Simplified. What percentage off the CX-5 sticker?

Got it. These forums were very helpful to me as I navigated my recent new car purchase. So I'm happy to help contribute to the confidence of others, and serve as a model of how this thread should look. It might help if someone could pin the exact formula that is desired at the top. I've corrected the % off, which does not include the incentives now.

New 2020 Mazda CX-5 GTR in Machine Gray Metallic
MSRP - $36,535
Discounts: $4144
Incentives & Rebates: $2000
Net Selling Price: $30,391
Non-Gov Service Fees: $297
Total: $30,688
11.25% off

Here ya go.
 

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I noticed many of these quotes are for 2020 models, which are being discounted much more than 2021 in most cases. It would be helpful to me to know the model year so I can determine my future bid accordingly. Thanks. This thread has been very helpful to me.
 
Yes all fees not required/going to state or other agencies should be included, and price should be net off all rebates/incentives. Example as to what to include/exclude.

City transfer fee: exclude
License transer fee: exclude
State booger fee: exclude
Dealer service fee: include
Dealer Doc Fee: include
Dealer office and supply charge: Include
Dealer prep (to have lot monkey put extra scratches in your car when he washes it): Include

In other words, EVERYTHING that the dealer does not get to keep to himself. Which means sales price after rebates/incentive plus everything that is not a tax. license, or title related fee.

Post #39 above is correct. It doesn't matter where the 'discounts' or rebates show up, it is your net price before TT&L
 
I didn't include the fees in this post because I was trying to follow the guidelines of this thread (post #1) by eliminating the wide-ranging fees from the equation, and compare offers based on % off of dealer msrp.
I didn't see anything in post #1 that says to eliminate dealer fees from the equation.

You should absolutely exclude state/local government-mandated fees (sales tax, tags, registration, tire fees, ect), because they are non-negotiable and location specific.
But if you don't include all junk fees charged by the dealer, then the "sales price" is completely meaningless.

Who got a better deal...
1) Sale Price: $30,000; Dealer Doc Fee: $50
2) Sale Price: $29,000: Dealer Doc Fee: $2,550

You must include dealer fees to get a true, accurate amount paid for a vehicle.
This is why dealer #2 charges all sorts of ridiculous fees, because they can advertise a fake low "sales price" to get you in the door, but you end up paying $1500 more than dealer #1.
 
And still people are coming here with OTD price questions, SMH. However, if you ask only discuss OTD with the dealer or discuss the purchase based on monthly payments, you will become your dealer's best friend.
 
I didn't include the fees in this post because I was trying to follow the guidelines of this thread (post #1) by eliminating the wide-ranging fees from the equation, and compare offers based on % off of dealer msrp.

But if it helps anyone further on this thread, here is the total with "service fees":
New 2020 Mazda CX-5 GTR in Machine Gray Metallic
MSRP - $36,535
Net Selling Price: $30,391
Services Fee: $297
Total: $30,688
16% off
Purchased mid-Jan 2021.
Is that the Total Price you ended up paying? Can you tell me which dealership was this? I am looking for a 2020 GTR.
 
2021 Mazda CX5 Carbon Edition AWD Turbo

A. 10% off MSRP
B. +$3500 with trade in value

Overall, I am pleased with this deal and CUV.
 
I didn't trade anything in. The email solicitation method and timing at the end of the month (or in my case, end of the year) works. See attached bill of sale.
Hi Guateman, 13% or $3,863.41 off MSRP is amazing. In addition, you took advantage of the $750 loyalty and the $1,000 Cash for paying cash (I assume you didn't use financing). I am sure EOY/EOM timing played a role to get such discount but it's still so unusual. Was your vehicle a demo by any chance? Thx
 
And still people are coming here with OTD price questions, SMH. However, if you ask only discuss OTD with the dealer or discuss the purchase based on monthly payments, you will become your dealer's best friend.
@hal2 The way I see it, many people are ignorant (including myself) ...and at the end of the day, that is a part of the overall price of the car , unless you are not paying any taxes or getting away with it. It just helps others get an estimate of what would they end up paying. Taxes can differ +- 1% , but it equips the users with much better information. If we were to not pay taxes, fantastic but it would range between 2K-3K depending on trim and State where one resides and people would assess whether they are financially stable to make that investment. I see nothing wrong if somebody provides a breakdown like ; Sale Price :X My OTD was : X + 7% Tax + tag/title = $$$$$$
So take that as your estimate to shop and negotiate and may be work your way backwards on the pricing.
 
It just helps others get an estimate of what would they end up paying. Taxes can differ +- 1% , but it equips the users with much better information. If we were to not pay taxes, fantastic but it would range between 2K-3K depending on trim and State where one resides
This is absolutely wrong, and is why OTD numbers are completely useless on internet forums.
Combined state & local tax rates vary from 0% all they way to over 10%.
In addition, DMV fees to register a car can vary wildly, from $20 to $2500.

So two people can buy the same car for the same price, say $40K.
But their OTD price can vary by more than $5000, driven entirely by government fees.

https://taxfoundation.org/2020-sales-taxes/
https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-fees-should-you-pay.html

You MUST exclude all government-mandated fees from the prices you post here....
Sales tax, tags, registration, title, plates, tire fees, ect.
 
This is absolutely wrong, and is why OTD numbers are completely useless on internet forums.
Combined state & local tax rates vary from 0% all they way to over 10%.
In addition, DMV fees to register a car can vary wildly, from $20 to $2500.

So two people can buy the same car for the same price, say $40K.
But their OTD price can vary by more than $5000, driven entirely by government fees.

https://taxfoundation.org/2020-sales-taxes/
https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-fees-should-you-pay.html

You MUST exclude all government-mandated fees from the prices you post here....
Sales tax, tags, registration, title, plates, tire fees, ect.
Thanks @bluegrass
 
I'll add to this - a lot of people still want to discuss OTD as they feel that all money paid still comes out of their pocket, so I'll put this as simply as possible..... You should only be concerned with what dollars are going *to the dealer * as those are the only negotiable dollars, including DOC fees.
 
Another issue to consider...
You are likely NOT getting apples-to-apples quotes by soliciting OTD offers from multiple dealers.
Dealers often give OTD quotes based on the sales tax rate for the dealership's location.
And since sales tax rates vary across each city, county and state, the OTD calculations can be off.
 
Yeah, I'll never understand people that are insistent on OTD pricing on the internet. Maybe they're the same ones that shop based on monthly payment instead of final price.
 
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