Protege have the same radiator support as a p5???

SocialStealth

Member
:
2002 Mazda Protege ES, 120k miles
02 protege and 02 p5,

Do they have the same radiator supports?

Also, how hard is it to take the radiator support out and replace it?
 
Its welded...you should have a professional do a job like this.

Not only does it need to be spot welded properly...but it needs meet perfect measurement so everything will line up as it should.

This is NOT a DIY project by any means.
 
Its welded...you should have a professional do a job like this.

Not only does it need to be spot welded properly...but it needs meet perfect measurement so everything will line up as it should.

This is NOT a DIY project by any means.

Is it REALLY that important? Mines twisted right now and it drivers perfectly fine. If its lined up by myself would it cause any damage?
 
i was told they are the same supports...you will have to get a drill bit for spot welds to cut the welds out...then it has to be mig welded back in...not diffcult if you are welder friendly?..
 
Yes...Its really that important to get it in right if you want the Bumper, fenders, hood, and light to line up properly.

It will drive just fine all twited and installed wrong.....But thats not the point.

The item does not bolt in.....DO you have a spot welder?
If not....I suggest you seek the help of a professional.
 
The body shop I went to wanted 600 to put a new radiator support in, and thats after I get the part myself.

Can't I just rent a mig welder from home depot :\

I can mark the weld spots and line it up according to that.
Do body shops have machines that attach radiator supports?


I found this how-to, and it doesn't include any welding? It says the support is bolted in... ??? Any insight on this?

forum. mazda 6club .com/index.php?showtopic=43123

sry have to manually type the link in, and delete the spaces. It won't let me post the link...
 
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Dude....I am telling you the Core Support for this car DOES NOT BOLT IN.
End of story there.

And feel free to try to do this yourself....and when it doesn't work...then pay the body shop $1000 to fix what you have messed up.

Seriously....just pay them to do it right the first time....I am betting it will cost you much less in the long run.
 
If I replace it myself... and I don't align it completely right, it will just be a cosmetic problem, right?

I don't think a little space between the head light and bumper is worth 600$ (ugh)

Nothing a hammer can't fix!




Should I get the shop to straighten the unibody (with a car-o-liner)
And then replace the rad support?
Or should I try to replace it first then have then straighten it?

Is it possible to have the unibody straightened with a bent rad support?
 
Dude...just your posts alone tell me you do not have the mechanical aptitude to tackle this job.

Take it to a pro....I will not help nor contribute to this matter any further.
 
ok ok ok,
But can you tell me what parts are connected to the radiator support?
Maybe I can take them off before I bring the car in, to reduce the labor cost


In order to put the car on a car-o-liner, do they have to take the rad support off? If they do.. then it shouldn't cost much extra to put a new one on, right?
 
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ok ok ok,
But can you tell me what parts are connected to the radiator support?
Maybe I can take them off before I bring the car in, to reduce the labor cost


In order to put the car on a car-o-liner, do they have to take the rad support off? If they do.. then it shouldn't cost much extra to put a new one on, right?

get the condensor, radiator and cooling fans out of there...you also need to pull the headlights, grille, and bumper cover...this support may also require both fenders to be pulled....plus all lower plastic...

if they put the car on the car o liner they want the support in there to pull the car back to where its supposed to be...then they put the new support in...

car-o-liner isnt necessary if the support is the only damage though..they use this mainly to pull the strut towers back or the apron, frame rails etc..
 
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You will need to remove the front bumper, both front fenders, and probably the hood(ok you don't have to but might as well. The inner fenders(part you see inside the engine bay will attach to the core support. If you do this do a lot of measuring, Make sure you keep the distance between them the same. I would also measure the distance from the top of the core support to the ground in several places to make sure you don't have it to high or low.(with the body panels off so there is not a weight difference) Where there are intersections of panels(not fenders, but welded panels) take pictures so you know how they align. Measure a whole lot, more then what you would think and write it down. They make a spot welder removal tool which is nice, get it with a few extra cutting bits, you will pre drill all the spot welds with a small bit then use the spot weld cutter to remove the welds. once the core support is off grind all the spot welds flat(make sure to cover painted areas and glass metal fragments will embed them self in those) Once they are all smooth apply some weld through primer to all the bare metal. Pre drill or punch holes about the size of your spot weld cutters dimensions in the new panel and tack it on there. Measure, then measure again. Then start filling in your holes. Move around and don't put to much heat in one place. Heat will do funny things and make the metal grow and shrink in weird ways. Don't move around in a circle. I did one in the dark in about 3 hours. Panels fit fine, and it held up well, until the truck was wreaked again.

But to warn you, i have a decent amount of experience doing this...
 
You will need to remove the front bumper, both front fenders, and probably the hood(ok you don't have to but might as well. The inner fenders(part you see inside the engine bay will attach to the core support. If you do this do a lot of measuring, Make sure you keep the distance between them the same. I would also measure the distance from the top of the core support to the ground in several places to make sure you don't have it to high or low.(with the body panels off so there is not a weight difference) Where there are intersections of panels(not fenders, but welded panels) take pictures so you know how they align. Measure a whole lot, more then what you would think and write it down. They make a spot welder removal tool which is nice, get it with a few extra cutting bits, you will pre drill all the spot welds with a small bit then use the spot weld cutter to remove the welds. once the core support is off grind all the spot welds flat(make sure to cover painted areas and glass metal fragments will embed them self in those) Once they are all smooth apply some weld through primer to all the bare metal. Pre drill or punch holes about the size of your spot weld cutters dimensions in the new panel and tack it on there. Measure, then measure again. Then start filling in your holes. Move around and don't put to much heat in one place. Heat will do funny things and make the metal grow and shrink in weird ways. Don't move around in a circle. I did one in the dark in about 3 hours. Panels fit fine, and it held up well, until the truck was wreaked again.

But to warn you, i have a decent amount of experience doing this...

Where do you live?
 

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