Replacing the speakers- General thoughts on my install

popeyecahn

Member
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Ex CX5 Owner
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'23 3 PRM HB MT
I replaced the front speakers today (Infinity REF-6502ix) and the ordeal, ah umm I mean job got me to thinking about posting my thoughts and tips. I'll gladly answer any specific questions if anyone has any about this procedure.

1. Cut out the OEM speaker from its base, it's easy as the assembly is all plastic. Trim away the supports as flush as possible, they shouldn't cause a problem with fit, but they may cut you. The leads will need to be cut as will the surround. Use this to form the basis for the mounting of the replacement spkr PROVIDED the height of any elements (notably the tweeter) does not make the total height of the mount + spkr = > 3" and actually a little less would be good as the door grille is pretty flexible.

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2. The area with which to attach the new spkr is limited, make the best of it and attach the screws out as far on the spkr mounting tabs as possible and use either self tapping screws or pre-drill the hole. You may also need to cut away at the ridge for the tabs to rest flat (notching them at the placement spot) or file the ridge altogether that you have a flush mounting surface. I also used the foam tape that came with the spkrs, I would recommend this if space allows (it should...).

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3. Use the OEM connector*. After cutting the leads to the OEM spkr, solder new ones to the white connector and be done with it. Don't have a soldering iron? Borrow or buy one, butt splicing is for amateurs. And why ruin the integrity of the system (other than the spkr) when it was working fine before the replacement bug entered your butt, right? Keep it, it makes sorting out problems later on simple. Dress the wires with either ties or tape or both.

*This is not an option for adding dash speakers though as there doesn't seem to be a known connector available to the unwashed masses that will fit the speaker plate in the dash. There isn't much if any data on changing out the current dash speakers, so this only applies to us lowly 4 speaker folk.

4. The white panel fasteners will break more than you like but they may still function for the purpose. And before attempting to snap the door panel back on, remove the ones remaining in the door itself (a right, royal PITA) and set them into the door panel before attaching it. Consider buying a bag of them from the dealer, the parts dept should have them, I understand the run $1 a pop.

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5. Check you work. Twice. Trust me, having been distracted, then rushed and then I thought I was done, I attached the door panel (see above) and then while cleaning up, found 2 screws that attach the spkr mount were sitting in the floorboard. Pissed does not adequately describe my feelings.

6. Buy a set of proper tools to work with car interiors, they will save you in the long run. And all though it's still winter in many places as I write this, consider doing the work when it's warm, the plastic is more forgiving then.

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7. Finally, get the info you'll need to do the job. The link is available on this site for the service manual, get it and read through the task, pay attention to the order of things and understand how it all comes apart and goes back together. And also read others experiences and ask questions. Unless you do this kind of work for a living or are gifted in the art of taking s*** apart, assume nothing because you'll break something.

Next week I'll do the rear spkrs with some Infinity 6032si after they arrive.
 
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2 additional points:

1. When disconnecting the battery disconnect the negative, not the positive as I saw posted here in the speaker replacement thread...
2. You'll probably need to initialize the power window so that the auto open/close feature works: With the ignition on, roll the driver's window down fully open and then pull on the switch manually in the up direction to fully close it and hold the switch for 2 seconds.
 
The rear speakers went a bit better on install, but I think if I did it again I'd use the adapter/spacer that come with most spkrs. The back OEM spkr bracket doesn't have as much land to screw into for attachment, I found that a couple of screws missed the mark and didn't thread into the meat of the plastic. One of them I ended up putting epoxy on the threads so it would never back out lol

Another thing I noticed was that the plastic door panel resonates far too much for my liking and it adds to the loose, tubby bass that these cars exhibit with door spkrs. I might add either insulation or some Dynamat type material to the inside of the panel to damp out the vibrations in hopes of tightening up the bass.

Sure I could add a sub and duck the low end from the door spkrs below 150-200 hz, but I'm not interested in doing so due to the added cost/complexity.
 
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This is a fantastic writeup Popeye. I think I can handle the speaker fitment/adaptation, but like you, plastic pieces + me = more broken plastic

That said, were the door panels, generally tough go get off and back on with decent fitment?
 
This is a fantastic writeup Popeye. I think I can handle the speaker fitment/adaptation, but like you, plastic pieces + me = more broken plastic

That said, were the door panels, generally tough go get off and back on with decent fitment?

Thanks man, I wished I had more time to take photos, since they really help at times to understand things better.

Yes, once the white plastic panel clips were removed and placed onto the panel itself before installation, the panels fit well and snug have not been a problem. The plus side is that further removal of the panels is now a bit easier as the plastic clips are 'relaxed', but it doesn't seem to present any rattles and if they do the fix is quite easy (though a buck a pop, but something anyone can handle without a trip to the dealer other than to get the clips).
 
Also if you break a few clips, autozone sells black ones marked for gm cars that are similar enough in size that work. Otherwise you need to order them from the internet or hope the dealer has any.
 
Also if you break a few clips, autozone sells black ones marked for gm cars that are similar enough in size that work. Otherwise you need to order them from the internet or hope the dealer has any.

Thank you for that info! (bow)
 
Registered to say thank you for this thread. I'll be buying parts and planning to do the work in June, this is exactly what I was hoping for!
 
Registered to say thank you for this thread. I'll be buying parts and planning to do the work in June, this is exactly what I was hoping for!

Excellent, I'm happy you found it useful! Btw, do you have dash speakers and if so are you considering replacing them?
 
I think the touring comes with them (six speaker system is all I know for sure), but I'd have to check to be certain. But yes, I'm looking at replacing all of the speakers. Possibly the Dash unit eventually as well to a JVC.
 
Yeah, 2 in dash and front and rear doors. The Bose setup adds the center speaker and 2 speakers in the C-pillar. Update us when you get it installed and let us know how it went etc.
 
thanks for your write up, it helped a lot with installing my Infinity speakers, however, i still do get the occasional boomy bass which is disappointing but i think its just bad car acoustics. Now, not sure if installing the smaller 3.5 infinity speakers will help improve the sound, i already have the stock dash tweeters
 
thanks for your write up, it helped a lot with installing my Infinity speakers, however, i still do get the occasional boomy bass which is disappointing but i think its just bad car acoustics. Now, not sure if installing the smaller 3.5 infinity speakers will help improve the sound, i already have the stock dash tweeters

I put in the infinity 3002cfx 3.5 speakers, added much more clarity as its a midbass and tweeter. (http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/prod...peakers-ref-3002cfx-ref-3002cfx/10208740.aspx) Note I also used a bass blocker in line as the bass getting to the 3.5" speaker was a little much and thought over time it could damage it.

Also installed dynamat extreme in all the door panels behind the black plastic inserts. This quieted down the cabin a lot for highway driving and gave better speaker response.
 
I put in the infinity 3002cfx 3.5 speakers, added much more clarity as its a midbass and tweeter. (http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/prod...peakers-ref-3002cfx-ref-3002cfx/10208740.aspx) Note I also used a bass blocker in line as the bass getting to the 3.5" speaker was a little much and thought over time it could damage it.

Also installed dynamat extreme in all the door panels behind the black plastic inserts. This quieted down the cabin a lot for highway driving and gave better speaker response.


I think i will go with the 3.5 infinities as well, where did you buy the bass blockers? which bass blockers should i get?
 
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The Polks, came with the bass blockers.


is there any detrimental effect to mix different speakers like 6.5 infinity with 3.5 polk speakers?

and why 300hz blockers and not different freq blockers? sorry for the noob question
 
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is there any detrimental effect to mix different speakers like 6.5 infinity with 3.5 polk speakers?

and why 300hz blockers and not different freq blockers? sorry for the noob question

I would not mix speaker brands, they all have different tonal responses. Some focus on the high's and some push the low frequencies.

As for why I got 300hz, it was because it was all visions had in stock at that location and I didn't care that much about the exact frequency that it blocked (as long as it took away under 150hz for low and a small porition of mids) due to already having the 4 door speakers running fully frequency.
 
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