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Solution To Flickering Fan Speed 2 Or 3 A/C PART 2

Yeah, cleaning the contacts and crimping them down was the first thing I tried last year. No idea why, but it didn't last very long. That's why I soldered it this time. 2 weeks so far. Not a single problem yet. Thanks PyroTek and the rest of you for posting your results!! I just have no clue why these contacts are such an issue. Most of the car's electrical are connected in a similar way. Now I'm worried!!
 

bazooka joe

No words
Moderator
Contributor
:
2016 Miata Club, 2014 CX5 Touring, Honda 1976 XL 175
most of the time when you have this kind of issue, it's caused by over heating, either by poor connection (meaning loose) and or, too heavy a load (amps) for the wire/spades/connectors etc...???
 

Pyr0TeK

2001 Pro LX 2.0
:
2001 Pro LX 2.0
most of the time when you have this kind of issue, it's caused by over heating, either by poor connection (meaning loose) and or, too heavy a load (amps) for the wire/spades/connectors etc...???
Actually, I did do one thing different...

Instead of popping that entire rotary switch out, I left it in and took it apart on the back side. It basically snaps together. Under that back cap you will see the connecting points/contacts. There is an electric grease substance on there and I cleaned some of that off, not entirely, but some of it. Not sure if anyone else took the switch apart like I did, just an extra tidbit of information.
 
Pyr0TeK and Weborific, are the a/c still working good??
This a/c thing starts annoying as the summer progress...

Josh
 
:
Lancer Ralliart Sportback
Umm.. Dielectric grease is an insulator not a conductor
Nope. Lithium (dielectric) grease is to prevent corrosion on electrical connectors because it does conduct.

I scrapped the conectors and reapplied new grease. Works today. I was too lazy to completely remove the switch...
 
:
2003.5 MSP Titanium Gray
Same thing happens with my car, i'm going to try this :) a/c kicking on and off just pisses me off....
 
:
Mazda3i Sport
Same thing happens with my car, i'm going to try this :) a/c kicking on and off just pisses me off....
Me too, I just lost fan speed 4, so now I just have 1 and that won't cut it. I was looking at the board as the culprit as I have already done the pop the wire connectors out of the harness wire crimp method. I'm still not sure, it would seem that if I had a bad connection the fan just wouldn't work on those speeds, not the AC stop working. I'll try this method soon and let you all know my results.
 

Onatrum

Represent'n Ohio
:
2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe
For the few of you that have torn this apart, is it possible to get the male side (with the black plastic that needs cut off) out without removing the whole radio trim piece and HVAC unit? I took the knob off the front and tried tugging on the back but it seems to be connected somewhere.
 

Pyr0TeK

2001 Pro LX 2.0
:
2001 Pro LX 2.0
For the few of you that have torn this apart, is it possible to get the male side (with the black plastic that needs cut off) out without removing the whole radio trim piece and HVAC unit? I took the knob off the front and tried tugging on the back but it seems to be connected somewhere.
Not that I am aware of... easy to remove though... radio bezel just pops off and the A/C unit is easy too... 3 minutes, tops. (eyeballs)
 
:
Protege5 2003
For the few of you that have torn this apart, is it possible to get the male side (with the black plastic that needs cut off) out without removing the whole radio trim piece and HVAC unit? I took the knob off the front and tried tugging on the back but it seems to be connected somewhere.
No. At the very least you must remove the console trim. And unless you have really skinny hands I doubt you'll be able to do this modification in situ. What you want to do is:

1. Unhook the cable on the driver side (pull the loop off the post and release the cable a few inches farther in from its clamp). In order to do this you will have to crawl in under the dash so that your head is right next to the gas pedal, then look up and to the right at the center console to see the white wheel where the cable attaches.

2. Unhook the cable on the passenger side (remove the glove box door to get access, then unhook as for the other side.) Again, you have to crawl under the dash, and this wheel is a little harder to see since it is partially behind the console.

3. NOTE THE ROUTING OF THE CABLES ON EACH SIDE, YOU HAVE TO PUT THEM BACK THE SAME WAY! It might be helpful to tie a long piece of string to each cable loop before pulling the trim piece, so that during reassembly you can guide the cables back by just pulling on the string.

4. Pull off the console trim.

5. Release the emergency flasher switch (connector comes off the back).

At this point you should have easy access to the piece you want to work on.

To assemble, just do everything in reverse, being careful to route the cables in their original positions.
 
I think unhooking the cable is the PITA part...
Also it's a good idea to turn the knobs all the way to either side so when you put it back you can remember where the setting was...

Josh
 
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