Specs for Eclipse 3620 Amp?

[the tortoise]

I'm considering buying this amp (see for sale thread).

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123621631&page=1&pp=15

I'm wondering if anyone can tell me where do find the specs on it.

I'll be using it temporarly (say 6 months-ish) as a sub amp. But because I don't want to take up a ton of space in my hatch and am more in the SQ market I'd like to go with a single 8" Image Dynamics sub (most like the 4 ohm DVC).

I'm looking for some comments on the compatibility of these two items.

Thanks.

 

[chuyler1]

Eclipse doesn't keep specs of their discontinued products on their website (which is stupid if you ask me). It puts out 60x2 @ 4ohms 13.8v so I think it puts out about 200-240x1 @ 4ohms bridged. For this amp you'd want a 2 ohm DVC so you can wire it for 4ohms. It should be a good match for the ID8v3 subwoofer.

 

[the tortoise]

Eclipse doesn't keep specs of their discontinued products on their website (which is stupid if you ask me). It puts out 60x2 @ 4ohms 13.8v so I think it puts out about 200-240x1 @ 4ohms bridged. For this amp you'd want a 2 ohm DVC so you can wire it for 4ohms. It should be a good match for the ID8v3 subwoofer.

Would this amp not be stable at 2 ohms?

 

[Poseur]

bridged 2oh, not many amps are. MONO amps, yes, but not stereo amps. YOu want no lower than a 4ohm bridged load.

Also, eclipse specs are always difficult to interpret anyway, they're abig fans of using "max" power for whatever lameass reason. Chuyler's guess is exactly what mine would be. I believe I reacall seeing 240x1at 4ohm listed.

It's a VERY clean amp, not ideal ideal for a sub, but it'll work, you're really losing it's magic if you're not using it fullrange.

 

[the tortoise]

bridged 2oh, not many amps are. MONO amps, yes, but not stereo amps. YOu want no lower than a 4ohm bridged load.

Also, eclipse specs are always difficult to interpret anyway, they're abig fans of using "max" power for whatever lameass reason. Chuyler's guess is exactly what mine would be. I believe I reacall seeing 240x1at 4ohm listed.

It's a VERY clean amp, not ideal ideal for a sub, but it'll work, you're really losing it's magic if you're not using it fullrange.

As I'm stepping into the world of car audio I'm beginning to realize there is a ton of stuff to learn. Sorry for all the newb questions and thanks for the help.

I may not have mentioned, but I intend for this amp to be temporarily used for a sub. When I install some front speakers I'll be switching it over. I want to install the speakers myself, but have to wait for summer to return first.

 

[chuyler1]

A pair of those amps would make a nice SQ setup. One for highs and one for a single subwoofer.

As Poseur already mentioned, bridging an amp complicates the overall impedence. When you bridge you must divide the total load by 2 to figure out what each channel is seeing. If you bridge an 8ohm sub then each channel gets 4ohms. If you bridge a 4ohm sub then each channel gets 2ohms. If you bridged a 2ohm sub (or a DVC 4ohm wired in parallel) then each channel gets 1ohm. Most 2-channel amps are not 1ohm stable.

So like I said before, you want the 2ohm DVC version of the Image Dynamics sub. You could wire each voice coil separately to the amp (not recommended) or you could wire the two voice coils in series for a 4ohm load and bridge the amp so each channel sees 2ohms.

 

[the tortoise]

A pair of those amps would make a nice SQ setup. One for highs and one for a single subwoofer.

As Poseur already mentioned, bridging an amp complicates the overall impedence. When you bridge you must divide the total load by 2 to figure out what each channel is seeing. If you bridge an 8ohm sub then each channel gets 4ohms. If you bridge a 4ohm sub then each channel gets 2ohms. If you bridged a 2ohm sub (or a DVC 4ohm wired in parallel) then each channel gets 1ohm. Most 2-channel amps are not 1ohm stable.

So like I said before, you want the 2ohm DVC version of the Image Dynamics sub. You could wire each voice coil separately to the amp (not recommended) or you could wire the two voice coils in series for a 4ohm load and bridge the amp so each channel sees 2ohms.

Thanks for the reply. I'm getting it now. It makes sense to apply the 1/R(total)=1/R(1) + 1/R(2) + .... equation to the amp, I just didn't think of it.

I have more question. Specifically, when wiring up two amps, how do you seperate the RCA cables from the Power cable. Say I were to run the power cable down the drivers side (likely) to a distribution block under the console and the RCA's down the passengers side. Simple right? But with an amp under each seat at some point the RCAs and the power cable are going to have to cross each other. Is it hard to ensure there's enough separation between RCA's and power cables? Or is it only a concern for long distances.

Another option is to run the power cable down the centre console and the RCAs in each door sill. Provided 4 awg cable fits. This seems to be the most elegant solution, are there any issues with doing this?

 

[chuyler1]

The safest solution is to run the RCAs down the center console, especially since that is the shortest route anyway. The fuse box is on the left hand side of the dash and you want to avoid running RCAs past it.

You want to avoid running the power cable and RCAs side-by-side. If you must cross wires, try to do so at a 90 degree angle.

 

[the tortoise]

The safest solution is to run the RCAs down the center console, especially since that is the shortest route anyway. The fuse box is on the left hand side of the dash and you want to avoid running RCAs past it.

You want to avoid running the power cable and RCAs side-by-side. If you must cross wires, try to do so at a 90 degree angle.

Cool. Thanks again.