What have you done to your MSP today?

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I break stuff.
Contributor
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2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
I removed the oil squirters... Thoughts? Opinions?
 

hornsfan10609

Certified Mazda Tech
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2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
And you are not replacing them? Is that a thing? I have never heard of doing that and certainly wouldn't make my motor the guinea pig. Aren't they there for a reason?
 

Preferio

I break stuff.
Contributor
:
2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
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Jaleik

Contributor
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MSP 03.5
I removed the oil squirters... Thoughts? Opinions?

I was torn with that choice and decided to keep them. I have heard of people not having them with no issues but still.. it makes me feel safer about not spinning a bearing, whether that's just in my head or not I don't know. The oil system isn't that great to begin with.. I guess you know that though :p
 

Preferio

I break stuff.
Contributor
:
2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
Toyota Tundra. Can't wait to get back behind the wheel of something fun though. I miss boost. lol
Put a TRD supercharger on it. We're installing one on a Taco at the shop in a couple of weeks. This old guy, a customer of mine, is buying all his own Christmas presents I guess. We installed aftermarket fog lights, aftermarket exhaust, and some ugly brush guards and side bars. I'm all for the exhaust and TRD supercharger, though!

The 6 parts stopping me from completing my engine rebuild will be here next week.

1) K1 Rod.
2) 4x Wiseco Rings.
3) AWR deep sump hardware.
 
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2002 Mazda Protege 5
I decided to remove my oil squirters as well, main reason I chose it is because the already bad oil system we have. When reading about it, it made sense that with the squirters in you'll be losing oil pressure which is one of our main concerns and the amount of oil coming of the crank would allow enough lubrication to the wrist pins and bearings. And the other upside is that I didn't have to pay for the new ones so I'm not complaining about that.
 

Preferio

I break stuff.
Contributor
:
2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
I decided to remove my oil squirters as well, main reason I chose it is because the already bad oil system we have. When reading about it, it made sense that with the squirters in you'll be losing oil pressure which is one of our main concerns and the amount of oil coming of the crank would allow enough lubrication to the wrist pins and bearings. And the other upside is that I didn't have to pay for the new ones so I'm not complaining about that.
Same reason I decided that too.
 

Velocifero

Wham Bam thank you Ma'am
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VRM MS6, Sunlight Silver MSP
MS6 FTW. I go through my I hate but love my msp phases. when it runs right with no issue I fall in love, but when it wants to act like a PITA. I wanna burn it or drive it off a cliff sometimes. but I know def if I sell or trade in my msp ill get a ms6 GT for sure. heated seats have become a must and having awd is always a good thing haha
I still have my MSP, I love it even though it hasn't been driven in ages and I currently have a MS6 with some modifications as a daily. I love the 6, it just has to be treated like most Mazdas, you can't go too crazy on them with mods before you start to make your own problems. The MSP was a fun car and good to start with, then I wanted a little more grown up car so the mid sized sedan was perfect for me even though I have been eyeing CTS-Vs for the longest time, every time I look at cars I circle back to it and begin figuring out the finances, I'd prefer to get a 2nd gen and recently started thinking about the likes of an IS-F as well... but its lots of cash.
 
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2002 Mazda Protege 5
My only problem with the IS-F is that it was never offered as a manual. I can't imagine having that car and not being able to "really shift". But if I had 55K that I had to spend on a car then the CTS-V coupe would be on my top 5 maybe higher.
 
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2003.5 MazdaSpeed Protege, 2002 Protege 5, 2003 Protege ESGT
may seem like a stupid question for you engine peeps but im not really a super automotive person... do you need to do excess machine work to upgrade the rods? if the innards of the engine are good, can you just drop the pan and support plate and replace them from the bottom?
my engine looks pretty new, i dont plan to make big hp but i dont want my engine to.. lose weight.. Could i swap to k1 or similar aftermarket rods without a absolute teardown?

$500 for k1 rods seems like cheap insurance if nothing else.
 

323

lolmsp lolms3
Moderator
changed oil. had time to check out the corner that was making clunking noises. turns out the endlink's nut was just loose. i thought it came off way too easy. tightened it and went for a drive. noise is all gone. yey for free fixes!

this pos.......
 
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2003.5 MSP Blue #2450, 1995 Nissan 240sx, 1996 Mazda Miata
may seem like a stupid question for you engine peeps but im not really a super automotive person... do you need to do excess machine work to upgrade the rods? if the innards of the engine are good, can you just drop the pan and support plate and replace them from the bottom?
my engine looks pretty new, i dont plan to make big hp but i dont want my engine to.. lose weight.. Could i swap to k1 or similar aftermarket rods without a absolute teardown?

$500 for k1 rods seems like cheap insurance if nothing else.
You can't replace rods w/o re-balancing the reciprocating assembly. To remove the rods, you have to remove the head and oil pan. You COULD take them out of the bottom, but you'd have to remove the crankshaft, and that means removing the transmission.

So basically no. You have to completely rebuild it.
 

Preferio

I break stuff.
Contributor
:
2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
There are ancillary costs to think about, even if you had absolutely no machine work done:
Pistons- $500
Gasket Set- $120
Bearings- $100
Head Bolts- $100
Fluids- $60

Say you're insane and you really want to be cheap: you'd only have to get pistons and reuse everything else, still that's $500. Then when it inevitably flies apart in 218.6 miles, you'll be rebuying rods and pistons.
 
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o0n8

Still have noob questions
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74 Schwinn Varsity, 75 Camaro (Project), 04 6 Wagon
There are ancillary costs to think about, even if you had absolutely no machine work done:
Pistons- $500
Gasket Set- $120
Bearings- $100
Head Bolts- $100
Fluids- $60

Say you're insane and you really want to be cheap: you'd only have to get pistons and reuse everything else, still that's $500. Then when it inevitably flies apart in 218.6 miles, you'll be rebuying rods and pistons.
I love the exact miles
 
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