Questions about lowering

[jonlong]

I thought I had found threads before that answered these questions, but I'm having a hard time finding the info now, so here it goes. I plan on lowering my car in the spring with an Eibach Pro-Kit and Tokico Blue's. I will also be putting on a new set of wheels (17x7 / 215.40.17). I'd like to get as much info as I can before I do this so that I can avoid running into any complications. So, here are my questions...and feel free to add in any extra advice that you think would help.

1. Are there any special tools, parts, or hardware that I should have on hand, other than a good set of tools?

2. I've heard that the endlinks can be troublesome to remove. I'm thinking I should have an extra set of endlinks on hand in case I need to cut off the old ones. Is there any reason why I should go with AWR adjustable endlinks over another set of OEM endlinks?

3. Is there anything I should do to avoid getting the clunk that some people get after changing out springs/struts?

4. After everything is installed, I plan on getting a good alignment. Last time I had one done at Midas and all they could do was make sure it was within the acceptable range. I'm looking for settings that would are good for a daily driver (good gas mileage, low tire wear, low road noise) but still ok for an occasional auto-x or club drive and lots of spirited driving. Is there a good place to go to have this done, or specific settings i can ask for?

I know this is a lot to ask, but your advice and input will help me out a lot. Thanks for taking the time to read all of this.

 

[EMPIRE]

The eibach springs with tokico blues is a good look. As far as getting alignment for the vehicle I went to the mazda dealer ship to get it done
I would suggest for you to go there and have them do it. For you to install the springs and struts it's easy just be careful the endlinks don't break on you.

 

[jonlong]

bump, still looking for more info!

 

[jomoyo069]

No, you dont need anything special, except for a spring compressor.
I dont think you will have to worry about the endlinks or the clunk, and just get an alignment from somewhere that can do it on lowered cars

 

[aMaff]

The clunk doesn't come from springs or struts, it comes from the sway bar. On that note, I need to lube mine up here in the near future. Only thing you really NEED are spring compressors. You'll WANT a strong impact wrench. Preferably air if you've got it or can borrow it. Endlinks can be a pain, but I had an impact and they really weren't that bad. Then again, my car doesn't live in michigan. As for the alignment for performance AND street? Well...I'm not the expert. Mine's just my DD, so after I lowered her, I just got her back into factory spec.

Hope that helped

 

[sampson]

getting an alignment is a definite anytime you do any sort of suspension mods. if you dont get one, you will KILL your tires!! i took my msp to my dealer and had them do it. as far as a spring/strut install, an impact wrench will help a lot when removing the nut from the endlinks and it also helps when using the spring compressors. it CAN be a PITA without an impact wrench. overall, the process is not very hard. 2 weekends ago, a buddy of mine and me changed the springs on on jessica's (gapeachsp5) p5 and it took a little over an hour, mind you i have done about 10 spring/strut installs on proteges. other than the basic hand tools, the only other thing you will need is a spring compressor (the strut kind at advance auto parts, which is on their loan-a-tool program.) its not a hard install, but if this is your first time, be prepared to spend a few hours doing it. good luck and post pics when youre done!!

 

[WRCprotege]

doing the right alignment will make as big of an improvment as replacing shocks/springs with performance ones..if you auto-x ALOT the toe out the rear end a little.. this makes the car rotate easyer, but also makes it a little squirrely at at higher speeds <--above 80.. but seing that you live in snow country Id say toe in the rear a little more, this will keep her stable at high/low speeds and help keep the rear end planted in the snow/ice.. my car has LOTS of toe in and camber in the rear for my winter set up, i travel from louisville ky to aspen co every jan, and im ther for a month with lots of snow.. the car does great with this set up,, and running I-70 through mountain passes at 100+ is gravy, its so stable, and lock in the corner.. just do the suspension set to your needs.. just a little front and rear toe can make all differance, also you want all the camber you can get....
the winter set up- look at the rear lots of camber and toe in- summer set up little camber very little rear toe and alot lower ride height-
OH AND COAT -EVERY BOLT- WITH ANTI SIZE COMPOUND this makes life easy when changing or adjusting things later on, and will usually guarantee that you do break your strip and bolts.. antisize the endlink bolts

 

[jonlong]

Sounds good guys, thanks for all the valuable info.

Anyone know the advantage to the AWR endlinks over stock?

 

[jeg0024]

I dont think there is any advantage over the AWR endlinks unless you get the adjustable ones. You should be able to still use your endlinks, you might just have to take extra care in getting the end link nuts off if you happen to strip them. I even had air tools and it couldnt get the nut knocked loose. I think it helps to have some pb blaster or wd-40 to help remove some of the rust, but I also think it makes the job harder because the fact that the threads move as well. Here is my how to I wrote up when I did my install, it should help if you have any questions or needs some pics to look at. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123660197

 

[FlyinMSP]

I suggest you wait about a week before you do the alignment, so it has the time to settle properly....

 

[jeg0024]

I suggest you wait about a week before you do the alignment, so it has the time to settle properly....

Yeah, that might be a good idea too. I got mine done right away and I have noticed some setteling sence but im sure its not off enough to mess anything up, but its better to be off for a week and then get an alignment than do it right away and have it off afterwards.