessory belts. The PS belt refuses to ride nicely (it was thrown completely off on the highway today) and the alternator belt has a ragged edge that tells me the crank pulley might be the source of the issue. There's only one thing both belts have in common so I have to pull my crank pulley and give it a thorough check over. Maybe its time to get a hydra and see if that cures the issue.

Other than these issues, its fast, fun, and relatively quiet. I'm dialing in the tune and I think I'll see 375 at the wheels at about 19 psi when its all said and done. What could a gt30 and some cams do??? 450-500 at the wheels sounds completely useless but it would be fun to bench race. Its crazy how fast cars have gotten in the last few years. A front driver with over 300 hp was a really fast car 10 years ago. Now unless its 500+ its just a footnote.
What turbo are you running?

I had that issue a few months ago on my old built engine. It would look to be tracking off by one rib or so then eventually work it's way out another rib. Could not find evidence the crank pulley was causing the problem. I even went so far as to considering the the crank walking, but when I tore it down last weekend, the thrust bearings weren't worn excessively. Power steering pump shaft didn't have any in and out movement either. The engine is completely new, but I am reusing my power steering pulley and (new) belt. We'll see if it continues.
 
We're are still waiting to hear what a P.E.P exhaust sounds like.

I'll get some video the next time the car is out. Based on the weather it will probably be at least a few days.

What turbo are you running?

I had that issue a few months ago on my old built engine. It would look to be tracking off by one rib or so then eventually work it's way out another rib. Could not find evidence the crank pulley was causing the problem. I even went so far as to considering the the crank walking, but when I tore it down last weekend, the thrust bearings weren't worn excessively. Power steering pump shaft didn't have any in and out movement either. The engine is completely new, but I am reusing my power steering pulley and (new) belt. We'll see if it continues.

I'm running a disco potato so I'm going to be just about maxing it out at 375 wheel. A gt30 in a t2 frame is increasingly interesting to me.

At least I'm not the only one with the stupid belt walk problem. Mine walked about 2 ribs almost instantly and then stayed put for 450 miles. I've tried every trick I can think of... I'll probably just pull the trigger on the crank pulley. 4 lbs of mass off the crank sounds good and will go nicely with my 11 lb flywheel. The car should rev like mad.

And you're using a Unichip, Tom?

Yep, the q+ - I like a lot of things about it and there's no doubt I could easily run 1000+ cc injectors and fuel just about anything. There are only a couple downsides to it versus a standalone. There's a lot of wiring I would love to dump, but I don't want to stare at a check engine light. I'd also like to go COP with some hotter coils. Aside from that I still have a fully functioning OBDII port, I don't have to tune idle, cold start, hot start, cruise, etc, and the install took 20 minutes rather than the 10 hours I spent building a custom harness for the KL-T swap I did.
 
I'll get some video the next time the car is out. Based on the weather it will probably be at least a few days.



I'm running a disco potato so I'm going to be just about maxing it out at 375 wheel. A gt30 in a t2 frame is increasingly interesting to me.

At least I'm not the only one with the stupid belt walk problem. Mine walked about 2 ribs almost instantly and then stayed put for 450 miles. I've tried every trick I can think of... I'll probably just pull the trigger on the crank pulley. 4 lbs of mass off the crank sounds good and will go nicely with my 11 lb flywheel. The car should rev like mad.



Yep, the q+ - I like a lot of things about it and there's no doubt I could easily run 1000+ cc injectors and fuel just about anything. There are only a couple downsides to it versus a standalone. There's a lot of wiring I would love to dump, but I don't want to stare at a check engine light. I'd also like to go COP with some hotter coils. Aside from that I still have a fully functioning OBDII port, I don't have to tune idle, cold start, hot start, cruise, etc, and the install took 20 minutes rather than the 10 hours I spent building a custom harness for the KL-T swap I did.
With orange virus cracking the ecu. You might be able to dump the extra wiring.

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I just popped over to Hydra's site to order the crank pulley and they're out of stock. Maybe I'll do some CAD, get some stock, and cut one myself. I'd have to buy a broach though. Is anyone else making crank pulleys?
 
oooh cracking the ecu would be fantastic news!


spent some time on the racing harts i brought back from maple ridge. the faces were pretty good but the lips were really mangled. no matter. got them blasted, etched and sealed with surfacer, filled rash and sanded.
i have to say that anyone looking to do wheel repairs or pretty much any kind of precision sanding should steer clear of the rotary tools or die grinders and go straight to a ocilating tool..
i picked up a dremel multi max mm 30-04 whcih had the 3.5 amp motor and made short work of the bondo sanding. WAAAAY easier to handle compared to a rotary tool and gives a nicer flatter finish.

I had a fein at work, but thats a $800 tool vs the $120 dremel heh. save the fein for fancy woodwork lol...
 
I just popped over to Hydra's site to order the crank pulley and they're out of stock. Maybe I'll do some CAD, get some stock, and cut one myself. I'd have to buy a broach though. Is anyone else making crank pulleys?
Guy is still trying to sell his on the parts page. Plus I'm sure they can whip one up

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