My feelings aren't hurt. It's certainly possible I could have gotten a better deal, and if my experience helps someone else get a better deal than I did, then I hope they do.Do we want to be honest or nice.....? On Miata.net we are respectful but honest - which sometimes hurts someone's feelings
That is true. Show the dealer that you want the car, meanwhile, show them that you are not the one they should play with. Do more research and be patient, all the time and effort will be worht it.My take on pricing. - I'll start at the end.... If you got a car you like, at a price you're happy with, then a month from now you won't notice whether the car cost you $400 more or less one way or the other. That said........
I noticed a lot of people "happy' with their price who didn't want the 'hassle' of trying for a better price. Here's the truth - the dealer KNOWS that you want a car more than you think he wants to sell you one. In reality, he needs to sell a car more than you need to buy one. The problem is this - if you woke up on a Saturday, drove 30 minutes to (and from) his dealership, parked your car, went inside (dreading) to see a salesman, talked about his inventory for 30 minutes, spent 30 minutes looking at the car, then another 15 minutes driving it, then he KNOWS you want to buy a car and that $500 - $1,500 isn't going to stand in your way. But it's still the truth that he needs the sale more than you need the car. And if you're accepting anything close to his offer, they still have hundreds left to negotiate.
Now, you'll drive 30 minutes across town (and 30 minutes back) to get that $1,600 big screen TV on sale somewhere for $1,300. - there's an hour of your time to save $300, great, I'd do the same. But you won't spend another hour to get your car for $300 less?
Wait, I know what you're thinking. Hey, $300 off a $1,600 TV is almost 20%, but $300 off a $30,000 car is only 1% so in the scheme of things it's no big deal. - WRONG. Either was it's $300 bucks in your pocket.
I've actually bought most of my cars by phone. A simple "If you can sell me the car $XX,XXX I'll be in there tonight. If not, I respect that but will have to think about it for a day or two" Trust me, if it's a price they sell it for you for they won't try to get that extra $300 out of you because they know that in 2 days you may not want it anymore. When you're in the showroom they know you want the car and aren't going to walk away over $300. By the time you start negotiating he already know you're going to buy the car. So it has to be a firm, "I'll buy it right now for this price, otherwise I have to go home and think about it" Again, trust me, he know if you walk out (in my case say goodbye on the phone) his odds of selling a car has gone down.
A final note, if people here are buying new Signatures for $33,000, then you can too. And there's no headache of 'haggling'. Just say that $XX,000 is what you 'll pay today. And don't fall for that "well we already installed the anti-theft etching and paint/fabric protection BS. Call his bluff and tell him to call you when they get a new car off the truck that doesn't have it yet - They can easily see what's coming off the boat in the next month.
I’d be very careful on these 2 vehicles and I’ll find out why they got traded in within a year.Hello. First timer here. Making the move from Honda to Mazda.
I'm looking at used 2019 CX-5 Signatures and found 2 nearby.
One is certified pre-owned @ the local Mazda dealership. 4K miles, list $34,500.The other is 1-owner trade-in @ GMC dealership. 13K miles, list $30K.I don't know what kind of markup exists with used cars. KBB range is $30,600-34,900, fair price $32,400-33,000. Seeing some people have successfully negotiated $32,500-33,500 ish for new 2020s, any thoughts on what I can target for used 2019s? Is $27-28,000 (before TTL) unrealistic?