Thinking of turbocharging your P5? Here's a guide for getting started...

neox.286

it's neoX, not neoN lol
V
2003 Spicy Orange MSP
I have composed a list of ALL the mechanical parts you will need to turbocharge your protege....other than this you will need to figure out how you plan to take care of your fuel management on your own

1. Turbo, GT2554R (<--stock), GT2560R, GT2860RS, GT2871R, GT2876R
2. Wastegate (OEM is internal)
3. Turbo inlet gasket
4. Turbo discharge gasket
5. Manifold
6. Manifold -> Head gasket
7. S-pipe
8. S-pipe -> J-pipe gasket
9. J-pipe
10. Hot pipe
12. Intercooler
13. Cold pipe
14. All couplers for the intercooler pipes
15. Blow off valve or Bypass valve
16. Oil feed line
17. Oil return line
18. Water feed line
19. Water return line
20. Water feed rubber connection
21. Water return connection
22. Water feed -> turbo metal connection
23. Turbo -> water return metal connection
24. Oil feed -> adapter plate fitting
25. Oil return oil-pan fitting
26. Oil adapter plate
27. Oil feed -> turbo fitting
28. Turbo -> oil return fitting
29. Turbo oil return gasket


oil feed line:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-015&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1
oil feed -> adapter plate fitting:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-006&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1
oil adapter plate:
http://prosportgauges.com/oil-filter-adaptor-plate.aspx
oil feed -> turbo fitting:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-029&Category_Code=GRT
oil return line:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-024&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1
oil return -> oil pan fitting:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-015&Category_Code=ATP-OIL2
turbo -> oil return fitting:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-031&Category_Code=GRT
turbo oil return gasket:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-GSK-008&Category_Code=GRT
water feed banjo fitting:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-004&Category_Code=ATP-FTG1
water feed hose:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-025&Category_Code=ATP-FTG1
(need 3 feet min, to be cut down)
wastegate:
--http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-011B&Category_Code=VMSP
--(^^^ this is the oem wastegate, you may replace this with any of the following ones instead...)
--http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-019&Category_Code=VMSP
--http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-WGT-028&Category_Code=VMSP
--(^^^ the above two fit MUCH better with a larger than stock turbo as they clear the compressor housing MUCH better)
--http://siteground207.com/~protegeg/product_info.php?cPath=32_181&products_id=1095
--(^^^ this wastegate is adjustable, meaning you set the boost level you want with it...good for those who want really low boost or want the wastegate set to 10 psi rather than using a boost controller)

...continued, the rest ARE needed, I just seperated the OEM parts by part number rather than direct URLs

here are the OEM part numbers, and the water line part numbers:
(I highly recommend ordering these from www.onlinemazdaparts.com)

water return fitting:
0000-88-C54
water feed (block side) assembly:
0000-88-C77
0000-88-C79 (x2)
water feed -> turbo metal connection:
0000-88-C50
0000-88-C27
0000-88-C52
turbo -> water return metal connection:
0000-88-C49
0000-88-C50
0000-88-C27
turbo inlet gasket:
0000-88-C17
turbo outlet gasket:
0000-88-C19
S-pipe -> J-pipe gasket:
KL19-40-450
Exhaust manifold -> Head gasket:
Exhaust system, Manifold, Manifold, Gasket, Gasket - 2.0 liter - 2.0 liter
(couldn't locate part number for the last one, but go to the site and use the above entry to get through the catalog hierarchy and find the part...assuming you are at www.onlinemazdaparts.com)









KEY-POINTS:

Water supply
For water supply you have very limited options, so I have listed above the best choices I can see

--For water return, the MSP utilizes a special three-way rubber fitting that mates right up to the turbo's metal water line perfectly, this is your BEST option (and only option really...)

--For water feed, on the back of the block (just above the oil filter) is a connection where you will mount a banjo fitting. You will use the oem fitting, which basically extends the already existing fitting out further, coupled with the banjo->hose fitting from ATP turbo. You will attach a length of 3/8" rubber hose from the ATP turbo banjo fitting to the water feed metal connection on the turbo.

Optional alternative:
--Rather than using the special three-way rubber fitting from mazda (which has been known to crack in the past, however it has since been revised and seems like it holds up nicely so far) you can tap straight into the coolant passageway on the cylinder head (drivers side) with a barbed fitting for water supply...then use a rubber or silicone hose to connect from this barbed fitting to the water supply line on the turbo...this way also works quite well and is significantly cheaper, however it is not reversable once you have done it unless you replace the water supply box on the cylinder head
Barbed fitting:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-022&Category_Code=ATP-FTG1
Rubber hose:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-025&Category_Code=BCS
(Special thanks to mspHtown for this option)

Optional alternative #2:
--Diverting the water lines that go to the throttle body to the turbo instead. The water lines that go through the throttle body are only meant for extremely cold conditions where it is possible for the throttle to get seized open or closed, the water running through the throttle body is meant to keep it warm. In theory, you should see horsepower gains from using this method since you are lowering the intake air temperatures. In reality however, the gains are minimal if even noticeable once the car has warmed up. This is an easy option, however if you live in a very cold environment I would steer away from this option.
(Special thanks to fLyPiNoY7 and kz9 for reminding me of this option)


Oil supply
Oil supply you have a few different options, again I have listed the optimal choices above.

--For oil feed there are two different options:
1. You can utilize ALL OEM components, which you can find all the part numbers for yourself at this link -> CLICKY
2. You can utilize an oil-filter-adapter-plate (from prosport gauges, or glowshift if you want...either works)...you will use the fitting from ATP turbo (1.8 npt -> -4 AN) and couple it with the -4AN braided oil line from ATP....The advantage of -4AN is that it is the OEM size and will mate up with OEM fittings if you go the OEM route....The advantage of using the adapter plate, and the reason I recommend it, is that you can also use the adapter plate to mount an Oil Pressure gauge sender or Oil Temperature gauge sender...These two gauges are CRUICIAL to this car as the oil system in the Protege is far less than par...<------This is the route I choose for the parts list above

--For oil return you also have two options:
1. You can utilize the OEM assembly. This would require you to have the Mazdaspeed windage tray, (the girder plate the fits between the oil pan and the block), as well as the OEM oil return plate and gasket...the MSP windage tray is a large piece and is NOT cheap, it is unneeded and a complete waste of money
2. You will take the barbed fitting from ATP turbo and weld it into your oil pan (as high up on the oil pan as possible)...then you will have a rubber hose between the turbo and the welded barbed fitting <------This is the route I choose for the parts list above

--The MSP oil cooler:
The MSP comes with an oil cooler, which fits between the oil filter and block as a kind of 'adapter plate' and has water run through it. It has been asked MANY times by those piecing together a kit if you need this part and the answer is NO, you do not need it. PLENTY of people run without the oil cooler (myself included in the past) and don't run into trouble. That being said it can't HURT anything to run it




Intercooling
You have two options when intercooling your turbo setup, front-mount (FMIC) or side-mount (SMIC)...For the n00bs a smic is mounted basically as a part of your radiator
I'm going to say it once: The stock block CANNOT take more than 10 psi daily driven without eventually giving up on you (even properly tuned)...that being said, the stock turbo is NOT efficient enough to require a front-mount intercooler until you have surpassed 10 psi...this means that running a front mount intercooler is going to likely cause you to LOOSE power over the option of an upgraded side mount intercooler

I'm sorry, but it's a fact.

That being said, with a side-mount you will encounter heat-soak (due to it's close proximity to the radiator), which will cause power-loss in stop and go traffic...does this power loss exceed the amount of power you loose with a front mount at stock boost levels? YES.....will this extra power make up for the copious amounts of turbo-lag you will get with a front mount? probably not

Now, there is ONE option you have for getting the best of both worlds: the Turbolife (preferred) or Perrin front mount intercoolers...both are identical, except the turbolife has a slightly different flow characteristic in the core that causes it to see better gains than the Perrin (and at a much better price)....the reason these are the best of both worlds is that they have the short piping of a side mount with the better cooling (and lack of heatsoak) of the front mount...unfortunately though, the turbolife is very hard to get as it was a limited run, and the perrin has also been discontinued...you can still find them used, but it will be harder to locate

----OEM side mount parts
Here are all the parts you will need for the OEM side mount assembly (including piping):
OEM Side mount intercooler:
RF4P-13-565A
OEM Hot pipe:
0000-88-C57
OEM Cold pipe:
0000-88-C58
Compressor outlet -> hotpipe clamp / hotpipt -> side mount clamp:
0000-88-C85 (x2)
Coldpipe -> throttle body clamp:
0000-88-C86
MSP upper radiator hose:
0000-88-C71
MSP lower radiator hose:
0000-88-C70
NOTE!
I do not have the part numbers for the radiator and the radiator brackets, however you WILL need the following parts as well:
--MSP Radiator
--MSP Radiator brackets (these ARE different from the P5 brackets, the radiator is taller)
--MSP Fans (both)

NOTE:
For the OEM msp side mount you WILL also need to have the MSP a/c condensor, the side mount is rather thick and does not sit flush with the backside of the radiator, it does hit the a/c condensor and causes it to not fit at all....you will need the following:
MSP a/c condensor
MSP a/c compressor -> condensor hose/metal-line
MSP a/c condensor -> dryer hose/metal-line

When I can find it I will update this with the part numbers for these parts
You will also need the OEM msp primary fan, the secondary (a/c) fan is not different. Since the oem side mount also uses the shorter radiator you will need the radiator, the upper radiator hose, and the two upper mounting brackets to install the radiator.
If you are boosting an auto AND are changing to a new radiator other than the auto n/a radiator:
You will need an aftermarket transmission cooler as well. Nothing big.



Tuning
You have several options here.
1. OEM msp ECU, which plugs into the n/a 2.0L five-speed ecu and fully functions. This will not work with the automatic 2.0L n/a protege ecu harness
2. BEGI FMU + an O2 sensor voltage clamp from Flyin' Miata. This will allow for very nice tunability and very smooth and accurate a/f ratios, from my experience. I highly recommend this setup.
3. SS AFC: I've heard good and bad things about this setup. Friends have had trouble getting a proper tune out of this when running the automatic ecu, others have no problems. It's up to you
4. SS FTC: I have not had experience with this, nor have I heard a lot of reviews of this. However, it seems like a MUCH better option for us than the AFC because it is more accurate. I do not recommend this if you do not have somewhat moderate plans for your car, on either side of 'somewhat moderate'.
5. Standalone: WAY overkill if you do not have huge plans for the car, however it is the best option you have because it is far easier to just tell the car what to do rather than having to 'trick' the ECU into doing what you want it to do (the FTC is a better option here because it offers this feature without all the rest of the gadgets of a standalone)
6. Unichip: Plug and play and tuneable (but only by professional Unichip certified shops). A good option, but not plug and play for autos and only tuneable if you fork out money to someone to have it professionally tuned.
(I'll add more options tomorrow)



ALL exhaust studs, nuts, and bolts are 8mm x 1.25 pitch (other than the smaller bolts that hold on the heat shields)...this theme translates to most of the rest of the engine as well...keep a boxful of 8mm x 1.25 pitch bolts, studs, lock washers, and nuts on hand...you are going to need them later on



hope this guide helps you on your path!
(sticky?)


alternative 'kits' you can buy:
http://www.cpboost.com/product14.html



NOTE about AWR deep sump oil pan:
From experience I've seen that fitment is NOT gauranteed. I've seen that it fits fine, and I've also experienced that it does not clear the passenger side control arm. You may need to modify it to clear the passenger side control arm by having a shop cut a small portion out of the rear passenger bottom side of the pan. If you would like to use the GTSpec lower tie bar as well, you can use this to your advantage and have them cut it at an angle steep enough to clear the bar, it will fit fine otherwise.
Diagram:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e247/Mr-Gib/AWRfitmentproblem.png
The red area is what did not clear for me, though this isn't always a problem...if you run into issues, you will need to cut the oil pan back to match up with what the blue line shows. Most welding shops can do the work because the pan is steel. If you would also like to have your oil pan clear the GTSpec lower tie bar, please use the above diagram. You will need to cut back enough for it to clear. If you cut it at an angle this shouldn't affect the pan's design and should minimize the loss of oil capacity, this will also aid in better oil drainage because the oil will be diverted towards the drain bolt.
 
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mx-p5

Team Fail Motorsports
Contributor
V
03.5 Protege5
Yup, this will work for an auto

I smell a sticky.

Very nice Neox!
 
Yup, this will work for an auto

I smell a sticky.

Very nice Neox!
Don't the autos not really hold up well to the extra torque provided but turbofying? That's what I remember the general consensus being when I was reading into doing this a couple years back.
 

neox.286

it's neoX, not neoN lol
V
2003 Spicy Orange MSP
not true at all, though upgraded valve bodies and possibly the upgraded torque converter would be good things to add for that....however this list is only to let you know what you need to get the car boosted (other than engine management)

but a good thing to know is that the stock auto ecu IS already tuned out of the box to 4psi, but above that you will need to have some kind of piggyback setup to tune it (so i have been told)



thanks tylor!
 
V
'86 RX-7 Base, '79 RX-7 GS
Mods please sticky this! I'm so sick of a new turbo thread every week asking the same questions!
 

neox.286

it's neoX, not neoN lol
V
2003 Spicy Orange MSP
thanks dude

added the OEM side mount intercooler's part numbers and required parts list in the Key Notes section....next I'll add information about Intakes and that should cover the entire list of parts
 

neox.286

it's neoX, not neoN lol
V
2003 Spicy Orange MSP
added info about the damn msp a/c condensor issue with side mount fitment....does anyone know the part numbers and what exactally you need from the msp for it to fit? do you need the condensor, and the two lines that hook up to it? or just the condensor? and do you need to replace the dryer and it's line as well?

also does anyone have the part numbers for the msp radiator and the msp radiator/smic brackets?

thanks
 
V
Rust Bucket
jeez thank god someone made this thread!!

i could actually use this info, the water line info to be specific
thanks for posting!
 

808MP5

TEAM PRO 5 VICE PRES.
Contributor
V
GT3076R Pro5
umm... not sure but you could probably get more answers on the DSM forum about that one... but i don't see why you would have any problems
 

neox.286

it's neoX, not neoN lol
V
2003 Spicy Orange MSP
is it the one from the eclipse? I think that uses a different style turbine inlet flange....make sure all your flanges mate up properly before purchasing it
 
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