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What have you done to your CX-5 today?

:
Charlottesville
:
2016 CX-5
Replaced rear brakes, rotors and bled them. Powerstop coated rotors and pads from rockauto. Timely as the right rear pads were almost to the metal.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg. Plano, TX
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Replaced rear brakes, rotors and bled them. Powerstop coated rotors and pads from rockauto. Timely as the right rear pads were almost to the metal.
If you have a 2016 CX-5, have you checked the date code on the rear calipers? You may need revised calipers to prevent uneven rear right and left disk pad wear due to rear brake dragging based on an EPB TSB.
 

Avoidin Deer

Zoom Zoom, baby
Contributor
:
Central Virginia
:
2019 CX-5 Reserve
A low-level thing, but I like how the license plate screws are dressed up...

I ordered some scenic license plates and did a custom number. In Virginia, our standard plates are white, and some scenic ones are rectangles screened over the white plate, leaving a 3/8" white border all the way around.

I bought a black frame for the rear (to get rid of the cheap silver dealer frame) and painted the white plate borders (front and rear) to match, because the white looked horrible in contrast. (The painting I did complies with the statutes.)

The plate sits on top of the frame so that none of the plate is obscured by the frame. I used screw caps to cover the top mounting screws. For the unused bottom plate holes I ran #14x20 pan head nylon screws (won't rust or scratch) through the back side, cut them to length and attached the caps with low-profile nuts. Did this front & rear. The front tag is on the factory mount. I had to buy different mounting screws for the front plate because the original large hex head ones were too large to fit in the caps.

I kinda like the finished "riveted look."

Front Plate redacted.jpg


Rear Plate redacted.jpg
 
:
2019 Mazda CX-5 Signature Machine Grey
Plugged in a $36 Mazda GPS SD card. Works great!
A low-level thing, but I like how the license plate screws are dressed up...

I ordered some scenic license plates and did a custom number. In Virginia, our standard plates are white, and some scenic ones are rectangles screened over the white plate, leaving a 3/8" white border all the way around.

I bought a black frame for the rear (to get rid of the cheap silver dealer frame) and painted the white plate borders (front and rear) to match, because the white looked horrible in contrast. (The painting I did complies with the statutes.)

The plate sits on top of the frame so that none of the plate is obscured by the frame. I used screw caps to cover the top mounting screws. For the unused bottom plate holes I ran #14x20 pan head nylon screws (won't rust or scratch) through the back side, cut them to length and attached the caps with low-profile nuts. Did this front & rear. The front tag is on the factory mount. I had to buy different mounting screws for the front plate because the original large hex head ones were too large to fit in the caps.

I kinda like the finished "riveted look."

View attachment 223586

View attachment 223588
Looks good Deer,little projects like that help keep the mind busy in these stressful times.I also replaced the dealer license plate frames with Matte black ones,no free advertising Mr. dealer!Anxiously waiting for the weather to take a turn,we just got 8 inches of snow.First order of business will be a full detail in and out.Stay safe Sir.....oh yea what oil did they use for your recent service?
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Replaced both rear sway bar end links. These were longer pieces (from an '03 Protege5) I put in to take care of the bigger rear sway moving around when I jacked it up. The old ones were corroded and the nuts kept loosening up. I got the right one off without much trouble (it was very loose), the left one put up a fight but I beat it into submission. I had some Mazda flanged nuts lying around that I used in place of the Nyloc nuts included with the new end links, hopefully they won't loose like the Nylocs.
 

tibimakai

San Dimas CA
:
USA
:
2014 CX-5 Touring
I'm doing these over two-three days, since I'm staying home.
Replacing all the discs and pads, and I'm also painting the brake calipers/brackets. Paint is not drying fast enough, it is still tacky by the next day.
Replacing the wheel nuts, with new red aluminum ones, I'm also replacing the valve stem caps as well.
While at it, I have discovered, that my outer tie rod and lower ball joint, has a nice opening in their boots. At 63k in Los Angeles. Though I'm not seeing any grease anywhere. I'm seeing this correctly?
 

Attachments

Chris_Top_Her

Banned
Moderator
Contributor
:
San Antonio, Texas
:
'15 CX-5 Miata AWD
I'm doing these over two-three days, since I'm staying home.
Replacing all the discs and pads, and I'm also painting the brake calipers/brackets. Paint is not drying fast enough, it is still tacky by the next day.
Replacing the wheel nuts, with new red aluminum ones, I'm also replacing the valve stem caps as well.
While at it, I have discovered, that my outer tie rod and lower ball joint, has a nice opening in their boots. At 63k in Los Angeles. Though I'm not seeing any grease anywhere. I'm seeing this correctly?
Probably al the grease has squeezed out 😅. Likely because of those bouncy ass corksports and the increase rod angle. I got auto exe outer tie rods to level it out.
 

Chris_Top_Her

Banned
Moderator
Contributor
:
San Antonio, Texas
:
'15 CX-5 Miata AWD
Replaced both rear sway bar end links. These were longer pieces (from an '03 Protege5) I put in to take care of the bigger rear sway moving around when I jacked it up. The old ones were corroded and the nuts kept loosening up. I got the right one off without much trouble (it was very loose), the left one put up a fight but I beat it into submission. I had some Mazda flanged nuts lying around that I used in place of the Nyloc nuts included with the new end links, hopefully they won't loose like the Nylocs.
Ultra racing sway bar?
 

sm1ke

Work In Progress..
Moderator
Contributor
:
Canada
:
'18 CX-9 Signature
Replacing the wheel nuts, with new red aluminum ones, I'm also replacing the valve stem caps as well.
I had blue aluminum nuts on one of my old cars. Just some advice - hand tighten with a soft socket to prevent scratching/marring the surfaces. Don't overtorque them either as they are much more likely to strip than regular nuts.
 

tibimakai

San Dimas CA
:
USA
:
2014 CX-5 Touring
I was wondering about the torquing. These are aluminum nuts, they should be tightened to 90-100 as steel ones? The old ones were popping like crazy, when I was removing them. Wheel and nut are the same material, which I know is not a good thing.
I guess, soon I will need to replace all four ball joints. I don't feel anything wrong right now.
 

chiefmg

MOTM July 2015
:
'81 RX-7 GS, '00 Miata SE, '16 Camaro (wife's), '15 CX-5 GT AWD
Ultra racing sway bar?
No. Can't remember for sure without looking it up but think it's a Corksport (it's been four years since install).

The other day I noticed some discoloration at the bottom of the rear license plate. Pulled that off today, good thing as the screws were very tight due to corrosion (despite my using anti-seize on them). Cleaned up the discoloration and put some touch-up paint on the spot. Also cleaned up the bottom of the plate and put some black silicone along the edge to give some protection.
 
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sm1ke

Work In Progress..
Moderator
Contributor
:
Canada
:
'18 CX-9 Signature
I was wondering about the torquing. These are aluminum nuts, they should be tightened to 90-100 as steel ones?
I'm actually not sure, lol. I've always just torqued my lug nuts by hand with the socket wrench, then retorqued by hand a few days later.
 

Who has a CX-5 and a Miata?

  • Yes, an ND MX-5 Miata

    Votes: 8 11.9%
  • Yes, an Older Gen MX-5 Miata

    Votes: 20 29.9%
  • Yes, more than one actually...

    Votes: 2 3.0%
  • No but I'm in the market for one...

    Votes: 4 6.0%
  • No

    Votes: 33 49.3%
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