What did you do to your Mazda2 today?

Really impressed so far. I have them at the lowest setting, and the ride is only slightly harsher than OEM shocks/struts and Eibach Pro-Kit springs.

If you use a wrench and ratchet, install is a breeze. Highly recommend a good torque wrench, and probably a breaker bar if some of the bolts haven’t moved in a while.

I replaced everything except the rear plastic spring seats. I went with KYB rear bump stops (cut the bottom section off) and Monroe rear mounts, everything in the front I went OEM.

Thanks for the response! I've been mulling over doing the Bilstein coilovers vs. B4 OE Replacements.

Great looking 2 btw!
 
Replaced the rear drum shoes over the weekend. First time dealing with drum brakes, the rear driver took me 3 hours to get done and passenger 1 hour. Amazing how the second time around after learning you can get things done much faster. I initially went in to grease behind the shoes but once in there decided it was worth spending $30 for new ones. Greased everything up and the squeak when I left of the brake pedal/handbrake has gone away.

I also sprayed a little silicone where the clutch engages with the fork/assembly (not sure the name). I was getting a creak/springy sound from the clutch pedal and this took care of that issue.

Noticed a small drip of oil lately and residue around some of the rear/driver bolts on the oil pan so today I started an oil pan reseal.

Once this is all done she should be ready for the next owner.
 
Finished the oil pan reseal on Thrs evening then let it sit until this morning to refill with fresh oil. No leaks. Wasn't too hard, just a bit difficult getting the residual sealant off the pan. I had to soak it in a bit of wd-40 over night and brush/pick away.
 
Did a lot yesterday:

Installed LED dome, trunk, license plate, and headlight bulbs.

Restored the headlight lenses with an HD 3M kit.

Installed new air and cabin filters.

Wiped down all plastic and ran the extractor on anything carpet/fabric except the headliner.

Installed a new headunit and tweeters in the front doors. Crossovers and mid-basses next.

Wrapped it up with two hours of inspecting front/rear suspension and trying to find the source of my front end clunking.

Ordered a new rear wheel bearing.
 
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Installed Lesjofers springs in rear, along with 30mm lift in rear. Tema4x4 shock spacers, and 30mm coil spacers(stainless U bolts to secure). No lift in front, but new OEM springs, Bilstein struts, new bump stops, inner and outer tie rod ends, control arms, Timken Wheel bearings, rebuilt the calipers, cleaned/greased the strut tower bearings, new torsion links, ball joints,new plugs, air filter, fog lights, and Serp. Belt. In the rear New Bilstein shocks, KYB bump stops and new upper shock mounts/bushings. Tekonsha trailer light package, Reese Tow hitch, Reese 2" cargo carrier with adapter for clearance. Will be mounting Voxx "209" wheels with conservative 205/40/17 tires for clearance when towing. Soon comes the feared and expensive cruise control upgrade. Pictures to come.
 
Hey,

My system has version 70.00.367a. I do not know why the touch screen does not respond and does not work at all. I'd love some help (I tried all the videos on YouTube, not working).

Thanks
 
I built a controller to keep the light switch from dimming the head unit screen and switching to dark mode in navigation when it's still day time.
 
Did a lot yesterday:

Installed LED dome, trunk, license plate, and headlight bulbs.

Restored the headlight lenses with an HD 3M kit.

Installed new air and cabin filters.

Wiped down all plastic and ran the extractor on anything carpet/fabric except the headliner.

Installed a new headunit and tweeters in the front doors. Crossovers and mid-basses next.

Wrapped it up with two hours of inspecting front/rear suspension and trying to find the source of my front end clunking.

Ordered a new rear wheel bearing.
How did the headlight kit work, and can you provide a part # or link?

For the clunking, check the struts for wear, leaking, or stiction.
 
Got the hubs off, pretty crusty job but only broke 1 bolt. Will take them in to get the old ones out and the new ones pressed in.
 
Why is the dash in the back seat?
Well, at least some of its parts were while I had the audio unit out. Found and fixed multiple bad solder joints on various components and it’s back together and working like new! Also installed some new cabin air filters while it was apart. 🙂
 
Well, at least some of its parts were while I had the audio unit out. Found and fixed multiple bad solder joints on various components and it’s back together and working like new! Also installed some new cabin air filters while it was apart. 🙂
I was curious since it's not that involved to remove the radio or filters.
 
I was curious since it's not that involved to remove the radio or filters.
Mine is a stick, so the shift knob had to come off along with the top of the console. It was the first time I’ve done anything to it inside of the car. Other repairs have all been on the outside. (y)
 
Having an issue with the radio. It works but no sound. Any quick ideas?
This was my symptom on my 2011 “2” I pulled the unit out and took it apart. On the top of the main board, really close to the output amplifier mounted on the side, there’s three large resistors that need resoldered. They crack their joints through the hot and cold cycles. Once they are resoldered, reassemble and reinstall in the dash. I didn’t remove the main board from the chassis box it’s mounted in, just removed the cd deck from on top and carefully unplugged the ribbon wire connecting it to the main board. You can leave the CD deck in place, I removed it so I could inspect other solder joints on the board. The three resistors are actually on the opposite side from the deck. Here’s a picture of the board and the three resistors. I touched up some other solder joints, but that was just preventative.
 

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