I have one of those already too. I haven’t used it on this car yet. I’ll need to get familiar with the live information portion. Thanks.You use a bluetooth or wifi OBD2 device that plugs into your car, and you monitor the ATF temp on your phone. I had mine plugged in with the engine idling, and had my phone on the front ledge of the car, watching the temp come up. When it got to 122 I pulled the dipstick out to check the fluid level.
In my case, I had to look at the type of miles driven rather than go by other people's or recommended mileage intervals when servicing my CX-5. As opposed to some others, most of my driving is local "around town" so to speak, not bumper to bumper slow moving city but shorter hops of maybe 5-10 miles. Certainly not the easy highway miles. There's a lot of stops and lots of transmission shifts. Therefore, I did 2 drain and fills at 44,000 miles and wish I had done it sooner. The improvement in shifting and overall feeling of 'smoothness' was noticeable.Since you can't get all the fluid out by just draining once, and you have to actually do it at least 3 times using 12 quarts of fluid (expensive) to end up with mostly new fluid, I like the idea of doing the first drain/fill at 100K and then every 50K thereafter. Or every 50K if you really want to be extra safe.
Just remember that the gearbox is a closed system, not subjected to all the vapors and blow-by that engine oil sees, so the fluid lasts much longer. And most of the metal shavings in the factory fill and on the magnet are from the gearbox's initial break-in from when it was new. So each drain/refill after that first one shouldn't have nearly as much metal in it.
Again, thanks for sharing you experience!Hey folks I just completed my 3rd drain and fill, but decided to drop the pan and change the filter. First time I drained and filled about 3.7 quarts, 2nd time also 3.7, and this last one I got out 5 full quarts and 5 went back in, which put it on the dipstick mark with engine running and 122 ATF temp.
Doing the math that means only ~12% of the old fluid should be left in there, based on 8.2 quart total capacity.
whole job cost me about $200 for 14 quarts of FZ fluid, the filter, 4 new pan bolts to replace the rusted ones, and a tube of Mazda pan sealant. The sealant smells exactly like Permatex Ultra Gray, but it includes this genius key looking device for rolling up the tube and squeezing out the sealant. It’s worth 10 bucks just for that IMHO.
Ah yes it was 13, I started with 12 and then bought one extra from the dealership.Again, thanks for sharing you experience!
One thing to clarify on ATF amount needed for 2 drain-and-fills and 1 ATF pan drop with filter cartridge replacement: 3.7 + 3.7 + 5 = 12.4 quarts ~ 13 quarts of ATF FZ instead of 14 quarts?
And in your opinion, is it better doing the pan drop with filter change first than doing the pan drop last like you did?
IMO your ATF change schedule is excessive. ATF is in a sealed environment and there’s no blown-by gases and fuel to contaminate the fluid like the engine oil. The only reason for me to do the first ATF change with pan drop a bit earlier than 60K miles is trying to clean up the crud and sludge stuck on the magnet and ATF pan, although they should stay put there with no harm to the transmission. And based on UOA on the ATF posted by others, the ATF FZ from factory is fine for 70K+ miles.I’m still trying to decide what to do. I talked to the independent mechanic that I use here the other day. He's the one that I would have taken Mazda fluid to and had him machine flush it, before I found out these are sealed units. I'm just approaching 30k miles. He suggested, rather than trying to do 3 flushes in a row in my gravel driveway, that I start now, early in the transmission's life, and do one D&F every 15k or so. I may do that. Or, I might even do 2 now, then one every three oil changes from then on, and just keep track of how the fluid looks and how it shifts. That's basically what I used to do with our last Subaru, and it seemed to stay healthy.
Yes Mazda Genuine ATF FZ is made by Idemitzu. If you can get Idemitzu ATF FZ that should be fine. But you can order OEM Mazda ATF FZ online easily, especially from Med Center Mazda which offers free shipping with order over $100.I know it’s buried in this thread somewhere, but did I read that this tranny fluid is an Idemitzu product? If so, does anyone know the number off the top of your head. I can usually source their stuff locally, rather than having to depend on a dealer that’s 3 hours away.