Oof man, I can hear the "fartbox" just through you words X^D
When I had an exhaust leak, I was too embarrased to drive around. That rasp just wasn't something I was in to. However, if you've ever watched Best Motoring or Hot Version, you'll find that those highly-tuned Civics sound like beehives. I guess at the end of the day, it's about the overall performance of the vehicle, and not the sound
Well hey, glad you were able to perform a tune-up, and good thing your control arm isn't as boogered as you thought it was.
It's really sad how 4 bangers sound, I got a resonator to try to dampen down the rice lol, might have a shop weld it in if my coworker doesnt feel up for it. Honestly I dont know how my car stays running, its maintanance is almost non existant until 2 years ago. I've driven it almost everyday for 5 years and then weekly for another 2 (not including the 6 months after a certain guardrail incident XD) I also got all my wheels rebalance and they found a flat spot in the front driver side tire. So new fronts on and I now have 2 spares at 50% and one at like uh 20%..? Its pretty low. Ordered new calipers from powerstop for the front and some "rebuilt" rears, I swear if these ones are bad I'm gunna lose it haha. Shocks feel really rough up front now that everything else is settled and not twacked out, just gunna run it for now until I get a chance to get some king springs (aye). Might have a small leak in the exhaust somewhere, I suspect a vband or the front header flange. I trust my buddies welds, I dont trust the "God knows how old" donut gasket and the rear vband which has a buttload of pressure on it because I messed up the front hangers and they sat too low. I ended up putting too much pressure on the rear hangers to keep it up off the subframe but now it might be coming back to haunt me. Happens mostly at 3500to3700rpms and inconsistently throughout the revs above that. Sounds very similar to brake pads lightly dragging and because it only happens at partial throttle or 3500rpm I know it's the exhaust. Still tons of work to do but suspension is slowly getting there. OH! Almost forgot to put this in, I absolutely LOVE awr's trailing links. Those along with putting back in the rear swaybar makes the rear end so tight. It gets a little rough sometimes but my oh my is it a world of difference. Contrary to how squishy and soft the rear felt without a sway bar and stock links, it's now super tight and the biggest difference........ lack of understeer. After a couple weeks of no rear sway bar I kinda got used to the feeling but now even when I throw the car into a turn it doesnt instantly slide. The front feels much more planted and no more massive roll in the rear. Love it, it just feels right you know?
Well lots of stuff in the works, new front calipers, reman rears (working, checked out the screws before hand this time), braided Goodrich brakelines, parking brake cables front and drivers side (already have a new one on the passenger side), resonator and new hangars (gotta reposition the muffler), gunna try some raybestos semi metallic pads, and some red lug nuts. So lots of stuff to install just gotta find the time, the baby room is currently taking most of my time (priorities lol) I want to paint my rear calipers red to match the fronts so I got some high heat red caliper paint and high heat primer. I wanna paint the wheels black until I can get some method 502's and have them resprayed bronze. Lately I've realized that the "classic" rice look really appeals to me and I've decided to embrace it. I'm going for yellow paint with bronze wheels and red bits here n there like calipers, intake, strut bars etc honestly the car is half there already. Lastly yeller finally popped some codes without warning, every other time a code came up there was a reason for it that I usually caused. This time 3 codes out of nowhere and man when it rains it pours, p0455 Evap system leak, p0660 intake mani tuning valve control, and lastly this one scares me a bit, never seen this before p1250 manufacturer control...... did some research and have a good idea of where to start. I cleared them for now, we'll see it it'll last till tax return
The P1250 is the fuel pressure regulator control solenoid valve.
I threw the same code about a year-and-a-half ago and swapped out the valve from my parts car in 5 minutes and it was fixed.
Before I swap it out, I tested the original with 12 volts right from the battery and it clicked. I touched it again and it clicked, then I touched it a whole bunch of times really fast it clicked for about 10 times and then it stopped clicking.
So those valves can sort of be intermittent as far as failure goes.
The p0660 is the vics solenoid valve pretty much the same idea but perhaps a slightly different design (I forget).
One thing of note is to check your charging/battery system.
If the voltage drops too low, you can through all kinds of erroneous codes.
The EVAP leak may just be your gas cap.
Check the metal mating surface of the filler neck to make sure there's no pits or rust.
I fixed a friend's EVAP code by putting a little bit of Grease around the metal of the filler neck to help make a better seal on the gas cap.
Finding an EVAP leak can be a PITA.
You may end up needing a smoke test.
I've got a couple of friends that can help you smoke test your car. Lol
Thanks for the trouble shooting pcb, my idle is very unsteady and pulses when theres a load like lights and fans. I know my engine isn't in the best shape and probably has a very dirty egr valve. I'm thinking my alternator is worn out, Its been on the car for over 12 years according the the paperwork.
What the service manual doesn't say is that once you remove the alternator from the engine it's trapped in the engine bay.
Some guys take it out the top by removing the cruise control unit to gain access.
The mechanics that did my car before I did my own work pulled the axle to remove the alternator.
I don't want to pull my alternator out the top cuz there's too many Krispy crumbly Parts up there that I don't want to mess with.
I remember one mechanic saying the best way to remove the alternator is to remove the hanger bolts from the joint shaft, then pull the axle out of the transmission about half an inch.
That way the oil doesn't come gushing out but it gives you just enough room to wiggle the axle out of the way to get the alternator through.
Once your alternator is out you're going to want to install a new one.
Instead of the gutless 70 amp OEM alternator, I think you should talk to the Power Bastards and get one of these...
And then get one of these...
Tell your significant other that it's for the baby.
When your kid just won't sleep and won't stop crying you simply strap em' into the car seat in the back seat go for a drive with the music cranked.
Turn the treble and mids down and crank the bass and vibrate the baby to sleep.
You don't want a deaf kid.
And just because the baby falls asleep in 5 minutes doesn't mean you don't drive around for two or three hours.
May I suggest some musical interest for you and the baby.
Bob Marley's Exodus, which is the number one album of the 20th century and the first album I ever owned that I wore out.
I played it thousands of times.
Apparently, the deep rhythmic bass tones of raegae music mimics the mothers heartbeat.