Sliding Door Lock Actuator Replacement

was98strat

The sharkfin is in
I realizes that but if they are talking about window track getting in the way, they didn't read the beginning of the thread as the instructions are clear and don't involve anything in the way of the window or it's track.
 
I'm planning to change my actuators. Or actually I tried, following these instructions, but when I got to the point where I should pull the plastic door panel out, I just wasn't sure how it can be done without breaking anything. It flexes so much without coming off that I'm afraid I'll snap those plastic clips if I pull too hard.

Any advice? If I could see where the clips are, I could perhaps reach in and pull near them with my hand or something...
 
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2008 Mazda5 Touring
I have always started at the bottom corner and worked my way along it then the sides. Look at post 2 and you'll see the back side where the clips are located. Rarely (if ever?) have I broken any, but even if you do, they have them apart of a HELP! you can get at any auto parts store for cheap.
 
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Mazda5
The clips holding the plastic door panel are pretty sturdy. Just make sure you don't apply any lateral force, pull straight back. Don't be afraid to yank.
 

was98strat

The sharkfin is in
I'm planning to change my actuators. Or actually I tried, following these instructions, but when I got to the point where I should pull the plastic door panel out, I just wasn't sure how it can be done without breaking anything. It flexes so much without coming off that I'm afraid I'll snap those plastic clips if I pull too hard.

Any advice? If I could see where the clips are, I could perhaps reach in and pull near them with my hand or something...

The only trick to pulling is to find where the clips are located and pull at that point. I've found that a quick sharp pull works best, even then I've found that the clips stay in the body panel and don't come out with the trim piece. afterwords I just pull the clips out with a pair of needle nose pliers.
 
FYI if you have the factory alarm, the part numbers listed above are inccorrect.

they should be:
C24572350 - Passenger Side Actuator
C24573350 - Driver Side Actuator

Don't all US versions have the alarm? I need to do this repair and I'm trying to make sure I've got the right part number. 2006 Sport US version.
 
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Mazda5
My '06 Sport didn't have an alarm. I have the immobilizer, a panic button on the remote, and a blinking light on the dash that pretended I had an alarm.
 

sean486

2 Mazdas and a SVX
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2006 Mazda 5 Sport, 2005 Mazda 6 iSport, 92 Subaru SVX
Thank you so much for posting this information. I just fixed my drivers side and will be doing the passenger side soon. We have been living with 2 broken actuators for about 3 years now. Will be so nice to have both sides working again. FYI, mine cost $45.36 + $9 for shipping.
 
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2006 Mazda5 Sport
Thanks for this excellent how-to! I just replaced both sides over the weekend.

Not hard at all but next time I think I will get some of those plastic clips that hold the panels. I managed to salvage all of mine but most did break to some degree. Don't think they are meant to last.

I paid $41.44 per actuator. Also bought a new ignition switch and combined shipping cam to $16.99.

Now all the locks work and we can use the remote again. Yay!
 
It looks like this repairs is going to affect many on us who have the 1st gen of the Mazda 5. Both sides of my car only works 1/2 the time. Kw_da was kind enough to sent me his broken one and I took it apart to have it look to see if this can be repair. I know they can be bought in the US for about $45 and in Canada they cost around $65. But this looks to be a very common problem and I think after my initial inspection, the cause was a burned motor, so either the motor was under spec, the gear ratio is wrong or the spring used on the gear wheel is too strong for the motor.


Once I had it apart I took measurements of the motor and did some searches to find an replacement. I was able to find what looks to be an exact replacement on Ebay for $6.65.



http://www.ebay.ca/itm/FC-280-w-Long-D-Flat-Shaft-Car-Door-Lock-and-Mirror-Automotive-Motor-FC280PC/281332004208?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140423084956%26meid%3D8033018898438879215%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D20140423084956%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D281332004208

During my search I came upon a Honda actuator that looks exactly the same as the Mazda one. The only difference is both of the connectors are being used where the Mazda one only uses one of the 2 connectors and the portion that connects to the push rob is different. Here is the link to Banggood that has them on sale for under $10 with free shipping.

http://www.banggood.com/Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-Front-Right-FR-Side-For-Honda-Acura-Accord-p-81644.html

I have placed an order for one of these Honda actuators through Banggood but most likely will receive it 3 weeks from now. Hope this is of some help to anyone interested in repairing their actuator. I will following up with an update once I receive the Honda actuator.
 
Spend some time today trying to figure out how the mechanism works with the spring. The the motor was in such poor state it cannot turn the gear wheel at all. So, I disassembled the rest of the actuator. The lever that connects to the lock push rod was the hardest to remove because it looks to be heat welded to the lever.



The spring underneath the gear wheel was exerting a lot of tension making it very hard for the motor to turn it. I decided to shorten the spring and unwind it a bit so it will take less torque to turn the gear wheel.





With the mod, the motor was finally able to turn the mechanism but only in one direction. Here is an video of it in action, don't mine my voice, should have spoken more clearly.

[video]http://tinypic.com/r/14oc9oh/8[/video]

After seeing it in action I think I see a problem with the design, it is not mechanical but rather an electrical fault. When you press the lock or unlock button the car sends a pulse to the actuator. I think the duration of that pulse is too long, so every time the actuator is used the motor will experience stalled condition where it will receive the maximum or stall current.

It probably does not stay in the stall state very long but that damages the windings and over time this accumulates resulting in a defective actuator. Anyways that my theory.
 
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2006 Mazda 6 - auto
There is no limit switch? So if the door is already locked and I lock it again, then it's turning the motor against the stop the whole time? This probably why the motor burned out if true.
 
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