What did you pay for your CX-5?

I still owe the forum a breakdown of my deal, but I believe that's right around where I was for purchase price on my white GTR in Houston. Similar additions as well except for front tint and door edge protection. There's tons of Touring and Grand Touring on the lots around here in Houston. It would have been around $3000 less for a GT at the same lot I purchased from--possibly more if I'd negotiated it further (he initially misunderstood me and thought I wanted the non-reserve and worked up an initial price on that). My doc fee was only $125 though--but $495 is not unheard of I wouldn't think depending on area. Other's can chime in there I'm sure.
 
NY/Tristate area.

Trying to get a cx5 sport. I cant get ANY dealers to lower their prices off of the damn sticker price! Getting quotes like $27,755.00.
 
I hate to admit this, but I guess it's possible that there really is such low Supply. They don't have to. I know you've contacted several dealers, how about straight up asking one. "Everybody selling them the exact same price, isn't there some incentive/reason you can give me to buy it from you?" I'm just grasping at straws here, trying to think of something you could say to entice a dealer.
 
I hate to admit this, but I guess it's possible that there really is such low Supply. They don't have to. I know you've contacted several dealers, how about straight up asking one. "Everybody selling them the exact same price, isn't there some incentive/reason you can give me to buy it from you?" I'm just grasping at straws here, trying to think of something you could say to entice a dealer.

That's what I would do. I'd probably just ask a dealer directly why it seems that nobody is willing to negotiate on pricing, then let them know you're interested in buying one at X price and to call you if they want to talk about a deal. Unless you absolutely need a brand new car right now, I'd hold off on the purchase until things change and their stock levels are replenished.
 
That's what I would do. I'd probably just ask a dealer directly why it seems that nobody is willing to negotiate on pricing, then let them know you're interested in buying one at X price and to call you if they want to talk about a deal. Unless you absolutely need a brand new car right now, I'd hold off on the purchase until things change and their stock levels are replenished.


Yeah its very odd around the tristate area. I have to hand back my car in dec. So maybe I should wait? I was going to just hand in my lease early. I am over miles anyway so ill just bite the overcharge on miles. Just want to be OVER car shopping.
 
Hi all, Checking in on a price to see if is reasonable.

CX-5 Touring AWD
Preffered Pkg + Moonroof

MSRP 30970

Dealer Special 29071 (Includes Delivery,Processing,Handling)

Incentives
Loyalty -750
Finance -1500 (Taking 3.9% APR cash)
Additional -500

Total before tax: 26821

From what I see 15% off MSRP is the best deal anyone can get. I am about 8.9%. Think I have some negotiation room?

I am not in a huge hurry to buy, but as many have stated here... I would like to be done car shopping.

Also some of the incentives seem to expire end of the month, but I also have seen them just extend them so I am not sure if it is worth worrying over.
 
NY/Tristate area.

Trying to get a cx5 sport. I cant get ANY dealers to lower their prices off of the damn sticker price! Getting quotes like $27,755.00.

I hate to admit this, but I guess it's possible that there really is such low Supply. They don't have to. I know you've contacted several dealers, how about straight up asking one. "Everybody selling them the exact same price, isn't there some incentive/reason you can give me to buy it from you?" I'm just grasping at straws here, trying to think of something you could say to entice a dealer.

Maybe try pricing Touring trim? Might actually be cheaper to upgrade.

I know down here in GA they neither stock nor sell nearly as many CX-5 Sports as Touring and Grand Touring models. Just checking one dealer close to me on 2020 CX-5 inventory (and I'm sure they're not alone!):

Sport (11)
Touring (56)
Grand Touring (45)
Grand Touring Reserve (9)
Signature (0)

With the 2021's on the way, I would imagine they're in a bit of a panic over the amount of inventory of 2020 Touring and GT. They are, however, showing $2,200 discounts on the Sports on their website ($2,500 off on Touring, $3,000 off GT, & GTR).
 
Yeah its very odd around the tristate area. I have to hand back my car in dec. So maybe I should wait? I was going to just hand in my lease early. I am over miles anyway so ill just bite the overcharge on miles. Just want to be OVER car shopping.

You don't have to turn in your leased car, early or otherwise. You can use it as a trade-in. Assuming the trade offer covers the payoff, you won't have to worry with mileage or condition charges.

Leases are really just another form of financing with a balloon note on the end (residual). Yes, of course, you can hand it back to them at the end. But that's just an option, not a requirement. From day one there is always a payoff amount, dropping a little each month, and you can trade or pay off to end the lease at any time, just like traditional financing.

I guess I should be shocked that so many people who lease don't understand this, but I'm not. I've been having to explain this to other people for decades... and some still don't want to believe me (though what I say is 100% true). o_O
 
You don't have to turn in your leased car, early or otherwise. You can use it as a trade-in. Assuming the trade offer covers the payoff, you won't have to worry with mileage or condition charges.

Leases are really just another form of financing with a balloon note on the end (residual). Yes, of course, you can hand it back to them at the end. But that's just an option, not a requirement. From day one there is always a payoff amount, dropping a little each month, and you can trade or pay off to end the lease at any time, just like traditional financing.

I guess I should be shocked that so many people who lease don't understand this, but I'm not. I've been having to explain this to other people for decades... and some still don't want to believe me (though what I say is 100% true). o_O


I am a little confused? The car I lease now is a rouge sport. My plan was at the end of the lease to just hand it back and get a mazda.
 
I am a little confused? The car I lease now is a rouge sport. My plan was at the end of the lease to just hand it back and get a mazda.
You only have to worry about the mileage and condition if you turn the car in at the end of the lease. If you look at your account you will see a payoff quote somewhere, that is a combo of your remaining payments and your residual value. If your residual is $12,000 and you have $2000 in payments left before turn in, you can "buy" the car for $14,000 (plus maybe a purchase option fee, depends on the lease). If you do this, mileage and condition don't matter because Nissan isn't getting that car back.

Here's where you have to do some calculations and prep. Go on KBB and get your trade in value estimate. Then, go to whatever is in your area for selling a car, check out the online places like car max, vroom, carvana, etc. Do ALL of them they will be different from each other. Is your sell value greater than your payoff amount? Great, don't you dare turn that car in.

If your trade/sell value quotes are LESS than what your payoff is, now you gotta figure what your turn in fee is (usually $300-500) PLUS your milage overage and how much the overage fee is per mile. If you're say, 20 cents per mile and 10,000 miles over, we'll, you know that if you turn in the lease they're going to send you a bill for $2300 (plus any other excess damage they deem to exist).

So, now you just compare your options, sell to third party, turn in to Nissan, or trade in at Mazda? Which one nets you the greatest benefit when plugging in all the numbers. Then do that.
 
You only have to worry about the mileage and condition if you turn the car in at the end of the lease. If you look at your account you will see a payoff quote somewhere, that is a combo of your remaining payments and your residual value. If your residual is $12,000 and you have $2000 in payments left before turn in, you can "buy" the car for $14,000 (plus maybe a purchase option fee, depends on the lease). If you do this, mileage and condition don't matter because Nissan isn't getting that car back.

Here's where you have to do some calculations and prep. Go on KBB and get your trade in value estimate. Then, go to whatever is in your area for selling a car, check out the online places like car max, vroom, carvana, etc. Do ALL of them they will be different from each other. Is your sell value greater than your payoff amount? Great, don't you dare turn that car in.

If your trade/sell value quotes are LESS than what your payoff is, now you gotta figure what your turn in fee is (usually $300-500) PLUS your milage overage and how much the overage fee is per mile. If you're say, 20 cents per mile and 10,000 miles over, we'll, you know that if you turn in the lease they're going to send you a bill for $2300 (plus any other excess damage they deem to exist).

So, now you just compare your options, sell to third party, turn in to Nissan, or trade in at Mazda? Which one nets you the greatest benefit when plugging in all the numbers. Then do that.


Gotcha, I will look at the payoff amount. I do not think the car resale value will be higher than the payoff though. I will look!

If it is not, I was going to hand in my car to Nissan in dec and get a mazda. The issue is these DAMN PRICES!
 
Gotcha, I will look at the payoff amount. I do not think the car resale value will be higher than the payoff though. I will look!

If it is not, I was going to hand in my car to Nissan in dec and get a mazda. The issue is these DAMN PRICES!
Yeah you might be better off waiting until December when there's more motivation to get 2020s off the lots. I suspect, and I could be wrong, that theres not enough major differences between 2020 Sport and 2021 Sport that make a bigger impact at the signature and GTR trims (infotainment and Nav upgrades, 3D camera etc). You can always extend your lease month to month so you're not pressured to get a new car right now.

We did that with My wife's CX9 earlier this year, we went an extra 5 months. All it did was reduce the residual payoff balance. It actually saved us from being upside down on it (hurricane Harvey emergency payment deferral is how we were upside down on a lease).
 
Gotcha, I will look at the payoff amount. I do not think the car resale value will be higher than the payoff though. I will look!

If it is not, I was going to hand in my car to Nissan in dec and get a mazda. The issue is these DAMN PRICES!
1) Even if you're upside-down you can still trade it. Dealers often make concessions on trade value, though typically they make it up on selling you the new car. Still, you get to roll the descepancy into the new lease/loan. Chances are, though, you won't be too far off unless miles are way, way over and/or condition is really bad. Residuals are based on the mfr's estimates for likely value at the end of the lease... and WITH dealer profit on resale built-in. You see, they don't want to be upside down on your lease turn-in either. That's where the charges for miles and condition come in. If you abuse your car (condition) or violate your lease (miles), thereby reducing the value of the car, they make sure they'll be made whole through overage charges. And honestly, they have a right to. But, you have the right to buy-out the lease instead.

2) Prices change. Deals happen. Dealers find themselves under pressure to meet quotas. Factory incentives typically run on a monthly basis and you've got 2+ months to shop for the right deal (plus many leases will allow for a temporary extension on request). September apparently hasn't been a great month for buyers with the current Mazda incentives, but it'll be October in two days. Maybe Mazda will get serious about clearing out the 2020's. Who knows! By December they may be serious about selling 2021's too, and REAL SERIOUS about the remaining 2020's. Much as they want us to believe from their TV ads that everyone gives cars as Christmas presents, I doubt the holidays are really that great for car dealers unless there are good deals to be had.
 
1) Even if you're upside-down you can still trade it. Dealers often make concessions on trade value, though typically they make it up on selling you the new car. Still, you get to roll the descepancy into the new lease/loan. Chances are, though, you won't be too far off unless miles are way, way over and/or condition is really bad. Residuals are based on the mfr's estimates for likely value at the end of the lease... and WITH dealer profit on resale built-in. You see, they don't want to be upside down on your lease turn-in either. That's where the charges for miles and condition come in. If you abuse your car (condition) or violate your lease (miles), thereby reducing the value of the car, they make sure they'll be made whole through overage charges. And honestly, they have a right to. But, you have the right to buy-out the lease instead.

2) Prices change. Deals happen. Dealers find themselves under pressure to meet quotas. Factory incentives typically run on a monthly basis and you've got 2+ months to shop for the right deal (plus many leases will allow for a temporary extension on request). September apparently hasn't been a great month for buyers with the current Mazda incentives, but it'll be October in two days. Maybe Mazda will get serious about clearing out the 2020's. Who knows! By December they may be serious about selling 2021's too, and REAL SERIOUS about the remaining 2020's. Much as they want us to believe from their TV ads that everyone gives cars as Christmas presents, I doubt the holidays are really that great for car dealers unless there are good deals to be had.


hm. So in dec when my lease is up what would I do? Say I want to keep the car? Then sell it to a dealer? Sorry, i am just so confused! I dont know much about this! This has been my 1st leased car and I got it because I got a new job and NEEDED a car asap lol
 
hm. So in dec when my lease is up what would I do? Say I want to keep the car? Then sell it to a dealer? Sorry, i am just so confused! I dont know much about this! This has been my 1st leased car and I got it because I got a new job and NEEDED a car asap lol
If you have until December you're gold. You can even tell a couple dealers emthe price you're willing to pay, you're a guaranteed sale, and as soon as they can get your number call you.
 
If you have until December you're gold. You can even tell a couple dealers emthe price you're willing to pay, you're a guaranteed sale, and as soon as they can get your number call you.

I contacted about 20 dealers. Not ONE would go below their sticker price. I feel that when dec comes they will lower their price
 
I contacted about 20 dealers. Not ONE would go below their sticker price. I feel that when dec comes they will lower their price

If you want the car now then you need to be willing to travel up to 500 miles by flying and driving or driving with someone to drive back. There are plenty available with deals to be had if you put in the time and effort emailing and cross shopping. Use the cargurus website to search within 500 miles of your zip, with the specific configuration and color refined and sorted from closest to furthest away. It will show you every vehicle available in that config from every dealer who had it. Make a list and copy down the VIN number for that car. Then go to the dealers website and find the email address of the general sales manager, new car sales manager or internet/fleet manager and send them a no BS straight to the point email on the specific VIN they have on their lot, which you found earlier and tell them you are ready to buy today for xxxx price ( make the price around 15% off the monroney sticker price, not the dealer added items sticker price) and go from there with your negotiations. Some dealers will respond, some will but not go so low and some will and ask hiw fast you can come down. You WILL get a deal but you will need to do the work. Good luck!
 
hm. So in dec when my lease is up what would I do? Say I want to keep the car? Then sell it to a dealer? Sorry, i am just so confused! I dont know much about this! This has been my 1st leased car and I got it because I got a new job and NEEDED a car asap lol

If you have until December you're gold. You can even tell a couple dealers emthe price you're willing to pay, you're a guaranteed sale, and as soon as they can get your number call you.
@deftones1337: As @Jaybw6 says, the chances are very good that you'll find a good deal before your lease is up. But if you do end up needing to extend the lease you'll have to ask the leasing company for an extension. Probably couldn't hurt to call them now and find out what the terms would be. Just don't commit to an extension until you know you need to.

Dealers want to sell (or lease) you a car. They're not accomplishing that right now by standing firm on MSRP. But eventually they, or some other dealer, will come around.

Sometimes it's hard not to hold a grudge when you figure out they've been trying to soak you. But it's best to take a dispassionate approach. That same dealership may end up with the best offer if/when they get desperate to move inventory or meet quota... or not. Doesn't matter; you have options and YOU are in the driver's seat (pun most definitely intended). They can't make you buy a car. They can only try to sell you one.
 
@deftones1337 just a suggestion.. it may be worth looking into a local car broker. They basically do all the negotiation and hunting for you for a flat rate or a fixed fee. A good broker would probably also be able to advise you on your best course of action with regard to your current lease and what you should do with it. In my understanding, brokers basically do what we have already advised, but it sounds like you're not having any luck dealing with them yourselves. Car brokers will sometimes have good relationships with dealerships, so that can also be an advantage to using a broker. Just one more option to consider.
 
@deftones1337 just a suggestion.. it may be worth looking into a local car broker. They basically do all the negotiation and hunting for you for a flat rate or a fixed fee. A good broker would probably also be able to advise you on your best course of action with regard to your current lease and what you should do with it. In my understanding, brokers basically do what we have already advised, but it sounds like you're not having any luck dealing with them yourselves. Car brokers will sometimes have good relationships with dealerships, so that can also be an advantage to using a broker. Just one more option to consider.
I actually used a leasing brooker for my current rouge! Maybe I should contact him again about buying the mazda. hm.
 
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