Transmission fluid change without filter replacement

:
2016 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring AWD
I found that this worked perfectly for the fill part of the procedure (I didn't have a long funnel), and it's an exact fit for the Mazda ATF quart bottles. WalMart and AutoZone carry it too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4UXM/?tag=m20b7-20

31TgTT3drVL.jpg


To get a precise read of the ATF temp, and with the kind assistance of Kedis82ZE8 in another thread, I used this. *** WARNING *** It's way too easy to get addicted to setting up dashboards to monitor every facet of the car's performance! (evil)

http://www.obdlink.com/mxp/

41sckqj46LL.jpg
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Transmission fluid change without filter replacement Reply to Thread

I found that this worked perfectly for the fill part of the procedure (I didn't have a long funnel), and it's an exact fit for the Mazda ATF quart bottles. WalMart and AutoZone carry it too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4UXM/?tag=m20b7-20

31TgTT3drVL.jpg
Yes I have this filler tube from WalMart and use it for filling the rear differential on my Honda CR-V.

To get a precise read of the ATF temp, and with the kind assistance of Kedis82ZE8 in another thread, I used this. *** WARNING *** It's way too easy to get addicted to setting up dashboards to monitor every facet of the car's performance! (evil)

http://www.obdlink.com/mxp/

41sckqj46LL.jpg
It seems you guys like this OBDII reader, I may need to get one for the future ATF change.
 

Kedis82ZE8

'15 CX-5 GT AWD, '12 GX 460, '07 G35x
Contributor
:
'15 CX-5 GT AWD
Here is what I just discovered.

- Like my other cars probably easier to start with a cold car than a hot one. I had to let the car a long time to cool down as expect.

- I put on front ramps and remove the entire bottom plastics. Pretty easy with an electric screwdriver and a trim remover. I did this another few times inspecting for my oil leak of past which rear main seal is holding fine but found something else I will post in another thread.

- Loosened 10mm AT plug retaining bolt using long handle extension and then unscrewed with fingers from bottom. I could have done this easily with a ratchet on bottom.

- I jacked up rear of car and used jack stands and used a level to determine it was level.

- Started car up when coolant got down around 120 and AT fluid was down to like 108. This started to get fluid up to temp shortly

- Pulled out dipstick and at 122F it was just shy of the minimum range.

- Pulled car off jack-stands and backed off ramps.

- By this time AT had warmed up to 130F but I noticed I could still get at dipstick and for certain flat there. At this temp it had just started to cross the low fill mark.

So I have a factory low fill but not sure by how many ounces.

Any theories on how many ounces the 122F range on the dipstick from top to bottom might be?

I am going to drain flat on the ground and fill from the top with funnel. Filling from bottom would be kind of a PIA.

EDIT: Also remember that dipstick snaps into place and should be flush with the AT case.

EDIT: Of course shouldn't be too hard for me to add a few ounces and re-check as well.
 
Last edited:

ColoradoDriver

Gen-1 Kodo Design
Contributor
:
Denver, CO
:
2014 CX-5 Touring
Here is what I just discovered.

- Like my other cars probably easier to start with a cold car than a hot one. I had to let the car a long time to cool down as expect.

- I put on front ramps and remove the entire bottom plastics. Pretty easy with an electric screwdriver and a trim remover. I did this another few times inspecting for my oil leak of past which rear main seal is holding fine but found something else I will post in another thread.

- Loosened 10mm AT plug retaining bolt using long handle extension and then unscrewed with fingers from bottom. I could have done this easily with a ratchet on bottom.

- I jacked up rear of car and used jack stands and used a level to determine it was level.

- Started car up when coolant got down around 120 and AT fluid was down to like 108. This started to get fluid up to temp shortly

- Pulled out dipstick and at 122F it was just shy of the minimum range.

- Pulled car off jack-stands and backed off ramps.

- By this time AT had warmed up to 130F but I noticed I could still get at dipstick and for certain flat there. At this temp it had just started to cross the low fill mark.

So I have a factory low fill but not sure by how many ounces.

Any theories on how many ounces the 122F range on the dipstick from top to bottom might be?

I am going to drain flat on the ground and fill from the top with funnel. Filling from bottom would be kind of a PIA.

EDIT: Also remember that dipstick snaps into place and should be flush with the AT case.

EDIT: Of course shouldn't be too hard for me to add a few ounces and re-check as well.
Keep in mind the level should be perfectly within the square between both lines on the dipstick. Not really a min max situation here.
 

ColoradoDriver

Gen-1 Kodo Design
Contributor
:
Denver, CO
:
2014 CX-5 Touring
Mine was just shy of this lower mark at 122F

111117777.png
If that red mark was where yours is, that was the same as mine.

I drained 3.5 qts from factory fill, after some experimentation, a refill of 3.7 qts got my level in the marker.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
Mine was just shy of this lower mark at 122F

111117777.png
So another conformation that Mazda low-filled ATF from factory to our automatic transmission. The same on engine oil, engine coolant, and rear differential. I don't know what to say.

For those who use the quantity drained as the measurement to refill the ATF, you simply can't do that. You have to measure the ATF level at proper temperature with dipstick.

I'd guess you would need about 3.7 quarts to refill for proper ATF level at 122F similar to what ColoradoDriver had found.
 

Kedis82ZE8

'15 CX-5 GT AWD, '12 GX 460, '07 G35x
Contributor
:
'15 CX-5 GT AWD
I will measure out to the fluid ounce but good to know on likely 3.7 quart refill. I do agree for all owners and all years. Even if you are far from service replacement mileage check your fluid levels on all fluid serviceable areas. I'm gonna space my 3 AT fluid swaps a few hundred miles apart. I also plan to keep my underbody splash shields off until I am done with this service project.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
I will measure out to the fluid ounce but good to know on likely 3.7 quart refill. I do agree for all owners and all years. Even if you are far from service replacement mileage check your fluid levels on all fluid serviceable areas. I'm gonna space my 3 AT fluid swaps a few hundred miles apart. I also plan to keep my underbody splash shields off until I am done with this service project.
And only use a new aluminum drain plug washer during the 3rd ATF change.

BTW, did you have to push away the whole air box like Speedie95 described in order to access the ATF dipstick from top?
 

Kedis82ZE8

'15 CX-5 GT AWD, '12 GX 460, '07 G35x
Contributor
:
'15 CX-5 GT AWD
I've actually got a bunch of spare washers now but good note.

I accessed my dipstick from the bottom with splash-shield off. I will be filling from top with long reach funnel. Nothing moved on the topside.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
I've actually got a bunch of spare washers now but good note.

I accessed my dipstick from the bottom with splash-shield off. I will be filling from top with long reach funnel. Nothing moved on the topside.
tomcat1446 had mentioned in the How-To thread that be careful of the dirt accumulated around the dipstick by bad design and they would easily to fall into ATF fill hole when you pull the dipstick. By accessing the dipstick from bottom, you can't really see and control the accumulated dirt.

just FYI, I was able to check the transmission dipstick WITHOUT having to disassemble the air intake........

I can understand why some may want to, it makes it easier, but just giving another option that it's not necessary......


first need to drop the plastic panels, for the CX-5 you DO NOT NEED to lift up the front of the car,

there is more than enough clearance.





these are the type of screws to remove, some philips, some 10mm, and some 8mm panel fasteners...




here is picture from underneath, you can easily access the dipstick and dipstick bolt:


it is reachable from underneath:








there's plenty of room to get a stubby ratchet with 10mm socket





the bolt holding down the dipstick is 10mm size:


this picture shows the dipstick can easily be removed from underneath without having to disassemble the air intake


dipstick reading, hard to tell but looks ok to me, not low not high, just in the middle.... fluid is super clean though, I have 16,000 odometer miles


as others have mentioned, Mazda design allows dirt to accumulate as shown:


dirt can get under the dipstick, I cleaned it carefully making sure dirt doesn't go down the hole:
I ripped a small piece of my detailing clay bar and used clay slowly over the dirt and the clay grabbed most of the debris,
then like Gova used a damp cleaning wipe to clean the remaining residue, worked quite well, obviously, I threw out the clay,
no way I was going to use it again for detailing, the encased debris will cause scratches.



make sure to clean off dirt on O-ring before putting it back in:



tools used:

safety glasses, stubby ratchet with 10mm socket

gloves, one of my mechanic friends gave me this tip, use old golf or batting gloves, a lot more dexterity, works great!!


panel fastener tool remover:


my trusty Worx for the underpanel 10mm scrwes, my wife thinks it looks like a gun :)


probably do drain and fill at around 35,000 miles, will do as above and measure what drains out and get a long flexible tube funnel and pour back thru the dipstick hole the same amount. I like the fact that car can be done level on the ground, and no need to remove air intake assembly; just need to remove the plastic paneling which needs to be done anyway to get to the transmission drain plug, and most of all can do it myself without going to dealer, I'm sure those monkeys would get tons of dirt into the fill hole.

also just an FYI, if you plan to drain and fill, I recommend changing the aluminum washer, thanks to yrwei52, here's the part number, Mazda 99564-1400 (same washer for the engine oil plug)




.
 

Kedis82ZE8

'15 CX-5 GT AWD, '12 GX 460, '07 G35x
Contributor
:
'15 CX-5 GT AWD
I could see topside there wasn't any debris around dipstick. You can see it from the top and in fact loosened the retaining bolt from the top. There wasn't any dirt on my o-ring when I pulled it out either. Conditions may vary though on everyone's vehicle.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
I could see topside there wasn't any debris around dipstick. You can see it from the top and in fact loosened the retaining bolt from the top. There wasn't any dirt on my o-ring when I pulled it out either. Conditions may vary though on everyone's vehicle.
Good to know!
 

ColoradoDriver

Gen-1 Kodo Design
Contributor
:
Denver, CO
:
2014 CX-5 Touring
So another conformation that Mazda low-filled ATF from factory to our automatic transmission. The same on engine oil, engine coolant, and rear differential. I don't know what to say.

For those who use the quantity drained as the measurement to refill the ATF, you simply can't do that. You have to measure the ATF level at proper temperature with dipstick.

I'd guess you would need about 3.7 quarts to refill for proper ATF level at 122F similar to what ColoradoDriver had found.
This assumes Kedis drains the same 3.5qts I do. I'd say whatever you end up draining, just add .2 qts more.