Someone scraped up my 4-month old 2016.5 :(

:
2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD
Happened while I was parked for literally 20 minutes. Quickest one of my vehicles has gotten ruined. My question is, does this look like it can be buffed/detailed out? Or am I going to need paint/body work? I'm not too knowledgable about auto body
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0578.JPG
    IMG_0578.JPG
    950.2 KB · Views: 559
Hard to tell from the picture, is that paint transfer from the other vehicle that's above the clearcoat on your car? Or is it scratches that have gone through the clearcoat and paint to the primer?
 
Hard to tell from the picture, is that paint transfer from the other vehicle that's above the clearcoat on your car? Or is it scratches that have gone through the clearcoat and paint to the primer?

I'm really not sure. When I move my finger over the affected areas, it feels raised/rough in nature, rather than nicked. I think the big spots of white are paint transfer, those two white lines *might* be scratches, but I'm really not too sure. I can try to take better pictures outdoors.

I have a $0 comprehensive deductible on my insurance, so the money isn't a worry for me, I just wanted to avoid submitting a claim due to rate increase, and also if it can be helped, I don't want it reported as an accident due to resale value.
 
I'm really not sure. When I move my finger over the affected areas, it feels raised/rough in nature, rather than nicked. I think the big spots of white are paint transfer, those two white lines *might* be scratches, but I'm really not too sure. I can try to take better pictures outdoors.

I have a $0 comprehensive deductible on my insurance, so the money isn't a worry for me, I just wanted to avoid submitting a claim due to rate increase, and also if it can be helped, I don't want it reported as an accident due to resale value.

Rate won't increase due to this. If you can get parking lot video that's better. Can't see image but for me buffing few scratches and repainting two doors=$750
 
I'd try a clay bar first to see if you can clean it up.. it can be a labor intensive project but I have had good luck getting stuff like that cleaned up. As long as it didn't go past your clear coat it's generally save able.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
I'd try a clay bar first to see if you can clean it up.. it can be a labor intensive project but I have had good luck getting stuff like that cleaned up. As long as it didn't go past your clear coat it's generally save able.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

If it's above your clearcoat i.e. predominantly paint transfer then absolutely this. I've had good luck with Mother's clay bar kit for removing overspray and tar/bugs. You may need to follow up with a buffer and very light polishing compound afterwards.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
⋯ I have a $0 comprehensive deductible on my insurance, so the money isn't a worry for me, I just wanted to avoid submitting a claim due to rate increase, and also if it can be helped, I don't want it reported as an accident due to resale value.
You know very well how the insurance claim works nowadays. I'd never file an insurance claim for such a minor incident like yours although it's upsetting someone just ruined the bumper and ran! But then I have $1,000 deductible on comprehensive for the exact reason to save some premium yearly.

In your situation you can seek prefessional help such as Service King if you have one nearby. I do believe your bumper will have a couple of scratches left but it'd look not too bad after the professional treatment without repainting. Try to keep your factory paint as long as you can!
 
Rate won't increase due to this. If you can get parking lot video that's better. Can't see image but for me buffing few scratches and repainting two doors=$750
Rate may not increase if you have this single claim for several years. But you'll never know if you need another claim or two for major ones. Not just rate increase, some insurance company may even kick you out of thier policy if you file 3 claims in 5 years even if all are not your fault! If you think you simply can switch to another insurance company for better rate after your insurance premium increase, think again. Every insurance company can easily retrieve you previous claim record from other companies. Ask how I know after 3 major hail storms in 5 years!
 
Happened while I was parked for literally 20 minutes. Quickest one of my vehicles has gotten ruined. My question is, does this look like it can be buffed/detailed out? Or am I going to need paint/body work? I'm not too knowledgable about auto body

I would first give it a shot with rubbing compound then wax. After that if it's still noticeable let a professional detailer have a crack at it. Most of it looks superficial.

Two months after I purchased my CX-5 I got sideswiped while it was parked. Looks like somebodies mirror scrapped the drivers side quarter panel. It looked terrible. I thought it was a least a grand worth of damage. When I got it home I compounded the crap out of it then wax, then repeat. etc. Finally it looked new again. Only problem was the quarter panel had a slight crease in it, you could see it if you looked sideways with the sun shinning on it. It was something most people could live with but since I knew it was there I couldn't being the car was only 2 months old. Found a body shop close by that wasn't busy, they fixed it for $700 in 2 days. Looked brand new again.
 
Sorry about the boo-boo, but from here it looks like it is fixable.

Always start with the least aggressive, and work from there. Cleaner wax>>Clay>>Polishing Compound>>Rubbing compound>>wet sanding>>etc...

It is possible that using just a CLEANER-WAX will be fine to remove the marks. If not, then go one step more aggressive with a clay or polishing compound. If that does not work, I would bring it to a professional detailer or body shop for further analysis.
 
Last edited:
I had something similar to yours, but looked worse. Cleaner wax and some elbow work on my part took care of it.
 
Thank you all for your advice and helpful comments. I'm feeling a lot better about it now!

I examined it more closely in the sunlight yesterday. I noticed that if I rubbed what looks like that deep scratch on the right, it starts to come off. Since I have no idea what I'm doing with car body products (I've only ever washed and done spray-wax on my vehicles, no idea how to properly do anything else), I made an appointment today with an auto detailer in the area. But, it's pouring out now, so that may not happen today. In either case, I'm feeling better about it now.

I think because the car was new and had a really thick, fresh layer of wax on it (anytime it would rain, the wax would streak on the car, so I think the dealership likely applied too much), it saved the paint. I'm going to have the detailer work on that area and then see for sure.
 
If you are able to rub some of the marks off then the outlook is good that it is all just paint transfer. There may be some scratches that are left behind when the white paint is removed. If the detailer knows what they are doing they should be able to minimize the look of it quite nicely. Like I said it might not get back to 100% but 90% range is doable. I would start with a clay bar, although those generally aren't meant for removing paint transfer they will help remove any impeded containments in the paint before buffing. Next I would go to something like M205 on an 3" Orange LC pad with a 8mm DA machine. If that didn't do what I wanted I would up to M105 (a heavier compound) and try that. Then move to M105 on a yellow of Microfiber cutting pad and if that didn't work then 3000 grit sanding disk. If you have to go to 3000 sanding disk or even M105 with a cutting disc then you need to go back down to M205 and a polishing pad to bring back the shine and remove all sanding marks or haze from the M105. 3000grit > M105 cutting disc > M205 Light cutting disc > M205 polish disc > Wax > Done! to start to remove follow that in reverse order but start with the clay bar. An Dual Action machine will make work much easier and faster but can be done with good old elbow grease. If you cant find M105/205 Meguiars Ultimate compound and Ultimate Polish are very similar in cutting ability and can be found much easier locally. Good Luck!
 
If you are able to rub some of the marks off then the outlook is good that it is all just paint transfer. There may be some scratches that are left behind when the white paint is removed. If the detailer knows what they are doing they should be able to minimize the look of it quite nicely. Like I said it might not get back to 100% but 90% range is doable. I would start with a clay bar, although those generally aren't meant for removing paint transfer they will help remove any impeded containments in the paint before buffing. Next I would go to something like M205 on an 3" Orange LC pad with a 8mm DA machine. If that didn't do what I wanted I would up to M105 (a heavier compound) and try that. Then move to M105 on a yellow of Microfiber cutting pad and if that didn't work then 3000 grit sanding disk. If you have to go to 3000 sanding disk or even M105 with a cutting disc then you need to go back down to M205 and a polishing pad to bring back the shine and remove all sanding marks or haze from the M105. 3000grit > M105 cutting disc > M205 Light cutting disc > M205 polish disc > Wax > Done! to start to remove follow that in reverse order but start with the clay bar. An Dual Action machine will make work much easier and faster but can be done with good old elbow grease. If you cant find M105/205 Meguiars Ultimate compound and Ultimate Polish are very similar in cutting ability and can be found much easier locally. Good Luck!
OP has only ever used spray on wax. While I agree with your recommendation it is way over his head.

OP should just take it to his detail guy and tell him to do the best he can. It will probably be cheaper than buying all of the waxes, polishes, pads, & random orbital you will need

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
 
OP has only ever used spray on wax. While I agree with your recommendation it is way over his head.

OP should just take it to his detail guy and tell him to do the best he can. It will probably be cheaper than buying all of the waxes, polishes, pads, & random orbital you will need

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

+1
 
Now i see the pic - seems someone hit it while parking or reversing. People are so thick - should not be even using a pencil sharpener still get licenses to drive cars.
 
Update:

Detailer was able to get 99.8% of it out. Only thing that's left is a small nick that's really hard to see, where the paint is actually nicked. I could try covering it with the OEM paint pen, but overall I'm very happy with the results. I have to see if I can get some of the marks off of the black plastic trim, but the body is unscathed otherwise!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0614.JPG
    IMG_0614.JPG
    661.3 KB · Views: 311
That looks like it turned out very good. (rei)

What did the detailer charge for the service?
 
Update:

Detailer was able to get 99.8% of it out. Only thing that's left is a small nick that's really hard to see, where the paint is actually nicked. I could try covering it with the OEM paint pen, but overall I'm very happy with the results. I have to see if I can get some of the marks off of the black plastic trim, but the body is unscathed otherwise!

Wow, they really did a good job. Looks great.
 
Back