Protege5 Suspension Madness

[RensoreK]

I've got an issue I cannot seem to resolve for the life of me. My wagon has become increasingly noisy. I've replaced almost all the suspension components across the last several months. Sway bar bushings, strut mounts + front strut bearings , links, CV Axle Shafts, ball joints, wheel Hubs, rear trailing arms, struts are gas struts replaced < 10,000 miles ago.

My symptoms are a low "plop" when usually at low speeds on uneven road surfaces. I suspect a combination of front control arms (squeaky and weak) and bad struts are to blame (although it doesn't seem like it). I want to get a better idea before I shell out $400 for new struts. Need my suspension in order because I want to put new tires on the vehicle but want them to last. I got some tires previously and the suspension problems ate away at my tires to where in under a year they were no good.

 

[katapaltes]

If your struts are original, then they likely need replacing. I just replaced my originals this year at around 105,000 miles. If you can do the work yourself, all four struts will run ~$200 plus shipping. Rock auto.com has KYB for $200 and Monroe ones are a little cheaper with rebate. If any other part of the strut assembly has worn out, you'll need to replace it too. Also, don't buy Kumho tires in case you were considering doing so. [emoji3]


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[Ilikebikes]

struts are gas struts replaced < 10,000 miles ago.

If your struts are original, then they likely need replacing.

He said he replaced them.

OP, what brand did you use?

 

[RensoreK]

He said he replaced them. OP, what brand did you use?

Originally had KYB GR-2 Excel struts. I started getting klunks and replaced them with Stagg Gas Struts. Turned out to be broken rubber on strut mounts and bad plastic bearings in the front. I visually inspected the Staggs and no leaks, no obvious signs of damage. I can rock the vehicle and I cannot reproduce the noise, only when driving. The wagon doesn't bounce around its actually quite stable, no signs of sagging either. Seems to be slightly dropped (I purchased it like that and that's all I know). Attached are images for reference.

 

[RensoreK]

If your struts are original, then they likely need replacing. I just replaced my originals this year at around 105,000 miles. If you can do the work yourself, all four struts will run ~$200 plus shipping. Rock auto.com has KYB for $200 and Monroe ones are a little cheaper with rebate. If any other part of the strut assembly has worn out, you'll need to replace it too. Also, don't buy Kumho tires in case you were considering doing so. [emoji3] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's the "plus shipping" part that makes the struts expensive, and I bought Kumho tires once, wasn't worth it. Thinking about going to some Hankooks.

 

[MrGiggles]

Sway bar links and bushings or the control arm/ball joint.

 

[mattzerstoren]

Sway bar links and bushings or the control arm/ball joint.

I was gunna say LCAs as well...if you end up needing these, avoid AutoZone parts! I put a pair of AZ LCAs on my P5 and as soon as I lowered the full weight of the car off the jack and back onto the suspension, the boots around the ball joint tore. I ended up returning those and waiting another week (at the time) for my Hardrace LCAs to come in. I've had the Hardrace LCAs on for about 6 months now, and I check them periodically every 2-4 weeks and they've held up just fine! They're a bit more expensive, but as they say, when you buy quality parts, you only cry once.

 

[RensoreK]

A lot of the noise comes from the rear passenger side. Other than strut mounts, links, sway bar bushings, and trailing arm (all have been replaced in the past 4 months), what is left to verify??

 

[sleeprp5]

I cant tell clearly from your pics if your car is lowered or not however I remember when I put eibachs on my p5 I had to use some washers between the top hats and the nut that holds them on because the tokicos werent threaded down far enough on the shaft to seat the spring and it was reported it would wobble around and cause a clunking noise. I read that and added the washers when I did the install so I never experienced it first hand. Perhaps thats something to look into. that and make sure you have all the nuts and bolts torqued down properly.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

Sidenote - your wheels look similar to mine with different finish - cool

 

[nailman]

I cant tell clearly from your pics if your car is lowered or not however I remember when I put eibachs on my p5 I had to use some washers between the top hats and the nut that holds them on because the tokicos werent threaded down far enough on the shaft to seat the spring and it was reported it would wobble around and cause a clunking noise. I read that and added the washers when I did the install so I never experienced it first hand. Perhaps thats something to look into. that and make sure you have all the nuts and bolts torqued down properly.

I am having this issue also and I never thought of this. THANKS!

 

[sleeprp5]

youre welcome. there are several threads about using the lowering springs and clunking. they are visibly shorter and as a result you dont even need a spring compressor to reinstall them. if it was that easy to replace struts for you you probably need the washers. if you needed a compressor chances are you dont need the washers.