If you have a 2016 CX-5, have you checked the date code on the rear calipers? You may need revised calipers to prevent uneven rear right and left disk pad wear due to rear brake dragging based on an EPB TSB.Replaced rear brakes, rotors and bled them. Powerstop coated rotors and pads from rockauto. Timely as the right rear pads were almost to the metal.
Plugged in a $36 Mazda GPS SD card. Works great!
Looks good Deer,little projects like that help keep the mind busy in these stressful times.I also replaced the dealer license plate frames with Matte black ones,no free advertising Mr. dealer!Anxiously waiting for the weather to take a turn,we just got 8 inches of snow.First order of business will be a full detail in and out.Stay safe Sir.....oh yea what oil did they use for your recent service?A low-level thing, but I like how the license plate screws are dressed up...
I ordered some scenic license plates and did a custom number. In Virginia, our standard plates are white, and some scenic ones are rectangles screened over the white plate, leaving a 3/8" white border all the way around.
I bought a black frame for the rear (to get rid of the cheap silver dealer frame) and painted the white plate borders (front and rear) to match, because the white looked horrible in contrast. (The painting I did complies with the statutes.)
The plate sits on top of the frame so that none of the plate is obscured by the frame. I used screw caps to cover the top mounting screws. For the unused bottom plate holes I ran #14x20 pan head nylon screws (won't rust or scratch) through the back side, cut them to length and attached the caps with low-profile nuts. Did this front & rear. The front tag is on the factory mount. I had to buy different mounting screws for the front plate because the original large hex head ones were too large to fit in the caps.
I kinda like the finished "riveted look."
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Probably al the grease has squeezed out . Likely because of those bouncy ass corksports and the increase rod angle. I got auto exe outer tie rods to level it out.I'm doing these over two-three days, since I'm staying home.
Replacing all the discs and pads, and I'm also painting the brake calipers/brackets. Paint is not drying fast enough, it is still tacky by the next day.
Replacing the wheel nuts, with new red aluminum ones, I'm also replacing the valve stem caps as well.
While at it, I have discovered, that my outer tie rod and lower ball joint, has a nice opening in their boots. At 63k in Los Angeles. Though I'm not seeing any grease anywhere. I'm seeing this correctly?
Ultra racing sway bar?Replaced both rear sway bar end links. These were longer pieces (from an '03 Protege5) I put in to take care of the bigger rear sway moving around when I jacked it up. The old ones were corroded and the nuts kept loosening up. I got the right one off without much trouble (it was very loose), the left one put up a fight but I beat it into submission. I had some Mazda flanged nuts lying around that I used in place of the Nyloc nuts included with the new end links, hopefully they won't loose like the Nylocs.
I had blue aluminum nuts on one of my old cars. Just some advice - hand tighten with a soft socket to prevent scratching/marring the surfaces. Don't overtorque them either as they are much more likely to strip than regular nuts.Replacing the wheel nuts, with new red aluminum ones, I'm also replacing the valve stem caps as well.
No. Can't remember for sure without looking it up but think it's a Corksport (it's been four years since install).Ultra racing sway bar?
You know I was just thinking the other night when I was pulling groceries out of the back how much the light back there didn't do a damn thing.I ordered the coRksport LED package for the interior. Mainly for the sake of the back hatch area, which Mazda should be ashamed of.