PCB's Unbuild Thread

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I did my drive mode stuff and the FSM said to do drive mode 1 first.
I don't think I've ever done it before? It felt really wrong to rev the engine in neutral at 3000 RMP for 15 seconds, not to mention revving it at 5000. Then I went for a drive to complete drive mode 3, came back home, and checked it with my scanner, and I passed everything!! Yay. Even drive mode 4!!

I didn't think drive mode 4 would complete because my tank is almost full, but I guess my gas tank is below 85% full. So everything worked out fine. My used O2 sensor is working and it didn't take too much effort to replace it.

I was worried that I might have an expensive, labor-intensive repair with my EVAP system when I first popped the code. It popped just after I filled the tank, but apparently, it waits for two drive cycles to throw that code and I had just restarted my car after filling up.

I actually pulled over and checked my gas cap to make sure I tightened it, thinking I could have an EVAP leak. I remember driving home wondering what was wrong, ... is this her last gasp and now she's off to junkyard?

I think she was just looking for some attention and didn't want to prank too bad. Lol
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
EDIT: You have the info so never mind lol

No, I didn't, actually.
I saved the PDF.
I guess what I did was what was described.

I even turned off my Daytime Running Lights by pulling up my parking brake one click. And I guess I managed to get both done at once without the 5 hour waiting period. I don't think I've ever done the drive cycles.

I've disconnected the battery many times and I would just hop in and drive with the only thing to worry about was the IAC trying to learn how to not stall my car. Lol I would only plug in my scanner if the CEL came on.

Even the CEL being on doesn't matter anymore because our provincial government has canceled the emissions test for Ontario. I still want my car running properly though and would have bought a new O2 sensor if I had to. It's about $50 all in with shipping.
 

323

(u_u) ...zZzZzzz
Moderator
I think she was just looking for some attention and didn't want to prank too bad. Lol

Hope the pranks aren't contagious hopping from one thread to another. I've never heard of the drive cycles either. That's interesting.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Hope the pranks aren't contagious hopping from one thread to another.

Well, I'm staying off your thread then.
Your car is pranking you nasty. Lol

I've never heard of the drive cycles either. That's interesting.

I've always known about them but never bothered with them.
The drive cycles would just finish up with me just driving my car.

It's a bit confusing because I almost never rev my car past about 3000 RPM except for about once a month when I will rev it up to redline to blow out my cats. (As my brother-in-law told me to do.)

I makes me nervous to red line it.
That's when something might blow up, or major car parts come flying off. Lol
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
This is my old O2 sensor and you can see where I rounded off the hex with the wrench.



Luckily, I know better by now to stop with the wrench after it twists off the first time, or you'll bugger it up so bad that nothing works.

This is my 22mm 6 point socket that I used to get it off.


It's cool because it grabs the flats of the hex and won't round off a bolt nearly as easily.

And, it's got the points of the hex hollowed out so it will fit over a semi-rounded bolt or nut. I also realized that the O2 sensor is 22mm which sounded like an odd number for our car, but then realized that it's the SAE equivalent of 7/8", so that must be the standard.

I guess that's why there's not a bunch of sizes for an O2 socket.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Look how expensive the JIS bits I bought are now...






I don't remember what I paid, but it weren't no sixty-seven bucks. Lol I think I've got the real McCoy? It's made and shipped from Japan and all the writing is in Japanese.



Apparently, there was the original version then the new version that works better in a Phillips head screw.

The Japanese Industrial Standard was changed to better suit a Phillips head.
 

31N007

31N007
:
Mazda Protege5
The Japanese Industrial Standard was changed to better suit a Phillips head.

In similar vein, I am only majorly jealous you guys use the Robertson bit so widely. Stinking Henry Ford...

Glad you got the O2 off! I was hoping it wouldn't come to removing the J-pipe because without a doubt there would be one of the 7 bolts/nuts giving you issues if that were the case. I even managed to break a stud on my North Carolina Pro5 the canister cat is that much of a pain... Constant heat cycling likely doesn't help.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
In similar vein, I am only majorly jealous you guys use the Robertson bit so widely. Stinking Henry Ford...

Our Canadian dude Robertson went to talk with Henry Ford and wanted a commission on the Robertson square head and Ford said no. Ford wanted to buy all the rights to it. Robertson said forget it and came back home to Canada. Ford wouldn't even give him 1% commission. The square head stayed in Canada.

A bunch of us Canadians went down to the lower states to help out with fixing up after a Hurricane. We came with our fancy square head screws and driver bits. You guys loved them. The screw stays on the bit without falling off. Way faster and easier.

Then the US came out with Torx. Which are two squares. Torx bits have a number 27.
They all go up by 5's 10, 15, 20, 25, 30... etc A Torx 27 is a Robertson #2 times two.

No copyright infringement.

Glad you got the O2 off! I was hoping it wouldn't come to removing the J-pipe because without a doubt there would be one of the 7 bolts/nuts giving you issues if that were the case. I even managed to break a stud on my North Carolina Pro5 the canister cat is that much of a pain... Constant heat cycling likely doesn't help.
If I had to remove the J-pipe, I would have ended up having to replace the entire exhaust. Lol

A 2 1/2" wood screw hanging straight down from a Bosch #2 Robertson bit. No magnets or magic. It just fits.
 

31N007

31N007
:
Mazda Protege5
I did know about the licensing, but did NOT know about the T27 tidbit, so thank you for that! Further, I would have thought the Torx bit was a German (or at the very least, European) confabulation, but the point (heh) about the engagement being higher was something I'd also stumbled across.

And yeah, it turned out my North Carolina car wasn't as rust-free as I had hoped when I snapped the centre through-bolt that goes through the rear bushing on the LCA when I wrecked it last summer. The crash may have weakened it, but the bolt looked like it had a fair bit of surface rust, which likely didn't help much!!
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
Yup, you're right it was Germany.



Oh, and it's a six-sided shape, not two squares but a Robertson #2 fits a Torx #27 quite nicely.

EDIT: It looks like Torx is American, and the Germans invented a similar screw head.



 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I backed my car into the driveway today and saw a puff of smoke/steam come out of the front of my car. I popped the hood and found that my overflow tank was empty. I filled it to the full line then removed the rad cap when it was cool. It was full to the top.

I'm gonna consider it fixed. It took more than five years to use up half a litter of rad fluid.

If there are any bubbles in the system, they should work themselves out.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
A list of quick links...


 

Antoine

Administrator
You ok there @pcb? What’s with the sudden stream of completely unrelated pics? Mistake? Please clarify because it’s way Off Topic and will need to be cleaned up. Thanks.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I was drunk...
I cleaned it up.
I left the pictures of when I did donuts in the parking lot.
That was related to my car. Lol
 

323

(u_u) ...zZzZzzz
Moderator
I feel like someone needs to grab a front clip of a p5 and turn the engine bay portion into a gbbq. that someone should be you pcb.

 
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