PCB's Unbuild Thread

Hmm...

Well, I can get some paint made up at NAPA where I give them my color code (A3E) and they whip up a pint of exact match paint for me for about $40.
That self-adhesive metal looks interesting...

My biggest problem is that I really suck at bodywork.

This is my attempt at refinishing my rear wing after the clear coat peeled off.





I made it worse, ... I should have just left it alone. And I used cheap clearcoat that went bad in a few weeks.

I'll maybe consider doing something with it when the weather gets nicer but I really don't care all that much.
That's all just superficial rust and I get it undercoated every year as well as spray down the rusty spots on the surface with this stuff...



I really like the fluid film but it's expensive. The rust cure goes on sale for $6 a can.


This is my driver's door when it's cleaned off.
The paint is just barely hanging on and I'd have a 5" spot of rust showing if I scrub too hard.

 
Yikes whatever you do, dont use a pressure washer. Maybe just gently run water and soap over it. I feel like your hand would just go through that bottom wheel arch, these body panels are THIN
 
Yeeeeap, bodywork sucks! Perfect paint is basically a myth for proteges lol

Punch all the rust out, stuff the door full of newspaper and bondo over it :D
 
I may be able to cut out a piece of my parts car door and glue it on???

I dunno, .. or if I want to bother...

I might just let her rot...

It took three years for it to rust through the door...

I might make it five more before the door falls right off.

 
Maybe with the nice weather coming, I might feel inspired to do something about it.

I might just keep it covered in oil and ignore it.

That's just the rust that's showing and it's everywhere.
I don't want to open up a whole can of worms for a $10 car. Lol


Even getting the side skirt off to get at it would probably be a problem.

Everything might just crumble.
 
I picked off the flaking paint from the rusty spot in the wheel arch because it was hard for the rustproofing to get up under the bubbled paint.

Then I sprayed it down giving me time to procrastinate. Lol







It's not too bad at that spot and the metal is still quite solid.



I didn't pick off the paint from the door spot because it would really show and it looks like it's right through.

I just resprayed it.



 
Ewwwwwww nasty :(
How's the door on the parts car? Might be a whole lot easier to swap the whole thing lol

I swear by POR15 for rust prevention, super tough and easy to apply, can be pricey though and it's a pain to clean up.
 
This is the door from the parts car...




It's got rust in the corner of the door but the spot in the middle is still clean and I could cut it out for my DD.
It's got the curve of the metal from the exact same spot so it should line up perfectly and fit right over top.


I've looked into the POR15 before and from what I remember, the metal has to be completely clean and rust-free before you apply it and that simply isn't possible for my car, even when I first got my car.

It's also not possible to apply it inside the pillars and frame rails and other hard to reach areas.

I would certainly consider it if I could ever afford a new car (or a rust-free one) but I would still be using it in combination with regular rust spray to get to the hidden areas.


One thing I did years ago on a different car was to just simply leave the rusted area there and sand it down just until it's flush.

Then I cut out a piece of fiberglass that extends about 2" beyond the rust all the way around.

Then it's well connected to good metal and the rusty area in the middle works to support the wet fiberglass and keep it flush and smooth.

Then I covered it with Bondo to feather it in then sprayed down the backside of the patch with oil or even covered it with grease.

The only real problem with that technique is that the patch is about 1/8" thick and will show a high spot but it will certainly look better than the rust spot I have now.
 
I believe with POR-15 you just have to remove any loose rust. That's the case with chassis saver anyway. I've used chassis saver and I would again. Not sure which is cheaper. About $30 for a quart of chassis saver. People use it for frame restorations, I used it for my floor pans.
 
The problem I found with anything that hardens is that it seals water up against the frame.

I was scraping under my car and the rust had crept 3 to 4 inches underneath the Factory undercoating spray that was there.

It's better to have bare metal that dries instead of staying wet and better yet to have it coated with oil that seals oxygen away from the metal.

Stuff like bed liner, asphalt undercoating, and rubberized undercoating all harden up and can make rust worse unless the metal is completely clean before you put it on and it bonds.


I whipped up an old school type of undercoating using half grease and half Roofing tar and heated it on the stove so I could spread it.

It worked really good and it kept the surface of the metal wet with oiliness so that it wouldn't rust.

It's a pain in the ass to whip it up and apply it and it makes a big mess but now I just go and get undercoated every year instead.
 
Here's a link to my battle with rust.

I Bought A Gallon Of Rust-Proofing

I've decided to make my own undercoating,... 2 parts tar, 2 parts grease, 1 part varsol. Cook on medium low for 20 minutes. Brush on underside of car. Its my own messipe,... I think it might work. We'll see. I'm gonna miss the asbestos though,... they always ban the good stuff.
www.mazdas247.com www.mazdas247.com












My tar/grease mixture worked great and has been good for over 7 years now.


It hardens up just enough to not be a goopy mess stuck to my carpets but remains oily enough to keep the area coated with oil/grease and hold out moisture.

It cost me about $15 for over a gallon of the stuff and I believe it works better because it stays greasy.
 
Man I'm getting flashbacks to fixing my Triumph lol that thing rusted for fun and it still wasn't as bad as yours!
 
I decided to remove the transmission from my parts car just to tear it apart and try to figure out how it works.
Another unbuild just for something to do. Lol

I got some pointers from 31N007 who informed me that you can remove the transmission without pulling the engine.

The first thing was the driver's side driveshaft and after looking at it I decided to just cut it so I don't have to deal with a seized axle/hub.





Then I realized that I only want to look at the gears and such and that I can probably remove just the gearbox then I can leave a lot of rusty crap alone and not have to support the engine.

I only had to remove the driver's side mount.





I remembered that you can do the 5th gear swap by just removing the end cap on the transmission so I unbolted it.

I didn't have enough clearance to get the cap out so I went at the wheel well with my grinder.





Then I tried to pull the axle out of the transmission but I couldn't get it out.




That's as far as I got today.
I'm thinking about attaching a chain to the axle and to my sledgehammer to get some weight behind it.

The prybar just kept popping off.

Maybe a chisel with a fat tapered head will fill the gap?
 
I repurposed my parts car into a grow cab.





Welcome to Canada EH !!

So, ... Where to put my next thr3 plants ?
 
I got the axle out...






The chisel worked.
I had to cut it to the right thickness to push on the shoulder without hitting the inner axle.











 
This is the wing that I tried to clean up and put clearcoat on last year. Lol


 
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