what out of state dealer..CT? That's a good price on a GT
What did you pay for your CX-5?
- Thread starter gotodengo
- Start date
1
181962
2020 CX-5 Touring AWD Soul Red, zero options, dealer service loaner with 4,000 miles in like-new condition, clean Car Fax , Mazda Certified with 6 months extended bumper-to-bumper warranty and 2 years extended drive train warranty at no additional cost.
It was exactly the combo I had been tracking for a new purchase though I would have been perfectly satisfied if it were in silver.
A bit more than $4,000 off sticker on an all-cash purchase less $3,500 in trade on a 2006 Honda Accord EX-L V6, very clean, 100,000 miles, nearly new Continentals but coming up on the timing belt / water pump / spark plug replacements. When I bought the Contis I did not anticiapte my wife's bad knees from preventing her from wanting to ever get in it again, otherwise I would have kept that Accord for another decade or more.
I was looking for new and then ran across this one on Cars.com equipped exactly as I wanted, advertised at this price. I ended up driving out of state 200 miles to check it out, then bought and traded on that trip. I took my wife along to co-title and drive both cars back home if I didn't get an acceptable trade number. Didn't haggle except some on the trade which they will make some money on. I'm going to have to transfer registration myself and pay the sales tax in NY (none in Ohio) once I get the Ohio title. I never bought out of state before; not too much of a hassle providing I get that title on time in about 3 weeks after purchase with a 45 day temp Ohio tag in the mean time.
New versions on all the trim levels were advertised in my area at 8% off sticker when showrooms were shut down for Covid. As soon as they re-opened that disappeared and I missed the window. Back to $500 - $800 off sticker they went for about what could be expected in this area.
At the same time I bought this vehicle about a week ago outside Cleveland, a Kent Ohio dealer nearby was advertising this vehicle new at right at that 8% off mark even with showrooms open. Perhaps Covid slowed sales in that region to the extent Mazda offered up dealer incentives. Dunno. I preferred the nearly $2,000 savings for 4,000 miles usage otherwise I might have been buying in Kent.
The point being that while pricing with dealer incentives can vary by region and other factors like holdbacks based on dealer volume, it sure looks to me like Covid has had a particular affect in regional differences.
It was exactly the combo I had been tracking for a new purchase though I would have been perfectly satisfied if it were in silver.
A bit more than $4,000 off sticker on an all-cash purchase less $3,500 in trade on a 2006 Honda Accord EX-L V6, very clean, 100,000 miles, nearly new Continentals but coming up on the timing belt / water pump / spark plug replacements. When I bought the Contis I did not anticiapte my wife's bad knees from preventing her from wanting to ever get in it again, otherwise I would have kept that Accord for another decade or more.
I was looking for new and then ran across this one on Cars.com equipped exactly as I wanted, advertised at this price. I ended up driving out of state 200 miles to check it out, then bought and traded on that trip. I took my wife along to co-title and drive both cars back home if I didn't get an acceptable trade number. Didn't haggle except some on the trade which they will make some money on. I'm going to have to transfer registration myself and pay the sales tax in NY (none in Ohio) once I get the Ohio title. I never bought out of state before; not too much of a hassle providing I get that title on time in about 3 weeks after purchase with a 45 day temp Ohio tag in the mean time.
New versions on all the trim levels were advertised in my area at 8% off sticker when showrooms were shut down for Covid. As soon as they re-opened that disappeared and I missed the window. Back to $500 - $800 off sticker they went for about what could be expected in this area.
At the same time I bought this vehicle about a week ago outside Cleveland, a Kent Ohio dealer nearby was advertising this vehicle new at right at that 8% off mark even with showrooms open. Perhaps Covid slowed sales in that region to the extent Mazda offered up dealer incentives. Dunno. I preferred the nearly $2,000 savings for 4,000 miles usage otherwise I might have been buying in Kent.
The point being that while pricing with dealer incentives can vary by region and other factors like holdbacks based on dealer volume, it sure looks to me like Covid has had a particular affect in regional differences.
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i purchased from autex mazda in keene nh, ask to work with serena, she was great.
too late, tried yesterday and they were 5.7 off MRSP. Just got got 7.7 off on a grey touring with PP from CT dealer. Most all other dealers under 5%
i dunno, I could be wrong but it seems like I'm close to 10% under msrp:
msrp: $32,810
discount: $3,104
msrp: $32,810
discount: $3,104
Congrats! Did you end up buying in MD or VA?just got mine! Touring AWD+PP for 29k before ttl (with 0% financing) in the DC area. loving the deep blue mica
that would be great..don't know why they would quote my so much less..
did you ask for something in their current inventory?
I was just
As zroger points out, your deal is slightly better than current employee pricing so well done!
I just shopped heavily for the signature in black and just bought slightly higher. Dealers were playing games with the incentives since current deal is $1500 cash back or 0%APR, and I wanted the financing.
Car manufacturers dialed back on production immediately and so there is not as much spare inventory as I was expecting from an environment that looks recessionary to consumers. I had stalled out on my reverse auction with some of the local dealers until I was able to get splan pricing from a dealer and then used that to get down to close to eplan. I could probably have gotten down to eplan or a little lower if I was willing to keep cycling, but I wanted to use this dealership for maintenance so decided to not keep pushing.
my pricing:
Retail: $38,235 (incl destination fee)
Discount: $2,247
additional mfg rebate: $500
+ $85 Doc Fee
Price: $35,488
TTL: $3,871.50
OTD: $39,359.50
Negotiated for daughter's first new car. Like I posted before, most dealers in the MA/CT area where under 5% off MRSP. Ended up with 7.7% off, which I'm pleased with. Inventory seems down and demand for CX-5s has increased I believe.
Gray Touring with PP, 0% financing, no other rebates.
MRSP $31,195
paid $28,800
$499 doc fee
Gray Touring with PP, 0% financing, no other rebates.
MRSP $31,195
paid $28,800
$499 doc fee
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- CX5 GT
used Cx5s 2017 hold their prices, especially if lower miles.
A perk is the cpo warranty. I would look for certified vehicle.
I would compare a new car as well if the price gap is so close between new and used. There is also a cash rebate on new cx5 for some zip codes which can lower the price further.
A perk is the cpo warranty. I would look for certified vehicle.
I would compare a new car as well if the price gap is so close between new and used. There is also a cash rebate on new cx5 for some zip codes which can lower the price further.
Bird-Dog
2017 CX-5 Touring 2020 CX-5 GTR
This MotorTrend comparo is worth a look before assuming that the QX50 would be preferable simply becasue it's more expensive:
https://www.motortrend.com/news/is-luxury-worth-it-infiniti-qx50-vs-mazda-cx5/
MT's upshot: "Truthfully, the Mazda CX-5 is such a convincing luxury SUV that you could have swapped its sticker price with the QX50's and it would still feel worth it. And what better feeling is there than that when driving off the lot in your new car?"
1
181962
You hit a nail on the head here. People are paying tens of thousands of dollars for a status badge in the new car showroom. Another vehicle from a mass market marque that boxes above it's weight class, comparing favorably (if not better) with luxury brands, is the Kia Telluride which I researched thoroughly before switching to two-rows for consideration. I'd wait another year or two on that one, released a year ago, to get the bugs worked out.
Further, the days when you could correlate original sticker price to reliability and longevity are long gone. Lexus is probably the lone exception.
The higher end the car, the more stuff it has, and the more likely it has stuff tossed in that's on the "cutting edge" that's not been tried and tested in real world driving. The more stuff, the more new stuff, the more computers, the more likely something will break. And the fancier the badge the more likely the cost to fix it will be high.
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Bird-Dog
2017 CX-5 Touring 2020 CX-5 GTR
IDK. Make the dealer an offer and see what they'll take. Surely you know they're going to mark it up to see what they can get. If they're that close to a new one, the chances are good they left plenty of room to negotiate.
If you want more info on fair pricing check Kelley Blue Book and/or Edmunds. I'd also look for recent closed sales eBay to see if you can find real-world comps for the current market.
Markup on used cars are huge, but here's some 1st hand info. Went to look at a used 2016 Infiniti last year at an Infiniti dealer. High end dealer in Scottsdale, AZ (I'm sure you've heard of it). Listed on the lot for $24,000, he ended up trying to sell it to me for about $20,000. Just sayin'
Also, some dealers can sell you a car that they CPO'd for less without the CPO. Typically they pay the manufacturer $600-$800 to CPO the cart, then sell it for about $1,200-$1,600 more than a similar non CPO'd car. So, they may taker an offer of $1,000 less and sell it to you without the CPO. Again, Just sayin'.
I'd going in with a starting offer of at least $2,000-$3,000 less than their asking price on a used car, telling tham that you're readuy go go home and get your checkbook (okay, cashiers check). They may say no but they won't kick you out. Here's the thing, they KNOW that if you leave the store you may find something else and not come back. I worked in the industry, they know their best chance to sell you a car is today, not next week.
As always, YMMV.
Also, some dealers can sell you a car that they CPO'd for less without the CPO. Typically they pay the manufacturer $600-$800 to CPO the cart, then sell it for about $1,200-$1,600 more than a similar non CPO'd car. So, they may taker an offer of $1,000 less and sell it to you without the CPO. Again, Just sayin'.
I'd going in with a starting offer of at least $2,000-$3,000 less than their asking price on a used car, telling tham that you're readuy go go home and get your checkbook (okay, cashiers check). They may say no but they won't kick you out. Here's the thing, they KNOW that if you leave the store you may find something else and not come back. I worked in the industry, they know their best chance to sell you a car is today, not next week.
As always, YMMV.
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Can't say what's the best price price as we won't really know what their PAC is.
Start with KBB, it's not perfect, but it's fairly close. You'll see that their asking price is about what dealer retail says it is. Which also means that they paid about what KBB says the trade-in value is. Please, no arguments about if dealer pricing is what KBB says it is - it's close enough when working out a deal
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- Texas
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- 2019 MX-5 Miata
"Once a dealer has certified a vehicle in the Mazda CPO Program, you may not remove it from the program for the purpose of a sale to a retail customer. Specifically, you are prohibited from negotiating the limited warranty with the customer under any circumstances."
"The cost to certify a vehicle is $399. The certification fee is charged to your Parts account and is the same for any eligible Mazda vehicle."
Source: Mazda Certified Pre-Owned Program Operations Guide Version 5.0
Honda is similar. I can't speak for other brands, but I would expect CPO programs to be similar across the industry.
