spacers for stock 19in wheels - sizes

[Mondo]

Just thought I'd show some pics of my stock wheels with spacers to make it more flush to the fender. I think 20mm on the front & 25mm on the back are just about right with the stock tires. The pics look like their in a little but the rims are really pretty flush (3rd one is best).
I got them on Ebay for $88.

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

I want to lower the car more than put new rims and tires on a brand new car so this will do for a while.

 

[shortnugly]

That looks really good.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[SK77X]

Adding spacers is definitely on my to-do list once I get the CX-5. Thanks for stating what size spacers you fitted for front and rear. I think they look great, so I'll go with the same sizes.

Any issues or tips for installing them?

 

[Mondo]

No problems, straight bolt on. Don't forget to torque them.. I've seen 80-108 recommendations. I did 90ft lbs and rechecked, seems good.

 

[Skorpio]

Thanks Mondo, this also is on my short list. I've seen posts of 25mm spacers on all wheels . Do you think the 5 extra mm on the front will make a visual difference?

 

[Mondo]

I first bought a pair of 25mm spacers and put them on one side of the car.. 5mm is about a quarter inch, not much really. But it looked like they stuck out a bit more than the back. Track width is only .1in difference (track width, front 62.4 in track width, rear 62.5 in ) but I think it's just the front fender starts more narrow (aero).

Perhaps you can do the same as I did; by a pair of 25mm and put them on one side. If it's no big deal than just order another pair; otherwise determine how much you don't want sticking out. I'm going to lower mine with springs so tread sticking out would be more noticeable (planning on bigger tires too).

That's a great deal on spacers (ebay link) by the way.

 

[Skorpio]

I first bought a pair of 25mm spacers and put them on one side of the car.. 5mm is about a quarter inch, not much really. But it looked like they stuck out a bit more than the back. Track width is only .1in difference (track width, front 62.4 in track width, rear 62.5 in ) but I think it's just the front fender starts more narrow (aero).

Perhaps you can do the same as I did; by a pair of 25mm and put them on one side. If it's no big deal than just order another pair; otherwise determine how much you don't want sticking out. I'm going to lower mine with springs so tread sticking out would be more noticeable (planning on bigger tires too).

That's a great deal on spacers (ebay link) by the way.

Thanks for the further info. I'm going to order them soon!

 

[drw50]

Hey, any trouble with vibrations when driving or braking with the spacers on? That seems to be a popular complaint with spacers, but I read that most of the time it's probably caused by the wheels not being balanced accurately enough.

 

[Skorpio]

Reposted in "What did you do for CX-5 Today", and "Show Me Your Wheels".
I received my (2) 20mm aluminum front, and (2) 25mm spacers for the rear. They are the type has it's own studs built in. It may be hard to tell from the pics, but it totally changes how the CX-5 stands, and they're very flush to the wheel wells. It's almost like my CX-5 swallowed a... errr, a certain blue pill like in the Fiat 500XL commercial!
I test drove it to about 75mph and it feels no different than stock with no vibrations. Then I retorqued the lugs to specs. Shout out to Mondo for his thread and suggestion!

 

[leeharvey418]

Then I retorqued the lugs to specs...

Just a point for those who are anal - If you're worried about re-torquing, you really need to take off the wheel and re-torque the spacer (assuming its body is machined aluminum as most of them are) and then come back and re-torque the wheel again.

 

[Skorpio]

Just a point for those who are anal - If you're worried about re-torquing, you really need to take off the wheel and re-torque the spacer (assuming its body is machined aluminum as most of them are) and then come back and re-torque the wheel again.

The lugs did move slightly on the the torque wrench (yes, I'm talking about the spacer lugs and wheels), so I suggest being "anal", or proper, when it comes to lugnut torque on spacers and wheels. It's the only thing holding the vehicle to the ground [emoji106]

 

[inlinev]

How much do these weigh? Is the added rotational mass worth it?

 

[Mondo]

The ones I bought were aluminum.. it's pretty much for looks. The rims and tires are stock. You won't notice anything in regards to acceleration, gas mileage etc... technically a wider track is better for cornering but I doubt anyone could tell the difference (would really have to be at the limit).

 

[Skorpio]

How much do these weigh? Is the added rotational mass worth it?

I haven't noticed any differences in mpg, acceleration, or handling. But it's a CUV, and I generally treat it as such.

 

[drw50]

Hi Skorpio, do you still need to retorque your spacer and wheel lug nuts every now and then, or are they staying secure now? I'm seriously considering the same spacers since theyre so much cheaper than ichiba or h&r.

 

[drw50]

This question goes out to Mondo also. Thanks for this thread

 

[Skorpio]

Hi Skorpio, do you still need to retorque your spacer and wheel lug nuts every now and then, or are they staying secure now? I'm seriously considering the same spacers since theyre so much cheaper than ichiba or h&r.

Re torquing spacers are just like re torquing wheels. Which, basically means every time an aluminum wheel comes off the car, it should be torqued to specs, then re torqued after about 50 miles. Assuming your lug nuts, mounting surface, hub, etc. are in good, clean, mechanical condition, that's it.
One of the reasons for re torquing is due to different metals contracting and expanding together along with different loads on the area. Re torquing ensures all surfaces and applied loads "settles" in the affected area (hub). Here's a quick Google search explaining it-www.kaltire.com/why-re-torque-the-importance-of-retorquing/

 

[drw50]

Re torquing spacers are just like re torquing wheels. Which, basically means every time an aluminum wheel comes off the car, it should be torqued to specs, then re torqued after about 50 miles. Assuming your lug nuts, mounting surface, hub, etc. are in good, clean, mechanical condition, that's it.
One of the reasons for re torquing is due to different metals contracting and expanding together along with different loads on the area. Re torquing ensures all surfaces and applied loads "settles" in the affected area (hub). Here's a quick Google search explaining it-www.kaltire.com/why-re-torque-the-importance-of-retorquing/

Thanks for the info! I think I will get those spacers, I am looking forward to them. (2thumbs)

 

[leeharvey418]

How much do these weigh? Is the added rotational mass worth it?

The extra rotational mass is pretty negligible, since it's concentrated at the hub. It's unsprung weight, sure... but it doesn't have much effect on the wheel's moment of inertia about the axle.

 

[Syd-Akira]

I have installed 20mm spacers to front and 25mm to the rear and this set up is perfect for the OEM 19s
The wheels are just flush with the guards.

The V-project spacers weight in at 25mm 1.925kg for two front spacers and 2.106 for the two 25mm rears.
I used kitchen scale to weight these. Basically total weight of a little over 4kg.

The quality of the spacers are good and the studs are also good quality as well. I have gone through a lot of spacers with my Miata.

I will get some photos up as well when I get a chance.