Rear Brakes Changed - E-Brake Gone?

M

myShift

Member
So today I changed my rear brake pads and rotors. For the back right, the piston would not go in when we turned the allen screw, so we bled the system and pushed the piston in.

After putting everything back together, we find that the parking brake is just free play, and that theres NO TENSION AT ALL. What can I do?

Thanks in advance,
Myshift
 
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with your description being a little vague... where do you live. I cuold drop by and see whats going on in person.

-Dean
 
To push the piston back in you have to turn the allen key AND I've had to use a disc brake spreader tool (or you can use a ghetto C Clamp).

Then you have to reconnect the E-brake back together again and readjust the parking brake lever.
 
We tried C-Clamping while using the allen key. It wouldn't go in, and that's why we bled the system.

We never disconnected the parking brake. I'll try adjusting the cable today.
 
The rear piston has to be turned to go back in...the fronts can be squeezed but not the rear.
 
stay away from the cables. on the back of the caliper is a bolt with a 14mm head on it. remove that bolt, and you'll uncover a 7mm socket allen bolt. that allen bolt adjusts the piston. you have to retract the piston using that bolt, swap out the pads and rotor, then readjust the piston with that allen bolt. after everything is back together, adjust the bolt so that the pads just contact the rotor, then back them off by 1/3 turn. following that procedure, your parking brake will have a perfect adjustment.
 
^werd. If you can't adjust that allen screw - the caliper is bad.

Don't just crank down the adjuster bolt on the emer brake cable - you will seize the other brake. Only adjust while on lift w/rear wheels free to rotate.
 
It may be a little late, but when I changed my pads and rotors, the same happened to me. I just kept pulling it and releasing it and after about 1-2 days of regular use, the tension came back. Hope that helps
 
bad caliper... how much is it to buy one of those then? are there any symptoms other than the allen key not working? right now it seems to be working ok. the pad isn't being dragged against the rotor, and it does get warm when i brake.
 
fishdonotbounce said:
It may be a little late, but when I changed my pads and rotors, the same happened to me. I just kept pulling it and releasing it and after about 1-2 days of regular use, the tension came back. Hope that helps
Click to expand...

That is what happened to me, actually. I didn't do the work myself but when I got the car back after changing the pads, I had these symptoms.

I assume the shop would have spotted a bad caliper.
 
myShift said:
bad caliper... how much is it to buy one of those then? are there any symptoms other than the allen key not working? right now it seems to be working ok. the pad isn't being dragged against the rotor, and it does get warm when i brake.
Click to expand...

Well, the OP said no parking brake. To get parking brake function back - you will need to adjust the allen screw until the pads just touch. If you can't adjust the allen screws - change the caliper!:)

I had a hung caliper - i paid like $60 for one at NAPA (kinda' hard to find...)
 
P-Funk! said:
Well, the OP said no parking brake. To get parking brake function back - you will need to adjust the allen screw until the pads just touch. If you can't adjust the allen screws - change the caliper!:)

I had a hung caliper - i paid like $60 for one at NAPA (kinda' hard to find...)
Click to expand...


I was quoted $45 each at autozone for rear p5 calliper after returning the core.
 
P-Funk! is right, you need to turn the rotor while you turn the allen screw in just until you feel it drag, then back it out a 1/4 turn. I just did this on Sat.
 
I am getting some feeling in the e-brake now. Before I fixed the brakes, I would have to pull it all the way up to get it not rolling on a hill. I don't think it'll get any better than that, so I'm considering turning the nut. Sound reasonable?
 
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