Used Clutch

T

TheSwapnessMonster

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mazda
I have a used clutch that I plan on using for a manual swap. Being that I currently have an automatic, I don't know too much about clutches. I have some friends saying I should buy another and some saying that I shouldn't. Has anyone installed a used clutch before? The car has 166,600 miles on it, so I don't need the clutch to go for more 40k and even that's hopeful.

I've measure thickness, which is generally within 0.010". I'll check warping today. What else should I check?


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If there's still enough meat on the disk and you only need it to last a couple years, run it. If the flywheel and pressure plate show any signs of heat damage, that will need to be addressed. The FSM should have minimum thickness measurements for the clutch disk.

Check the release and pilot bearings for roughness as well. Consider replacing them since they're inexpensive.
 
As mentioned measure the disc thickness. How many miles are on the used clutch. Are we talking about the clutch disc and the pressure plate? Or just one of them?

How do you know you only need it for 40,000 more miles? You're going to sell it, right? Cars don't just drop dead at 200,000 miles.

If money is tight, go for it. But pulling an engine is a lot of work to put used parts in.
 
Post pics of both sides of the clutch disc, the pressure plate, and the flywheel.

Generally installing a used clutch isnt worth the work. A clutch is pretty much just like your brake pads. There a wear item. The more you use it, the more it wears out. And for the work involved to replace it, its generally just easier to go brand new so you wont have to yank the trans again in the future for any reason.
 
I realize that cars don't drop dead at 200k, but where I am they tend to rust away so another 40k is a very conservative estimate of life on the body. I have the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel that were on the donor for 3k (need to double check) before it was written off after an accident. clutch thickness appears to be in spec at ~0.333" +/- ~0.01". I realize that I can buy a new clutch, but I was hoping to find an empirical spec for evaluating clutch wear beyond just gut feelings. I'm interested in using the clutch I have, but I'm also just curious. This car has always been a learning experience for me. So far, it looks like I should measure clutch thickness, check for warping, and look for heat damage.
 
Photos of clutch on flywheel

2015-12-22 08.07.06.jpg2015-12-22 08.07.15.jpg2015-12-22 08.07.25.jpg2015-12-22 08.07.44.jpg
 
your friction disc looks like it's in great shape still. I'd get the flywheel resurfaced since it's out of the car.
 
Here's what the FSM says...




PS... You do know that a manual swap is a pretty huge undertaking. Did you do your research so you know what you're in for ??
 
Yeah. I have access to a lift and a machine shop as well as three friends who have manual swapped 3 volvos. The car isn't a daily driver right now so I'm going for it. Thanks for the heads up. From the looks of the official thread with the how-to, the protege looks simpler than the Volvo. My friends needed to drop their subframes and engines. That won't be necessary for me.


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Pics of the clutch disc shows plenty of life. Hows the pressure plate and flywheel look though? If they have been overheated, it will show. So post up pics. You can tell just by looking if its goodd. About the only thing you cant see by eye is if anything is warped. but that really shouldnt be an issue.
 
I have to ask, why are you even swapping transmissions if your only doing it to last 40k? Seems like a pointless waste of money and time. From my experience if your gonna swap transmissions, its best get a new clutch. Its not a simple quick job at 6-8hrs to drop out a transmission and put another one in, also using a used clutch you run the risk that even if the clutch or pressure plate arent that worn out they may have a hair line crack in them some where, which could lead to failure within the first week youve installed it. IMO Either dont waste your time and money swapping transmissions or do it right and install a new clutch while youve got the chance. Even if your planning on selling the car, being able to say "Brand New Clutch" definitly sounds better than "used clutch"

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A bunch of things make it feasible; I happened upon inexpensive parts, I have access to a lift and tools, I plan to drive it until it dies. The existence of a how-to ties up feasibility nicely.

And then there's a bunch of reasons that I WANT to do it. I want to gain the mechanical experience of doing the swap and learn how to drive a stick. It's an old car that I know well so I'm not worried about breaking things and I only daily drive it in the summer, so I'll have lots of time to troubleshoot. I'm getting into AutoX and I'd like to do some more mods. Manuals are better suited to autocross and, in this car, turbo mods. I'll be out of grad school in ~2 years so I'd like to do this odd and unreasonable thing while I still can.

Another reason is that I'm hoping to get involved in mechanical design of some sort when I graduate. Hopefully, a deep understanding of the maintenance side of mechanical systems will make me a better designer as well.

To date I have shop space reserved for two weeks and all parts except fluids motor mounts and pedals.
 
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I can understand the part about wanting to learn to drive standard and getting experience doing a swap. I still say if your gonna do the swap, do it right the first time and just install a brand new clutch, ive drove cars with used clutches and it ends up feeling like a waste of time after all the hours youve spent.
Its technically not that old of a car, the protege5 last for years. Youra has less kms than mine and mine is running fine. Just had another transmission in months ago cause one of the shifting forks snapped, i replaced the clutch while i was changing transmissions. Having a new clutch will give you better experience learning to drive standard than using a used one. either way make sure you have the correct flywheel as well. Automatic uses a different flywheel than manual, from what i understand.

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Grind it out, coat in primer, depending on the amount of rust depends if i use auto body filler or fiberglass, after done filling sand, prime then paint. If the rust is really bad, i use rust mort to treat it before i do any body work

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