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What have you done to your Miata today?

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Went out this morning to bed in the new pads. That turned out to be interesting as the pedal was very soft. Had to pump it a couple of times to get it to stiffen up, then the next time I went to brake it was the same. Apparently bleeding was not complete, first time I have had that problem. I was able to get them bedded in.

Back to the house and I put her up on the QuickJack to swap the master cylinders. Had to pull the cowl plate, shock tower brace, cruise control actuator and 'charger inlet piping off to make things easier. The old master cylinder came out without too much trouble, then it was in to the cabin to remove the booster nuts. I had to remove the ECU in order to access those, that made it pretty simple with using a couple of extensions and a universal. First thing to remove is the connection pin between the brake pedal and booster yoke:



There are four nuts, the lower left one is shown in this picture:



Once the booster is out you will see a sort of gasket on there:



I think this is probably like the isolators on the shock top hats to minimize noise. I pulled it off and transferred it to the replacement.

There is a lot of info around on the difference between master cylinders and boosters so I won't rehash all of that here. In the interest of making life easy for folks, here are the two boosters to see the differences (Sport booster on the right):



The masters have differences in length where they fit into the booster so you can't really mix and match those. Also the Sport master has an O-ring to seal where it fits into the booster.

One thing that I did was to use the proportioning valve mounting bracket off my 2000. The Sport valve is mounted vertically below the master cylinder, which would have impacted how I run the intake tube. Here is how the stock 2000 unit is mounted:



This meant that it was a little more fiddly getting all my brake lines hooked up, I had to mix and match some of the old lines from my original master but it is done. One word of caution if you do this, be sure not to cross-thread the flare nuts when attaching the brake lines. It may take a bit but better to make sure things are lined up instead of using brute force.

Bleeding will be done tomorrow when I have my helper.
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Spent a big part of the day in the garage, mostly on my back underneath. While I was off doing training I ordered a set of urethane bushings for the steering rack. First order of business was to install those. Well, to try and install them. The passenger side goes on without trouble, but the two on the driver's side are a different story. You have to remove the rack completely in order to replace those (without beating your head against the wall), and I didn't want to go down that rabbit hole at this point. So the passenger side was done and that is it.

Then I tried installing the bigger (1 1/16") front sway with the new bushings and split collars I bought. That didn't work out either. The bushings and their brackets weren't a great fit, and the collars wouldn't clear the relocated radiator brackets (moved back due to my intercooler). So for now the MSM front sway I have been using went back on.

Next I removed the center section of the butterfly brace to see what, if any, change that makes in perceived chassis stiffness. Finally I moved my way along the exhaust to see if I could figure out why it was resonating inside the cabin with the top up. Turned out the 949 rear subframe brace (that I had previously clearanced) was being contacted by the exhaust. Guess the Roadster Sport midpipe is just a little too big back there for it to work. I removed the brace and will see if that was the problem or not.

Final job was bleeding the brakes, once my helper came over. Went round and round a few times, got a lot of air out of the system except for the driver's rear. It didn't seem like anything was coming out to the point where I was concerned that the caliper was faulty. I put my Mityvac on it and sucked for a few minutes until some fluid appeared. That did the trick because afterwards bleeding went normally. At this point I think the problem I had while bedding the pads was a bunch of air in the line to the driver's rear caliper. After everything was back together I moved her over so the wife's car could spend the night in the garage. Brake pedal stayed rock hard so I'm calling that good. I will do the bedding procedure again next time I take her out as I cannot now be certain they were good the first time.
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Had her out and bedded the pads again but it didn't really change how they bite. The battery was basically dead as I mentioned before, charged it several times and would be dead within two days. Searched everywhere but couldn't find the receipt for the damn thing. Thanks to my work log I knew when I had bought it (and from where), so I took it up today to see what could be done. I bought it at O'Reilly's, they scanned the bar code on the battery and cross-referenced it with my phone number. I walked out with a brand new battery, since the last one was less than a year old.

Today I bought something from eBay, I will wait to reveal just what until I have hands-on and can post a picture.
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Finally had weather nice enough to go to C&C (although it was a little too cold to have the top down. I'm an enthusiast, not a masochist). First time running her on the highway after my last round of work. It is quieter inside the cabin, although I feel there is still a little too much reverberation going on. A friend at C&C asked me why the muffler was offset, when I looked I saw it had moved to the left. That is down to the angle of the hanger I installed that was missing off the RB muffler for my year. I'll have to go to a muffler shop to see about having a proper hanger welded on that lines things up.

Cruise didn't work, I figured I had left something undone and sure enough when I checked, I had neglected to put the vacuum hose on the actuator. That fixed that problem. This evening I installed the new brake caliper bleed screw caps I got off Amazon, the new ones have the little tail to keep them on the screw when you are bleeding so you don't misplace them. I also readjusted the rear brakes.

Tomorrow's weather is supposed to be great, but I have already committed to doing the brakes on one of our kids' car. Hoping that won't take too long so I can get some top-down time.
 

bazooka joe

No words
Moderator
Contributor
:
2016 Miata Club, 2014 CX5 Touring, Honda 1976 XL 175
Installed the Fab9Tuning/Versatuner ND tune, very nice! Smoothed out the acceleration and gave me a nice bump in the mid range.
 

Antoine

Administrator
I wonder what sort of power #s an ND would be producing with such a tune and some boltons...I'd imagine the engine is already highly tuned from the factory no..?
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Gave another grandkid (son) a Miata introduction today. Short jaunt to the store but he loved it (he's three).
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Finally stopped sitting on the fence and bought a Battery Tender, that showed up today. Since my wife very rarely drives it since she has her own 'vert now, I needed to do something so I don't have to get a new battery every year.
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
My latest eBay purchase showed up yesterday:





I sat on the fence undecided about this for a while but went ahead and pulled the trigger. More visibility is good, right? I've been trying to obtain a set of mirrors to paint and use for these (you have to drill a hole in the mirror housing to pass the wires through) but so far the used part resellers I've contacted have not responded.
 

CTt3P5

TAD
Contributor
:
2008 MX-5 SE
I like those mirrors Mike! More visibility in a Miata is always better!

This Friday I get the new summer rubber mounted. I have a set of General Gmax RS sitting in the basement just waiting for some action. Inspection showed F & R pads at 4/32nds so I will be shopping for new pads/rotors. More than likely sticking with the Centric as I like them but a 4 piston Wildwood kit from GWR has crossed my mind. Hard to justify the price for a DD though.

Ordered a new DIN surround for my h/u too. The tabs along the top broke and it is no longer flush. I am thinking I didn't stuff all the wires and bits good enough when installing the h/u and the plastic tabs lost their fight to hold on.
 
:
2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
Finally got her out of the garage after about 3 months of winter storage! Took her for a fabulous drive with my wife. Top down. Oh yeah...
 

bazooka joe

No words
Moderator
Contributor
:
2016 Miata Club, 2014 CX5 Touring, Honda 1976 XL 175
I wonder what sort of power #s an ND would be producing with such a tune and some boltons...I'd imagine the engine is already highly tuned from the factory no..?
with the tune, header and exhaust some are seeing 30 HP gains (maybe some E85 too)
I like those mirrors Mike! More visibility in a Miata is always better!

This Friday I get the new summer rubber mounted. I have a set of General Gmax RS sitting in the basement just waiting for some action. Inspection showed F & R pads at 4/32nds so I will be shopping for new pads/rotors. More than likely sticking with the Centric as I like them but a 4 piston Wildwood kit from GWR has crossed my mind. Hard to justify the price for a DD though.

Ordered a new DIN surround for my h/u too. The tabs along the top broke and it is no longer flush. I am thinking I didn't stuff all the wires and bits good enough when installing the h/u and the plastic tabs lost their fight to hold on.
I like the mirrors to Mike!

ya, if you did any track days the “wilwoods”would almost be a must....but they sure look nice behind the wheels! 😉
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Got a few updates on the mirrors but will get to those tomorrow. Today I finally got around to swapping the clock spring with one I bought from SNS at MATG. I am happy to report that has solved my flashing airbag light problem. Now to see how long it lasts...
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
I've been getting mirrors and parts for my marker project. After waiting on resellers I finally heard back from one. Then, I also got a message from someone who had swapped out their mirrors offering his old ones (much cheaper). Only thing was there was no glass. After some research I determined I would still be cheaper than another source so pulled the trigger. Ordered new glass from the dealer, ordered some paint from Automotive Touchup and waited for it all to arrive.

Finally got everything earlier this week. Opened the mirror box to find when they were Plastidipped the interior wasn't covered so that crap was everywhere.



I wanted to try and remove the motor fixture from the interior. This required moving the mirror housing on the base to access the screws. I was not able to physically move the two pieces with just hand power (they are tough to do on the car, off it nearly impossible). I don't have any spanner wrenches so made one up with a couple of pin punches and plier handles:



That worked well, however I needed to move the base in the opposite direction so I could remove the other screw. Didn't pay enough attention, one of the punches moved too far into the base and this happened:



Disappointing. After doing that I figured out I wouldn't be able to remove the interior bits in one piece due to how there is a pivot connecting the base and housing. I don't see any sort of circlip so I'm guessing it's a press fit. I did remove the motor and found something interesting about how the wires are connected. You would expect some sort of connector, but no:





In case you don't know what you are looking at, Mazda used a vamp clamp arrangement.

Next up was cleaning as much of the Plastidip from the interior as I could. Peeled what I could then used BrakeKleen for the rest, like I did on the wife's car's wheels. End result:



Here is a shot of the back of the mirror and the motor showing the four attachment clips that keep it together:



Finally, what I used to glue the broken piece back in:



Once that sets I'll fill in the cracks and prep everything for paint. I'm going to do these one at a time so I don't have too many parts floating around to get confused.
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Thanks Mark!

I've been thinking about my lack of an amp reading when I was checking the car to figure out why my battery was dead, finally got around to checking my meter tonight and sure enough one fuse was blown. Of course with no Radio Shack any more finding a replacement locally is damn near impossible, so Amazon to the rescue once again. Once they show up by Thursday I'll be checking my amp draw with no apparent load again.
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Put her up in the air and bled the brakes using my Motive bleeder. It's been more than a month since I changed over to Sport brakes and I wanted to be sure there weren't any lingering air bubbles.
 

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