Transmission mount removal issues

Help, there is some sort of hydraulic/fuel line attached to my engine mount making it very hard to remove. Can anyone suggest next steps? Photo attached
 

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BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
Removing that line is actually quite simple once you've done it and understand how it works. Let me see if I can try to explain it. You need to grab the end of the clip that is bent up with a pliers, then pull it off. It's going to be stiff at first. You can try to wiggle it from side to side too, it'll pivot on the circular bushing thing around the line.

IMG20210504223308.jpg


Try to remember orientation of the clip when reinstalling too. It'll only go back on one way, and will take some force with the pliers. Make sure you put the clip through the groove in the circular bushing thing too, so that the line is held in place.

That type of clip is present on other places on the vehicle (I think brake lines for one) so it's good to know how to take them off.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
You don't need to remove that bolt.
This is the transmission mount that I removed from my parts car.


20210504_134155.jpg




I kinda forget what I did to get it out, but that hydraulic line needs to be disconnected from the bracket.

I don't know what all is included with your new mount, but if it looks like my old mount, you don't need to remove that bolt at all.
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
You don't need to remove that bolt.
This is the transmission mount that I removed from my parts car.


View attachment 298168



I kinda forget what I did to get it out, but that hydraulic line needs to be disconnected from the bracket.

I don't know what all is included with your new mount, but if it looks like my old mount, you don't need to remove that bolt at all.

PCB - I was interpreting headofjar's problem as how to get the hydraulic line off, but I see what you're saying about the through-bolt. Unfortunately, if his mount is anything like mine, he definitely will need to remove that bolt. I happen to have a brand new mount right here on my desk, and it does not include the side that mounts to the engine.

Sorry, not trying to contradict you. Just want to throw out an alternative opinion :)

The issue is, I have a complete new mount, when I remove this mount what do I do with this stamped bracket?
You should just be able to install the new mount, put the line in it and install the old clip, like it was before. See my badly sketched illustration on a photo of the new mount below.

IMG_20210504_104945185.jpg
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
PCB - I was interpreting headofjar's problem as how to get the hydraulic line off, but I see what you're saying about the through-bolt. Unfortunately, if his mount is anything like mine, he definitely will need to remove that bolt. I happen to have a brand new mount right here on my desk, and it does not include the side that mounts to the engine.

Sorry, not trying to contradict you. Just want to throw out an alternative opinion :)


You should just be able to install the new mount, put the line in it and install the old clip, like it was before. See my badly sketched illustration on a photo of the new mount below.

View attachment 298183

Thanks for correcting me.
I didn't know what all was included with the new mount.

You probably don't need to remove the part of the mount bracket that connects to the engine then?
 
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pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Benji posted while I was writing my post and I got confused. Lol

I type with one finger on my phone and it takes me forever. Lol




I remember those clips.

They use them on the rear brakes for the P-brake cable.

They have to be removed every time you replace the pads or rotors.

I use a small screwdriver laid down on the clip, between the lip and hydraulic line and pull on the screwdriver handle. It kinda rotates the clip to loosen it up.

Pulling on the clip with a pliers can be difficult, and when it lets go, your bound to take out a few knuckles. Lol


I tried to draw a picture on Benji's picture of what I mean, but I'm drawing with my finger on my phone. Lol

The blue blob on the end of the blue line is supposed to be the handle of the small screwdriver.


20210504_142509.jpg
 
You guys are legends. Thanks for the advice. It did aid me in removing the mount. My new mount does not have this same bracket so I will have to come up with another way of securing this line. It's a kelpro LH mount. It's installation seems to have made my new rear mount vibrate like crazy. I had the rear mount done at the mechanic and I think it's not suitable. So I am open to any ideas how to solve that. I may have to try putting an OEM rear engine mount in to finally fix these issues. 4 new mounts. Hopefully this will be sorted soon. The car was so close to perfect)))) oh well I'll persevere. Thanks again guys, really appreciate your advice.
 
You don't need to remove that bolt.
This is the transmission mount that I removed from my parts car.


View attachment 298168



I kinda forget what I did to get it out, but that hydraulic line needs to be disconnected from the bracket.

I don't know what all is included with your new mount, but if it looks like my old mount, you don't need to remove that bolt at all.
The new mount did not include the piece that attaches to the transmission. So I removed the bolt to get the central part of the old mount off. I may have the wrong mount as it is missing a few of these other projections as well. I specified a manual mount but I think eBay has struck again.
 
PCB - I was interpreting headofjar's problem as how to get the hydraulic line off, but I see what you're saying about the through-bolt. Unfortunately, if his mount is anything like mine, he definitely will need to remove that bolt. I happen to have a brand new mount right here on my desk, and it does not include the side that mounts to the engine.

Sorry, not trying to contradict you. Just want to throw out an alternative opinion :)


You should just be able to install the new mount, put the line in it and install the old clip, like it was before. See my badly sketched illustration on a photo of the new mount below.

View attachment 298183
Is this photo of the new mount a automatic or manual mount,?
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
...I may have the wrong mount as it is missing a few of these other projections as well. I specified a manual mount but I think eBay has struck again.


Yeah, I think you got the wrong mount...

These are pictures from RockAuto...

20210504_153434.jpg
20210504_153504.jpg
20210504_153608.jpg
20210504_153543.jpg





It looks like you have the "A6464" instead of the "A6465"
 
Yeah, I think you got the wrong mount...

These are pictures from RockAuto...

View attachment 298189 View attachment 298190 View attachment 298191 View attachment 298192




It looks like you have the "A6464" instead of the "A6465"
Doh... I bought this mount hoping it would fix the rattle on the firewall that started after the rear mount was fitted. These cars don't like rear mounts.... Have reinstalled old mount as it was not torn and seems in good order. Thanks for your help. Cheers Jared
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
The rear mount is a HUGE PITA to replace...

The other three are easy in comparison.

Pick your replacement rear mount carefully.

Normally, the rear mount is replaced to go with a stiffer urethane mount for a sportier ride or because it is torn.

Some guys just replace the other three mounts and leave the rear mount, because it's such a chore.

Normally, guys find that the higher durometer urethane mounts make the whole car buzz and humm and their teeth start to rattle which gets tiresome quickly.

Your rattle on the firewall sounds different.
It sounds like a separate issue.
Maybe something is loose, or wasn't connected properly, or something wasn't tightened properly.

Perhaps the rattle has something to do with the work involved in replacing the rear mount, and not the mount itself?

Try to find the source of the rattle before replacing the rear mount again, in case that won't fix your problem, and you pay for another replacement.

PS...My car is full of rattles and humms, all over the car. I just turn up the stereo and ignore it. Lol
 
The rear mount is a HUGE PITA to replace...

The other three are easy in comparison.

Pick your replacement rear mount carefully.

Normally, the rear mount is replaced to go with a stiffer urethane mount for a sportier ride or because it is torn.

Some guys just replace the other three mounts and leave the rear mount, because it's such a chore.

Normally, guys find that the higher durometer urethane mounts make the whole car buzz and humm and their teeth start to rattle which gets tiresome quickly.

Your rattle on the firewall sounds different.
It sounds like a separate issue.
Maybe something is loose, or wasn't connected properly, or something wasn't tightened properly.

Perhaps the rattle has something to do with the work involved in replacing the rear mount, and not the mount itself?

Try to find the source of the rattle before replacing the rear mount again, in case that won't fix your problem, and you pay for another replacement.

PS...My car is full of rattles and humms, all over the car. I just turn up the stereo and ignore it. Lol
Thanks for the advice. I have a reasonable relationship with my mechanic, so hopefully they can trace it down, the sound forecasts around and will be tricky to find! Rear mount was such a pain to do that I know they will not be wanting to revisit it!
 
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
Based on how difficult I hear it is to replace the rear mount, the best answer for many owners will be to buy a genuine Mazda part. Install a urethane mount that's too harsh, and it's a pain to replace it. Put in an el cheapo part that fails too soon, and it's a pain to replace it. Other options include a jury-rig repair of the mount in-place or just not bothering to fix it at all as pcb mentioned.

I got "lucky" in that my engine was toasted and it was sitting on the ground outside the engine bay. The mechanic told me my rear mount was busted and I got a new one from the Mazda dealer.
 
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Based on how difficult I hear it is to replace the rear mount, the best answer for many owners will be to buy a genuine Mazda part. Install a urethane mount that's too harsh, and it's a pain to replace it. Put in an el cheapo part that fails too soon, and it's a pain to replace it. Other options include a jury-rig repair of the mount in-place or just not bothering to fix it at all as pcb mentioned.

I got "lucky" in that my engine was toasted and it was sitting on the ground outside the engine bay. The mechanic told me my rear mount was busted and I got a new one from the Mazda dealer.
Thanks for that. Totally agreed with this advice. Noted
 

BenjiHoggi

OEM+
:
Oregon, USA
:
22v Protege5
I did a ton of research before replacing my rear mount. I came to basically the same conclusion as katapaltes and many others have about PU vs Aftermarket vs OEM. Went with OEM.

With that said, even after I replaced my front and rear mounts with OEM parts, my car still feels jerky when driving, and takes effort to drive smoothly compared to everything else I've driven. I have a PU insert in my passenger engine mount, and a stock trans mount. I may install my new aftermarket trans mount though and see if that helps. I had AWR PU inserts for the trans mount, but removed them because the horrible vibrations.

All of that to say that mounts on these cars seem to be a big pain point. Probably one of my least favorite parts of the car's design.
 
:
2003 protege 5
I had an issue when i first replaced all my mounts. I went with dea mounts. I believe the rubber is a bit harder than oem and also my rear mount seemed to sag after a few months causing the rubber to sit on the bottom half of the metal circle. This caused alot of vibes in the cabin. I went with awr inserts in the sides a stiff insert up front and i filled my rear mount with 60a liquid urethane. Minimal vibes and i know ill probably never have to change them again. I do have an auto so i cant compare to using the clutch. Also when its in the 30s-40s here in cali it does have a bit more vibes until the engine bay warms up.
Try and look at the rear mount you have now and see if its sagging enough to rest on the bottom of the mount housing. Might be your issue ?
 
I had an issue when i first replaced all my mounts. I went with dea mounts. I believe the rubber is a bit harder than oem and also my rear mount seemed to sag after a few months causing the rubber to sit on the bottom half of the metal circle. This caused alot of vibes in the cabin. I went with awr inserts in the sides a stiff insert up front and i filled my rear mount with 60a liquid urethane. Minimal vibes and i know ill probably never have to change them again. I do have an auto so i cant compare to using the clutch. Also when its in the 30s-40s here in cali it does have a bit more vibes until the engine bay warms up.
Try and look at the rear mount you have now and see if its sagging enough to rest on the bottom of the mount housing. Might be your issue ?
Totally, I have replaced front/ rear and r/h mounts with aftermarket. Kelpro I believe. After checking the L/h transmission mount and finding it to be ok I still had a vibration, it turned out I had some contact between the gearbox and the under engine support brace, this has now been rectified. Car is very smooth now and it may have been age/road contact related, I think it also quitened down my input Shaft bearing, so engine is correctly aligned now, this was done by installing a rubber mount bolted between the gearbox and support strut. But I agree, messing with mounts is a rabbit hole, but I persevered and now it's like a new car.
 
...After checking the L/h transmission mount and finding it to be ok I still had a vibration, it turned out I had some contact between the gearbox and the under engine support brace, this has now been rectified.
Car is very smooth now... this was done by installing a rubber mount bolted between the gearbox and support strut.
I noticed while re-installing my son's transmission and the support beam under it, the beam has a big hole for something (like maybe some kind of insulator) that wasn't there in my case and maybe not yours.

The front of that support beam has rubber isolators between the beam and car body where the bolts go through to mount the beam. The very rear of that beam is bolted into the body metal to metal.

As I tightened the front beam bolts down, the transmission case was resting on the metal beam - metal-to-metal.

I loosened up the front beam bolts and installed a 4"X5" piece of rubber matting about 3/16" thick into that area and tightened up the bolts hoping this will help dampen any vibrations.

Note:
Further researching this issue, I found parts breakdown listing at the link below.

It looks like there are vibration dampers but why would one near the center of the cross beam be on the "underside" of the beam?

See lower drawing of the two on the webpage linked below for the manual transmission parts.


A partial snapshot from the website page is attached below.
 

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