What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Chris_Top_Her

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San Antonio, Texas
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'15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I just had a big nail removed and patched a few day ago, for free, at Americas Tire, since they have installed it and they offer this warranty. They also had to balance my tires also for free, due to the bad vibration, that one of the wheels had.
This car is fun and I still like it a lot, but there are just to many issues propping up. Next job, needs new front control arms and the two outer tie rods(all four rubber boots are torn), than of course an alignment.
I have just replaced all four brakes and all four struts/shocks. All this, at 65k miles. I'm seriously thinking about replacing it, but there not much out there what I like. Maybe the Alfa.
it's those shitty corksport springs man, you should get id of them asap. Across the board (mz3/6/cx5) those springs always have bad feedback. If you want "cheap" low get CXracing coilovers; at least you will have a matching shock with those. If you just want springs, H&R don't get as low but they are much better suited for OEM suspension components. Why do you need LCAs?
 
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2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
Oil change yesterday at dealership for my 2017 GT. I get it done every six months with the very low amount of driving I do especially these stay indoor days. Also got the firmware updated. Every other oil change is free with dealer. However, they recommend, as always, wheel alignment for $99 and $70 for cabin filter replacement, which is ridiculous. I declined. I have 13300 miles on vehicle and it would be my third alignment since I bought the CX-5. Arriving today, the cabin filter cost me $8.97 plus tax from Amazon (EPAUTO CPJ6X). It takes more time to empty my glove box than replace the filter.
You only have 13k miles on your CX and it's already had the alignment done twice? Is there a reason for that? Did you hit a curb or did you feel that the alignment was off? Or just because the dealer 'recommended' that you need an alignment?
 
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2017 CX-5 GT
You only have 13k miles on your CX and it's already had the alignment done twice? Is there a reason for that? Did you hit a curb or did you feel that the alignment was off? Or just because the dealer 'recommended' that you need an alignment?
No reason really. The car drove perfectly and I should have been a lot wiser the second time they recommended the alignment. When I bought the car, the promotion was every other service would be a free oil change as long as I owned the car. So, I suppose they are trying to recoup their "losses" by their unnecessary recommendations.
 

tibimakai

San Dimas CA
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USA
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2014 CX-5 Touring
I don't understand, what has the lowering to do, with ball joint boots tearing up?
I have already installed the Koni Yellows, it rides very well, but I don't feel a big difference from the factory ones. I feel mostly the difference, because they are new, most likely.
CS springs are harsh, but if the roads in LA would be better, they would be a perfect spring set. The bad roads make them "bad". Here in LA, specially in the downtown area, you need a Jeep for those roads.
No worries with the springs, I'm researching already for my next car.
 

sm1ke

Work In Progress..
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Canada
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'18 CX-9 Signature
I don't understand, what has the lowering to do, with ball joint boots tearing up?

No worries with the springs, I'm researching already for my next car.
Basically, lowering the vehicle changes the suspension geometry. If you don't account for the change in the suspension geometry, your suspension is put through more abuse than normal. This is a list of cons regarding lowering a car, copied and pasted from another website:

  • Reduction in ride quality. Depending on how much the car has been lowered and the type of springs and shock absorbers used, there will either be a slight or dramatic loss of ride quality. The car will be more jiggly and you’ll notice new bumps in the road – which previously would have been ironed out by your standard suspension doing its job properly.
  • Increased wear and tear. Lowered suspension inherently has less “give” or travel available, meaning your car will hit harder and slam into pot holes or other road imperfections. This increases the chances of damaging your wheels and increases wear on other suspension components. The increased wear and tear also applies to your car’s interior, which will create an ever increasing amount of rattles and creaking noises over time, as the fasteners used to secure components gradually loosen. This will eventually make your vehicle feel ‘older’ than equivalent vehicles that are still riding on standard suspension, potentially impacting resale values.
  • Increased bottoming out. We’ve all seen it – drivers of lowered vehicles entering driveway ramps at ridiculously low speeds and also on angles, in an attempt to reduce the chances of scraping the front bumper, rear bumper or underside along the ground. Contact with the ground obviously causes damage to the car, ranging from wear marks on the front or rear bumpers, through to damage to the exhaust system or the underside of the engine.
  • Potential Handling problems. Lowering a car can potentially increase handling, but only if the road is perfectly smooth – which are rare to non-existent. On roads with imperfections you might actually end up cornering slower, as the car hits harder and skips across bumps. It’s the suspensions job to keep the tyres in contact with the road at all times, and lowered suspension can’t always do a good job of that.
  • Uneven tire wear. In some cases, lowered suspension can cause tires to wear unevenly or cause extreme wear patterns. Drivers should look out for this consequence when altering their suspension in any way.
  • Rubbing on bodywork. Lowered cars are also at an increased risk of having their tyres rub on the guards or inner wheel wells while driving. The risk is more pronounced when going over bumps or whilst turning – or when both happen at once. This can result in damage to your tyres and also to the vehicle itself.
  • Reduced practicality. Lowering a vehicle makes almost everything more difficult. Whether its carrying a heavy load or simply trying to fit a jack under the vehicle to lift it up for routine maintenance, having lowered suspension can make a simple job a lot more difficult than it should be.

If I remember right, some of the issues you've had with your car were rattles, tire wear, and having to replace worn or failing suspension parts. Unless you had these issues before you lowered your car, it would seem that the aggressive drop on the OEM suspension was the origin of your problems. As far as the ball joint boots, I don't know specifically how they got torn - could be from contact with other parts, maybe something similar to this.
 

sm1ke

Work In Progress..
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Canada
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'18 CX-9 Signature
Here's another website that explains everything better than I could.


Sorry for derailing the thread.
 

tibimakai

San Dimas CA
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USA
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2014 CX-5 Touring
I don't have any serious issues with my car, one of my tire was unbalanced, that caused all the vibration.
I have a creaking sound coming from the driver's seat, but that is most likely a bad welding issue, since I heard a pop one day. A while ago the lumbar support had a similar issue, bad welding, they had to replace the whole back of the seat.
When I was checking out my suspension for the vibration, I have seen one of the engine/transmission mounts that seems like it allows way to much movement, and I have replaced it.
To me, it seems like the rubber components on this car are way to soft, it could be that the Cali heat is causing this, I don't know.
 

Chris_Top_Her

Banned
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San Antonio, Texas
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'15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I don't have any serious issues with my car, one of my tire was unbalanced, that caused all the vibration.
I have a creaking sound coming from the driver's seat, but that is most likely a bad welding issue, since I heard a pop one day. A while ago the lumbar support had a similar issue, bad welding, they had to replace the whole back of the seat.
When I was checking out my suspension for the vibration, I have seen one of the engine/transmission mounts that seems like it allows way to much movement, and I have replaced it.
To me, it seems like the rubber components on this car are way to soft, it could be that the Cali heat is causing this, I don't know.
🤷‍♂️
 

Chris_Top_Her

Banned
Moderator
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San Antonio, Texas
:
'15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Changed my pads.. $30 for all corners on ebay. Was going to install some stainless lines and bleed, but it was more work than I wanted to do at the time.
 
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2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
No reason really. The car drove perfectly and I should have been a lot wiser the second time they recommended the alignment. When I bought the car, the promotion was every other service would be a free oil change as long as I owned the car. So, I suppose they are trying to recoup their "losses" by their unnecessary recommendations.
How many miles were on the car after the first dealer recommended alignment?

I'd be VERY wary of anything that this dealer recommends in the future. There's no reason for a car with this few miles on it needing an alignment, unless the alignment was thrown off somehow.
 
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2014 CX-5 Touring
hmmm our 2014 has a vibration on the highway that I figured was worn tires or tire balance issue. Maybe I need to look at the engine/gearbox mounts?
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
hmmm our 2014 has a vibration on the highway that I figured was worn tires or tire balance issue. Maybe I need to look at the engine/gearbox mounts?
In your case, vibration on the highway, I’d start the tire balancing first. If you purchased tires from Discount Tire, they’ll do it for free along with tire rotation.
 

Pipemajor

Hoot Mon!
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Minnesota
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2017 CX-5 GT AWD
Took my '17 GT in today for only it's 3rd scheduled maintenance/oil change. Mileage is a shade over 15k. Routine oil change/tire rotation. They did recommend a cabin air filter but I declined after them saying it was $59. I pulled my original one when I got home and yeah, it was pretty bad. Evidence of mice with bird seed and a couple of the pleats chewed off. I ordered an OEM filter online from an outstate Mazda dealer for $21.

They also charged me $8 to replace the EOM drain plug. The OEM plug has a female hex socket which they said will strip. The replacement is a std hex cap.

My previous service done last year I had the AA/CP update done which replaces the infotainment head. They neglected to provide a USB cable with the update although the manual says that is provided. Probably a good thing as my new phone I got last fall now has the USB-C connector. The designated USB port for the phone puts out plenty of amperage to quickly charge the phone.

Oh, the dealer also advertises they can do a no contact pickup and delivery for maintenance for C-19 concerns. When I asked on the phone they said that service was only valid within 5 miles of the dealership. I live 8 miles away so had to take it in and wait. Only 2 other customers in the waiting area and all 3 of us wore masks.

Service advisers also had masks when interfacing with the customers but no other employees in the store wore them.
 

Chris_Top_Her

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San Antonio, Texas
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'15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Lol, that's kind of cheap they would charge you to upgrade the drain bolt which is really for their convinience. Tbh, after so many times it should be replaced anyways as it gets knocked. But yea, the hex is a bad design.
 
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2014 CX-5 Touring
In your case, vibration on the highway, I’d start the tire balancing first. If you purchased tires from Discount Tire, they’ll do it for free along with tire rotation.
The current tires are about done, so we'll be ordered new ones soon, and I do plan on ordered from DTD and getting them installed at my local DT store. I already have a lifetime alignment plan at Firestone, so I'll still have that, and usually have it checked after each time I rotate tires. So I'll get that done after the new tires are put on.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
The current tires are about done, so we'll be ordered new ones soon, and I do plan on ordered from DTD and getting them installed at my local DT store. I already have a lifetime alignment plan at Firestone, so I'll still have that, and usually have it checked after each time I rotate tires. So I'll get that done after the new tires are put on.
I’d go to local Discount Tire Stote directly instead of Discount Tire Direct as I can ask them to order almost any tires I want if they don’t have it in stock, and do the price match to any tire sellers including Costco and WalMart.

I had my local Discount Tire Store ordered and price-matched Radar Dimax AS-8 225/55R19 103V tires selling by WalMart.com for less than $80 each with Discount Tire 10% cash back Independence Day Event.

What kind of tires are in your mind for the next set?
 
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