Wasn't too bad eh?Tried the soldering technique...so far, so good! All is working well.
Word to the wise though, don't overtighten the little white, plastic washer when reassembling the controls...it will break! My friend helping me did this and broke mine. Not impossible to fix, just a pain in the butt.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123619416&highlight=replacing+blower+motorHeya! I'm new here and about to replace the Blower Motor Resistor cause I've only got full power #4 fan or nothing at all (yet the engine still seems to act as if power is still being drawn...). SO am I missing a post or thread about this? Can't find a reference to anyone replacing that and their success??
Thanks for any assistance!!
(-; ZOOMLICIOUS ;-)
Ok, so mine started the flickering last week, then speed #2 went out completely. So I took my AC console off and took the switch apart. Inside the switch, as Pyr0TeK mentioned, is a 3-point connector plate. I noticed that the plate is loosely mounted between the selector and the contact plate. So here's what I did:Actually, I did do one thing different...
Instead of popping that entire rotary switch out, I left it in and took it apart on the back side. It basically snaps together. Under that back cap you will see the connecting points/contacts. There is an electric grease substance on there and I cleaned some of that off, not entirely, but some of it. Not sure if anyone else took the switch apart like I did, just an extra tidbit of information.
Kind of hard to see. It looks like the largish copper contact plate is moved farther out along the rod on which it mounts. Is that what you are referring to? Are you saying that in normal operation the contact plate is free to slide up and down along the central rod of the switch? I would have expected there to be a a ledge or diameter change on the rod to hold the contact plate in the proper place, but maybe Mazda's switch just uses friction to hold the plate in position?Pic #8 - This pushes the contact plate more firmly against the back part of the switch to make a firmer contact. Notice the difference from Pic #4 in previous post.
Probably there was no ledge. Switches that are designed with ledges usually have a smaller distal diameter, and a larger proximal diameter. It is just as easy to mold as a small ring around the constant diameter rod, and is stronger.The copper contact plate does just slide up and down like you asked. It slides away from the contact points enough so that it can pivot and only 2 of the contact points on it will make contact, the 3rd one will just hover about 1/2 a millimeter from it's contact point.
You know, I never thought about there being a ledge or diameter change like you mentioned. The central rod in mine was the same diameter throughout, but it's possible that it wasn't always like that and it could have worn down.
And now by the next summer i have lost ac in fan 2,3,and 4. (hand)Nope. Lithium (dielectric) grease is to prevent corrosion on electrical connectors because it does conduct.
I scrapped the conectors and reapplied new grease. Works today. I was too lazy to completely remove the switch...