Sliding Door Lock Actuator Replacement

The spring is there to prevent that. It returns the gear wheel back to its middle/neutral position so even if you keep on pressing the same button the motor will always start from the neutral position. You are right about being no limit switch. Maybe that is what that extra connector that is empty for. I can see from the DIY picture that there is a wired connector that mates with it.
 
Received the $10 Honda actuator and it looks like is the same part accept for the extra limit switch which Mazda does not use. Here are some pictures of the Honda and Mazda actuator. Looks like Mazda has the wiring for the limit switch but don't know why they don't use it. Have to check the wiring diagram to see what that limit switch is wire to.





 
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2006 Mazda 6 - auto
It looks like the only difference is the arm on the outside. You could just switch all the insides and you'd have a new actuator. Nice to know that a $10 actuator can replace the ~$45 Mazda one. Nice work.
 
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Mazda 5 Imported from Edmonton,Canada
I fixed my door lock actuator a month ago.
Took pictures and wanted to do a how-to :) but Davebert got ahead of me
At least I will post some of my pics and my experience.

First I found this thread http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123821382-Driver-Door-Lock-Actuator-Motor-Fix
Which proved that it the actuator can be fixed by simply replacing the motor.
It is worth doing it for the front doors since the price of the actuator is more than 160$

Then I found the current thread started by a10thunder which gave me idea how to open the door.
I read that the actuator itself is 40-60$, but hey if it can be fixed for less, why not :)
I ordered from ebay.com "20mm Long Shaft Car Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair For Lexus Toyota Mabuchi" from seller "mhestore2009" for 5$
Here's the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/281171934864?item=281171934864&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160&vxp=mtr
I ordered the motor with the longer shaft, just to be safe - it is easier to cut the shaft if I needed 10mm, than making it longer if I needed 20mm :)

3 weeks later I had the motor.

Removed the actuator from the door.
I don't know how Davebert did cut the actuator that nice, clean and straight :) my praise to you.
Here's how I did it:

Hacking it hard with the Dremel :)
Here it is opened:


Here it can be seen that the upper connector is a microswitch - it is used in my Mazda 5, because it is equipped with the factory OEM Alarm System. So this connector and the switch, tells the ECU that the door is being opened and the horn starts beeping.

Here's the original motor in place


And here's the shaft of the original motor:

It is not round like the new motor that I purchased.

The two motors together - upper one is the burnt out original, and the lower is the new one


Again I used the Dremel to make the shaft the same - with the slot.
Replaced the motor.
Since reading a lot of threads of repairing these actuators(from Lexus forums), it turned out that closing the actuator is the tricky part. I read a person that glued the two halves a little loose and the plastic worm part got stuck with the big white wheel (I am sorry if I don't use the right words, I am not a native english speaker :)) and he had really hard time unlocking the door.
So I decided to close the actuator mechanically :) with two screws without any glue. This leaves future opening quite easy and the closing to be monitored (so the halves don't get too tight to each other, since my diamond cut wheel on the dremel is really thick)

These two screws prove to be sufficient:

One is a bolt with a nut, and the other one is self tapper screw.

Here they are on the other side:


I have been using it on a daily basis for the last month and it works like new :)
I plan on ordering one more motor for the other sliding door, since now I hear it unlocks the door a few milliseconds later than the new one :) and perhaps it will give way in the next months.

Cheers,
sorry if it is too long, but wanted to share what I initially planned to do as a how-to :)
 
I fixed my door lock actuator a month ago.
I don't know how Davebert did cut the actuator that nice, clean and straight :) my praise to you.
Here are the tools I used to crack the case open, a old broken mallet, and 2 flat blade screwdrivers for prying.



I start by using the mallet and one flat blade screwdriver to crack the case, and then I just use the other screwdriver as a wedge and worked my way around the case. The original OEM one was a little more difficult to pry apart, but the Honda one came apart easier. Here is a recreation on how I did it and the starting point that I choose.




I almost bought 2 new actuators from the dealer last year when I was there to get the car serviced. But the parts guy was given me lots of attitude when I was asking him if they have the parts in stock and the price. So I decided not to purchase the actuator part from there.

vesko_m I see from your pictures that the OEM actuator has the limit switch, so all one has to do is to replace the lever and no need to crack the case open. Now that I have handled the two actuators some more I can say that the OEM one is a little heavier, looks like the case for the OEM one is a little thicker than the $10 HONDA jobber one. I have played with them some more and all the parts (motor, gears, levers and even the case) between the 2 actuator are interchangeable.

Hope other members will find the useful and thanks to the OP for starting this thread.
 
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Mazda 5 Imported from Edmonton,Canada
Hey Dave,
I think the switch is not a limit switch
I have the OEM alarm fitted and I am 100% sure that this switch is for the alarm.

Thanks for sharing your method of opening :)
 
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Mazda 5, 2006
Just want to say thank you to:

- a10thunder for starting this thread and show how to disassemble the the door and remove the actuator
- Davebert for showing how to open the actuator
- Vesko_m for the idea of using a screw/nut to close the actuator

I just did one of my doors using those procedures and is working great. The only minor detail is the replacement motors I have are not an exact replacement: the axis in the back of the motor is a bit longer than the originals, so I had to use my knife to carve the plastic base and make space for it (I don't have a Dremmel, I guess it would have been easier just to sand down the axis itself).

These are the motors I got from e-bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281332005204?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I'll post some pictures about that detail next week when I have time to do the other door.
 
Here is how I closed my actuator using 3/4" 4-40 screws and tapped threads instead of nuts. A little cleaner look, I reused the original case because it was a little thicker than the replacement one and if you are only changing out the motor you want to keep the original arm intact.





 
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Mazda5
I've got a horrible rattle seemingly coming from inside the handle. Tried following the instructions to remove the handle cover, but it just won't budge. Any tips?!
 
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2006 Mazda 6 - auto
I've got a horrible rattle seemingly coming from inside the handle. Tried following the instructions to remove the handle cover, but it just won't budge. Any tips?!
I assume you are talking about the inside handle cover that you need to remove? Is the lock in "locked" mode? Use a hair dryer to warm up the plastic? It should just pop off, unless your UK model is different than the US ones.
 
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2006 Mazda 5
Many thanks for the instructions, links & pictures.
Great to get an idea before tearing into things. My DS sliding door is suffering from the same issue.

Heh, those Mabuchi 280 motors and its derivatives have been around forever.
Some Tamiya model kit from the 80s I have here uses the same thing. :)
 
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Mazda RX7 Turbo II 1990
Mazda5 Sliding Doors drive me Crazy

I have a 2009 Mazda5 GT for 4yr now. The Sliding doors are a nightmare. Every winter, moisture will get in both the doors and the "lock assist" feature will not work. It will not lock the door and I will have to drive with the door open to an indoor car wash to thaw out. It always happens after water gets on the car and then freezes to minus temps. So to avoid this, I don't wash my car in the winters and put it in a garage to keep dry. NOW, in the summer, the "lock assist" keeps pulling the door in and out even while I am driving. Is it the actuator that does this or is it another part? I brought it to Mazda dealership and all they did was to lube the tracks. Of course everything works in a warm shop. A few days later when the weather got cold, same problem. If for some small chance I get another Mazda5, I will NEVER buy any with "lock assist" crap with it. If I can't fix this problem, the Van goes up for sale. If everything did not wear out as fast as it did, and the door problem, the Van is perfect for my little family.
 
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2006 Mazda 6 - auto
I'm not sure what a "lock assist" is, but I know that in the states, there were some TSBs/recalls on frozen locks. I checked for your year TSBs, but I didn't see any relevant TSBs, it probably was for an earlier year. From what I recall, I think people were able to get the dealer to fix them in the states, but Mazda Canada was not as responsive.

It seems like a safety issue to me - someone could fall out the door. I would try another Mazda dealer. I think you can disconnect the actuator, so you can only use the locks in a manual mode. Good luck.

ok, found a reference http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123806843-Recall-for-freezing-rear-door-latches-what-about-Canadians-effected-by-this
 
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Mazda 3
Hi there!

Yeah, broken car key is even more unpleasant thing. When it happens, car owners imagine how they extract the key, repaint their car, pay for newly placed locks and keys or even door repair. Picking out is the worst thing you can do. And I'm sure that if you are not a professional, you will not be able to disassemble your car door and extract the key. Dont even try doing that. So, you able to calling 24 hour locksmith Vaughan (Ontario).
 
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Mazda 5 2006
I can not program my key remote fob. I have a passenger side broken actuator. Do u think its the reason i cant program the remote key fob any help appriciated. My car is a mazda5 2006 gt
 
I can not program my key remote fob. I have a passenger side broken actuator. Do u think its the reason i cant program the remote key fob any help appriciated. My car is a mazda5 2006 gt
I don't think a bad actuator will stop you from programming a new key fob. The passenger side actuator never work properly and I was able to program 2 new keys with it. Is this just a regular key or is it the switch blade key with the case? Some vendor will just sell the key or the fob but with out the transponder inside. Or you might have a defective transponder. Also, you need 2 working (not cloned) keys with transponders in order to be able to program a new one.
 
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Mazda5 sport
I don't think a bad actuator will stop you from programming a new key fob. The passenger side actuator never work properly and I was able to program 2 new keys with it. Is this just a regular key or is it the switch blade key with the case? Some vendor will just sell the key or the fob but with out the transponder inside. Or you might have a defective transponder. Also, you need 2 working (not cloned) keys with transponders in order to be able to program a new one.
I have a similar situation. Neither of my rear door actuators respond when I press the automatic lock buttons on the front doors, there is no noise indicating that they are even trying to function or receiving a signal when the front door lock buttons are cycled. Also, neither of my key fobs will pair when I go through the pairing procedure. The car does not respond to the cycle the key and open and close the door procedure like it should. My hunch is that in order to pair the key fobs, step one indicates that all doors must be shut except for the drivers door. If the rear doors are not sending the signal that they are shut, then the computer will not let you start the procedure.

Does anybody have any insights here? Do the actuators also send a signal indicating that the doors are closed? Is there a rear door relay somewhere that could be bad and is keeping any signal from reaching the rear doors?
 
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Mazda 5 2006
I don't think a bad actuator will stop you from programming a new key fob. The passenger side actuator never work properly and I was able to program 2 new keys with it. Is this just a regular key or is it the switch blade key with the case? Some vendor will just sell the key or the fob but with out the transponder inside. Or you might have a defective transponder. Also, you need 2 working (not cloned) keys with transponders in order to be able to program a new one.
it is a switch blade key with case. The key is programmed to the car. It is the KEYFOB that will not program. after going into program mode and doing the procedure when i click any button twice to set the keyfob the doors do not lock/unlock to verify the keyfob was set.

A mechanic told me that it is because the door actuator is broken but he wasn't 100% sure. Im going to buy the Honda ones you posted and try switching the parts with my oem ones.

I hope this helps because i really need my key fob to work i dont even care about the rear doors but i need keyless entry.

thanks for the great tutorial btw all you have given their input
 
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Mazda 5 2006
it is a switch blade key with case. The key is programmed to the car. It is the KEYFOB that will not program. after going into program mode and doing the procedure when i click any button twice to set the keyfob the doors do not lock/unlock to verify the keyfob was set.

A mechanic told me that it is because the door actuator is broken but he wasn't 100% sure. Im going to buy the Honda ones you posted and try switching the parts with my oem ones.

I hope this helps because i really need my key fob to work i dont even care about the rear doors but i need keyless entry.

thanks for the great tutorial btw all you have given their input

FURTHER UPDATE. I HAVE REPLACED MY ACTUATORS ON THE BACK SLIDING DOORS BOTH SIDES. THANKS FOR THE GREAT WRITE UP TO THOSE WHO PROVIDED INSTRUCTIONS.


IT DID NOT FIX MY REMOTE KEY FOB PROBLEM.

I can not program the remote still nothing happens after entering program mode i click any button on the remote twice and nothing happens. Ive changed batteris in the remote and that did nothing im running out of idea's does anyone have any clue why it will not program.


The key works fine its just the remote that doesnt work. Im not sure if it is the original or not because i bought the car used a couple months back.
 
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Mazda 3
In my opinion, its better to call a professional to repair a door for you. When you call locksmith toronto a specialist can suggest you a price and a solution to your problem, approximate time to do that and you should be able to decide what to do. Replacing a key, eve remote in a car can be done by locksmith and you would spend much less money than repairing or bying a new one from a dealer. If you already decided to do that, try to find similar cases on youdube. There are a lot of DIY stuff youtube video that may (or may not) help you with your case. Or amazon/ebay for spare chip click here
 
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