Transmission issues (Loss of power)?

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2020 CX-5 AWD
... He said they have major problem to recruit good techs, compounded by most young generations who are not interested in doing the mechanical work which makes their hands dirty. ....
Way back in time, there were always a bunch of 'car' kids, some of who turned into mechanics (most of them very good ones). But yes, times have changed.

... Not just the Mazda, car manufactures only allow a set labor hours for specific job under warranty. Usually the tech has to work for longer hours than set labor hours for a specific job. ...
And is the main reason why the few top shelf techs quickly figure out they can do much better for themselves by going to work for an indy shop, or even starting one of their own. So the stealerships are fine with just kissing the talented ones good by, instead of paying them what they're worth.

... 3.5 labor hours allowed seems to be correct for the HLA replacement job although a good tech with HLA replacement experience should be able to finish the job within 4 hours without any break.
I took another look the job specs, and there's a lot of parts coming off and on; including (but not limited to) valve cover, both cams and all associated components, timing chain (partial removal), electric VVT motor and actuator, HPFP, and vacuum pump.

So this seems to my DIY mind, to be quite a bit more than a 4 hour job, particularly for a tech with average skill, knowledge, and motivation. However I'll also add that I certainly could be wrong about that, and agree with you that a very good and fast tech who has done this job a number of times, might very well be able to turn it around in 4 hours. In any case, I'm very much hoping to never experience any of this first hand.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
⋯ I took another look the job specs, and there's a lot of parts coming off and on; including (but not limited to) valve cover, both cams and all associated components, timing chain (partial removal), electric VVT motor and actuator, HPFP, and vacuum pump.

So this seems to my DIY mind, to be quite a bit more than a 4 hour job, particularly for a tech with average skill, knowledge, and motivation. However I'll also add that I certainly could be wrong about that, and agree with you that a very good and fast tech who has done this job a number of times, might very well be able to turn it around in 4 hours. In any case, I'm very much hoping to never experience any of this first hand.
I wonder if the new part number 0000-99-SCX5 for pre-assembled cylinder head set kit described in the Service Alert SA-058/20 eventually will be used for replacing 16 HLAs in addition to fallen rocker arms. If the SOP to fix fallen rocker arms by Mazda North American Operations is to replace the whole engine, they might as well just to replace the cylinder head with a pre-assembled one. And the labor involved replacing 16 HLAs is similar to replacing fallen rocker arms. The SA does mention the labor time needs to be reduced for cylinder head replacement job with this new cylinder head assembly.

Service Alert No.: SA-058/20 - NEW CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY ESTABLISHED

NOTE: DO NOT USE the cylinder head replacement labor time listed in Warranty Wizard. That labor time is for a bare head and includes time to swap parts from the original head to the new head. Searching Key Words: Cam Journal, Valve Guide, Intake Valve, Exhaust Valve, Valve Spring, Hydraulic Lifter, Coolant leak, Coolant smell, Warp head, Engine Oil Leak, Oil Smell, Oil leak, Misfire, Low Compression, Excessive Leak Down, Burnt Valves, Rocker Arm
 
OP can always trade in to a 2017 CX5, the car is very similar to a 2018 minues the engine change.....the lower price due to age being a year older may help offset the trade-in cost. With some luck it might be a keys swap or a slight cost to the OP.
 
:
2020 CX-5 AWD
I wonder if the new part number 0000-99-SCX5 for pre-assembled cylinder head set kit described in the Service Alert SA-058/20 eventually will be used for replacing 16 HLAs in addition to fallen rocker arms. ....
That's certainly a possibility in what appears to be some overall strategy and plan by Mazda Corp for this collection of CD-related issues. Time will tell about that I guess.

After finding out about this cylinder head alert last year, I took a print of it to my local Mazda parts dept in September, when I went in to buy an oil filter. The guy behind the counter was wearing a 'parts manager' badge or patch, so I figured he would be very much up to speed on what was going on with it.

But when I handed the paper to him and asked for his take on it, he said that he had never seen it before, and didn't know anything about the program! No idea how these things get communicated, but I would have thought he would have at least been aware of it, a month after being issued. Turns out I was obviously way too optimistic about that.

Maybe it's best to just put on the rose colored glasses and assume they've never had any CD-related engine problems, and don't feel the need to pay attention to any alerts related to that subject :rolleyes:
 
Way back in time, there were always a bunch of 'car' kids, some of who turned into mechanics (most of them very good ones). But yes, times have changed.


And is the main reason why the few top shelf techs quickly figure out they can do much better for themselves by going to work for an indy shop, or even starting one of their own. So the stealerships are fine with just kissing the talented ones good by, instead of paying them what they're worth.


I took another look the job specs, and there's a lot of parts coming off and on; including (but not limited to) valve cover, both cams and all associated components, timing chain (partial removal), electric VVT motor and actuator, HPFP, and vacuum pump.

So this seems to my DIY mind, to be quite a bit more than a 4 hour job, particularly for a tech with average skill, knowledge, and motivation. However I'll also add that I certainly could be wrong about that, and agree with you that a very good and fast tech who has done this job a number of times, might very well be able to turn it around in 4 hours. In any case, I'm very much hoping to never experience any of this first hand.
So just for a little explanation. The first one was done by a standard tech. When it came back in for the timing deal the 2nd time, they put the shop foreman on it. The noises I first heard (they wrote tickling but I actually said it was more like a loose exhaust shield sound-wise), are no longer there after seal and hla's. So that's good. My idle is much smoother as far as feel in the wheel. It just overall sounds better. They had told me that they cleaned up all the oil that had sprayed under the hood.I hadn't checked until today (got it back last week) how the engine compartment looked. I am absolutely blown away by how well they cleaned up under there! You can't even tell anything happened! I think there's no way to get it that clean other than while you're disassembling the parts for the hla and timing seal, you soak them in a degreaser and brush them. i mean all the surfaces looked new. I'm so impressed by that tech and the facility in general! The advisor thanked me for being so kind to which I responded that I was upset to bring it back but you catch more bees with honey than vinegar and that mistakes happen. Still debating if I should call about this power issue. Everything else is running and sounding great!
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
So just for a little explanation. The first one was done by a standard tech. When it came back in for the timing deal the 2nd time, they put the shop foreman on it. The noises I first heard (they wrote tickling but I actually said it was more like a loose exhaust shield sound-wise), are no longer there after seal and hla's. So that's good. My idle is much smoother as far as feel in the wheel. It just overall sounds better. They had told me that they cleaned up all the oil that had sprayed under the hood.I hadn't checked until today (got it back last week) how the engine compartment looked. I am absolutely blown away by how well they cleaned up under there! You can't even tell anything happened! I think there's no way to get it that clean other than while you're disassembling the parts for the hla and timing seal, you soak them in a degreaser and brush them. i mean all the surfaces looked new. I'm so impressed by that tech and the facility in general! The advisor thanked me for being so kind to which I responded that I was upset to bring it back but you catch more bees with honey than vinegar and that mistakes happen. Still debating if I should call about this power issue. Everything else is running and sounding great!
I always feel if a dealer is willing to spend time and effort to the vehicle repair, they’re the best with all the technical resources and genuine parts. In your case, if lack of power behavior (down-shifting when going up the hill), and poor gas mileage (25 mpg on the highway) are still there, you should find time to visit the dealer again trying to fix the problem before the warranty expires.

And make sure to check the oil level often to verify if there’s oil consumption issue.
 
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2018 CX-5 Sport
I am surprised that they changed all 16 lifters and not just the 8 CD lifters, like they did for the other poster.

"The car says my mpg is 29 but my actual seems more like 25." You need to determine your actual mpg without guessing, and if it is only 25 on the highway then your car has a definitive problem you can have them address. Highway driving at 65mpg you should get 32-34 mpg. 29 is probably reasonable. It may well be a program update is needed to change the shift points.

The way my 2018 Sport behaves on a steep hill is, it doesn't want to downshift. But I drive it in such a way that I encourage it not to downshift by giving it less gas. If someone zooms up behind me and tailgates then I do have to give it gas and it will down shift.

Going down the hill, the clutch is locked and the motor slows the car. It will build up speed and I need to brake but it doesn't coast like it is free wheeling in neutral.
 
I am surprised that they changed all 16 lifters and not just the 8 CD lifters, like they did for the other poster.

"The car says my mpg is 29 but my actual seems more like 25." You need to determine your actual mpg without guessing, and if it is only 25 on the highway then your car has a definitive problem you can have them address. Highway driving at 65mpg you should get 32-34 mpg. 29 is probably reasonable. It may well be a program update is needed to change the shift points.

The way my 2018 Sport behaves on a steep hill is, it doesn't want to downshift. But I drive it in such a way that I encourage it not to downshift by giving it less gas. If someone zooms up behind me and tailgates then I do have to give it gas and it will down shift.

Going down the hill, the clutch is locked and the motor slows the car. It will build up speed and I need to brake but it doesn't coast like it is free wheeling in neutral.
i've been calculating gas mileage on it now for a few tanks. actual mileage is like 23 with mostly highway driving. It's just so weird. With the loaners i had, giving it just a little gas even on a slight incline would at least maintain speed if not speed it up without down-shifting. Every time I drive it has to downshift on the slightest hill like something is rubbing or holding it back. Also, it seems to take a little for the motor to "realize" i'm hitting the gas and then i don't experience power until a few seconds later. The transmission has been shifting oddly too. For instance, going up a hill and down-shifting and jumping to 3k plus rpms to maintain speed and then immediately upshifting to bring rpms down where it again lacks the "power" to keep up speed and just drones and then upshifts again. I'm waiting on my wife and daughter to get second corona shot, then definitely taking it in. At least the timing cover gasket is still holding. This is so frustrating to me at 26k for a vehicle i bought for reliability. I've learned some valuable lessons.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
i've been calculating gas mileage on it now for a few tanks. actual mileage is like 23 with mostly highway driving. It's just so weird.
it’s not weird, your 2018 CX-5 with only 26K miles simply is having problems.

With the loaners i had, giving it just a little gas even on a slight incline would at least maintain speed if not speed it up without down-shifting. Every time I drive it has to downshift on the slightest hill like something is rubbing or holding it back. Also, it seems to take a little for the motor to "realize" i'm hitting the gas and then i don't experience power until a few seconds later. The transmission has been shifting oddly too. For instance, going up a hill and down-shifting and jumping to 3k plus rpms to maintain speed and then immediately upshifting to bring rpms down where it again lacks the "power" to keep up speed and just drones and then upshifts again. I'm waiting on my wife and daughter to get second corona shot, then definitely taking it in.
Yes, do take your CX-5 in for a diagnosis of your problem with all the evidences after you feel safe and before your warranty expires.

At least the timing cover gasket is still holding.
I guess this’s lucky for you as one member here took his CX-5 back 3 times trying to fix the same timing chain cover leak issue and still see some seepage.

This is so frustrating to me at 26k for a vehicle i bought for reliability. I've learned some valuable lessons.
Yeah, things happen. And it’s always more likely getting a used car with problems. And I truly believe this’s the reason why the previous owner dumped this CX-5 so early.
 
it’s not weird, your 2018 CX-5 with only 26K miles simply is having problems.


Yes, do take your CX-5 in for a diagnosis of your problem with all the evidences after you feel safe and before your warranty expires.


I guess this’s lucky for you as one member here took his CX-5 back 3 times trying to fix the same timing chain cover leak issue and still see some seepage.


Yeah, things happen. And it’s always more likely getting a used car with problems. And I truly believe this’s the reason why the previous owner dumped this CX-5 so early.
Maybe, but also it was leased just before me. Lease probably ran out. But that's why I thought getting cpo would help. It is I guess considering no pay for repairs so far.
 
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2017 Mazda 6 Sport
I still say that comparing the shifting of a 3 year old model to a brand new one isn't a good way to judge if it's working right
 
I still say that comparing the shifting of a 3 year old model to a brand new one isn't a good way to judge if it's working right
Even without that comparison, something isn't right. I have a knack for knowing when something isn't right with cars in general. The feel, the sound, the smell. Convincing mechanics has always been the issue but I've never been wrong so far. It either gets noticed by an excellent tech, or will break shortly after to where it can't be ignored. Unfortunately, I'm on a time clock with cpo.
 
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2017 Mazda 6 Sport
Even without that comparison, something isn't right. I have a knack for knowing when something isn't right with cars in general. The feel, the sound, the smell. Convincing mechanics has always been the issue but I've never been wrong so far. It either gets noticed by an excellent tech, or will break shortly after to where it can't be ignored. Unfortunately, I'm on a time clock with cpo.
The CPO powertrain warranty is 7 years/100k miles. You might be thinking of the CPO basic warranty which adds 1 year/12k miles to whatever is left of the original bumper to bumper warranty. Do you know what the in-service date was for your CX5? It should be in your CPO paperwork

You could also try checking the dealers used car inventory for a non-turbo 2018 CX5 that you test drive. That would give a better apples to apples comparison
 
:
2020 CX-5 AWD
i've been calculating gas mileage on it now for a few tanks. actual mileage is like 23 with mostly highway driving ...
Can you describe exactly what 'mostly' is for this driving? And also, did you ever do this same calculation when you first acquired the vehicle? My first reaction would be to say that your current fuel economy is poor, but the devil is in the details, and one or two factors can make a big difference.

FWIW, here's a comparison from my vehicle, with the following parameters. We take a number of 900 mile trips to visit family, and travel I90/I84. I set cruise to either 74 or 79, and drive for many hours continuously at one of those speeds, often with no slowdowns at all. This highway mileage on my vehicle is always solidly at 30MPG or slightly above it (calculated).

Although I don't know what the 'optimal' fuel efficient MPH for my CX-5 is, I would presume that those speeds I'm travelling at are quite a bit above optimal. So if I ever did drive strictly at the actual optimal speed, I'm guessing the MPG might go up by 3-4.

So, depending on what your 'mostly' actually is, it sounds like your vehicle definitely has an issue, and is using too much fuel. It would be very interesting to see what the OBD fuel trim readings are for your vehicle.
 
Can you describe exactly what 'mostly' is for this driving? And also, did you ever do this same calculation when you first acquired the vehicle? My first reaction would be to say that your current fuel economy is poor, but the devil is in the details, and one or two factors can make a big difference.

FWIW, here's a comparison from my vehicle, with the following parameters. We take a number of 900 mile trips to visit family, and travel I90/I84. I set cruise to either 74 or 79, and drive for many hours continuously at one of those speeds, often with no slowdowns at all. This highway mileage on my vehicle is always solidly at 30MPG or slightly above it (calculated).

Although I don't know what the 'optimal' fuel efficient MPH for my CX-5 is, I would presume that those speeds I'm travelling at are quite a bit above optimal. So if I ever did drive strictly at the actual optimal speed, I'm guessing the MPG might go up by 3-4.

So, depending on what your 'mostly' actually is, it sounds like your vehicle definitely has an issue, and is using too much fuel. It would be very interesting to see what the OBD fuel trim readings are for your vehicle.
Certainly. I would say 80 percent of my driving is highway at a cruise set at either 60 or 70 (depending on the highway). The other 20% is 25 mph with occasional stop lights but never bumper to bumper. I almost never have to brake on the highway and the trips are always 20 minutes plus. I never did this calculation at the beginning but I've always had power issues from the beginning when I bought. I thought the timing seal and hla's would have solved it. It just never felt right. Still doesn't.
 

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