Thanx Whoosh!
I found this thread on the "other forum" from the member driver311
he has a modded MS3 and has a lot of good ideas and information
here is a short cut/pasted part of his initial post
So I set a mission for myself today when I got off work. Figure out why the hell my car is sputtering at wot.
Then i started thinking about my previous cars and what if any problems were similar to this and what it took to fix it. I remembered that once i hit about 28psi in my evo it would do something very similar. It was spark blowing out. Well the fix for that was new plugs and taking apart the stock coils and stretching the spring inside each individual coil so that you could get a better contact. So on a wim I decided to give it a try. I pulled apart each coil and stretched the spring just a little. Enough to where it took a little bit of effort to get it back together. Put it all back together and went for a drive. TO MY SUPRISE IT DIDNT SPUTTER!!!!! So i turned the boost up to 18psi and still no sputter. Oh s*** did i stumble upon something or what? I was so stoked. Then for s**** I turned the boost up to 20psi and to my suprise still no sputter. So i headed home and put the ets tmic back on, and the sri. Went for some pulls and man the car is straight up MOBBING at 18-20psi. Air fuels were around 10.4 which means there is room for more. I cant wait to get my full turbo back on this hog and hit the dyno. The best part is it pulls all the way to redline and boost holds strong.
Im not saying this is gonna be a fix for everyone but it worked for me. Do me a favor if you are sputtering at wot, give this a try and tell me if it helps it.
Okay, I was thinking to myself that this simple mod would NOT correct my 2nd to 3rd gear WOT sputter >>> but it did!!!!
It took less than 10 minutes
I removed the 8mm hold down screws from the coil on plugs
you'll notice where the plastic and rubber meet about 3-4 inches from the bottom of the coil on plug. pull and twist to seperate the sleeve from the coil
there is a spring laying in there which is only held in place by these two pieces being pressed together
the spring is thin and tightly wound on both ends....leave the ends alone
concentrate on the center of the spring where it is think and heavily wound
I stretched mine 2-3 inches IN THE CENTER
so much that I had to crefully seat both ends in the coil/sleeve and "carefully" sandwich back together
I didn't disconnect the battery of even disconnect the coil on plugs from the harness to do this.
For those with TMIC's it will take 10 minutes + the time to remove your top mount IC
I would have taken pics and walked everyone through this but I honestly didn't think it would work
if anyone needs help trying this just let me know
As driver311 said at the tail end of his 1st post
this may not fix everyone's issues with sputter and studdering but it fixed mine
I am honestly in disbelief that this simple mod fixed my issue from 2nd to 3rd when at WOT
I've tried to reproduce my 2nd to 3rd sputter twice this morning and it is simply just not present any more
I'm going to test it more tonight but so far so good and I have to give huge amounts of Kudos to driver311 for putting this out there for us to try
Pics and steps I took I haven't driven it yet but I will post when I do.
[FONT=times new roman, new york, times, serif]step 1: remove intercooler cover (2 10mm bolts)
step 2: remove hoses from bypass valve (2 hose clamps)
step 3: remove intercooler (3 12mm? bolts and 2 hose clamps, do the clamp going from cold pipe to tube, not the clamp on throttle body)
step 4: remove coil packs (4 8mm bolts)
step 5: seperate rubber housing to reveal spring
step 6: stretch spring
step 7: put back together and enjoy.[/FONT]
[FONT=times new roman, new york, times, serif]
[/FONT]
I found this thread on the "other forum" from the member driver311
he has a modded MS3 and has a lot of good ideas and information
here is a short cut/pasted part of his initial post
So I set a mission for myself today when I got off work. Figure out why the hell my car is sputtering at wot.
Then i started thinking about my previous cars and what if any problems were similar to this and what it took to fix it. I remembered that once i hit about 28psi in my evo it would do something very similar. It was spark blowing out. Well the fix for that was new plugs and taking apart the stock coils and stretching the spring inside each individual coil so that you could get a better contact. So on a wim I decided to give it a try. I pulled apart each coil and stretched the spring just a little. Enough to where it took a little bit of effort to get it back together. Put it all back together and went for a drive. TO MY SUPRISE IT DIDNT SPUTTER!!!!! So i turned the boost up to 18psi and still no sputter. Oh s*** did i stumble upon something or what? I was so stoked. Then for s**** I turned the boost up to 20psi and to my suprise still no sputter. So i headed home and put the ets tmic back on, and the sri. Went for some pulls and man the car is straight up MOBBING at 18-20psi. Air fuels were around 10.4 which means there is room for more. I cant wait to get my full turbo back on this hog and hit the dyno. The best part is it pulls all the way to redline and boost holds strong.
Im not saying this is gonna be a fix for everyone but it worked for me. Do me a favor if you are sputtering at wot, give this a try and tell me if it helps it.
Okay, I was thinking to myself that this simple mod would NOT correct my 2nd to 3rd gear WOT sputter >>> but it did!!!!
It took less than 10 minutes
I removed the 8mm hold down screws from the coil on plugs
you'll notice where the plastic and rubber meet about 3-4 inches from the bottom of the coil on plug. pull and twist to seperate the sleeve from the coil
there is a spring laying in there which is only held in place by these two pieces being pressed together
the spring is thin and tightly wound on both ends....leave the ends alone
concentrate on the center of the spring where it is think and heavily wound
I stretched mine 2-3 inches IN THE CENTER
so much that I had to crefully seat both ends in the coil/sleeve and "carefully" sandwich back together
I didn't disconnect the battery of even disconnect the coil on plugs from the harness to do this.
For those with TMIC's it will take 10 minutes + the time to remove your top mount IC
I would have taken pics and walked everyone through this but I honestly didn't think it would work
if anyone needs help trying this just let me know
As driver311 said at the tail end of his 1st post
this may not fix everyone's issues with sputter and studdering but it fixed mine
I am honestly in disbelief that this simple mod fixed my issue from 2nd to 3rd when at WOT
I've tried to reproduce my 2nd to 3rd sputter twice this morning and it is simply just not present any more
I'm going to test it more tonight but so far so good and I have to give huge amounts of Kudos to driver311 for putting this out there for us to try
Pics and steps I took I haven't driven it yet but I will post when I do.
[FONT=times new roman, new york, times, serif]step 1: remove intercooler cover (2 10mm bolts)
step 2: remove hoses from bypass valve (2 hose clamps)
step 3: remove intercooler (3 12mm? bolts and 2 hose clamps, do the clamp going from cold pipe to tube, not the clamp on throttle body)
step 4: remove coil packs (4 8mm bolts)
step 5: seperate rubber housing to reveal spring
step 6: stretch spring
step 7: put back together and enjoy.[/FONT]
[FONT=times new roman, new york, times, serif]
