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PCB's Unbuild Thread

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
Hmm...

Well, I can get some paint made up at NAPA where I give them my color code (A3E) and they whip up a pint of exact match paint for me for about $40.
That self-adhesive metal looks interesting...

My biggest problem is that I really suck at bodywork.

This is my attempt at refinishing my rear wing after the clear coat peeled off.





I made it worse, ... I should have just left it alone. And I used cheap clearcoat that went bad in a few weeks.

I'll maybe consider doing something with it when the weather gets nicer but I really don't care all that much.
That's all just superficial rust and I get it undercoated every year as well as spray down the rusty spots on the surface with this stuff...



I really like the fluid film but it's expensive. The rust cure goes on sale for $6 a can.


This is my driver's door when it's cleaned off.
The paint is just barely hanging on and I'd have a 5" spot of rust showing if I scrub too hard.

 
:
Mazda protege5
Yikes whatever you do, dont use a pressure washer. Maybe just gently run water and soap over it. I feel like your hand would just go through that bottom wheel arch, these body panels are THIN
 
:
2001 Mazda SP20 323
Yeeeeap, bodywork sucks! Perfect paint is basically a myth for proteges lol

Punch all the rust out, stuff the door full of newspaper and bondo over it :D
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
I may be able to cut out a piece of my parts car door and glue it on???

I dunno, .. or if I want to bother...

I might just let her rot...

It took three years for it to rust through the door...

I might make it five more before the door falls right off.

 
:
2003 Mazda Protege5
If we're being serious the best thing to do would be to punch it out, clean it with a wire brush, and paint it so it doesn't continue to rust. Then you can cover it however you'd like.

Rust repair

I recommend this.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
Maybe with the nice weather coming, I might feel inspired to do something about it.

I might just keep it covered in oil and ignore it.

That's just the rust that's showing and it's everywhere.
I don't want to open up a whole can of worms for a $10 car. Lol


Even getting the side skirt off to get at it would probably be a problem.

Everything might just crumble.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
I picked off the flaking paint from the rusty spot in the wheel arch because it was hard for the rustproofing to get up under the bubbled paint.

Then I sprayed it down giving me time to procrastinate. Lol







It's not too bad at that spot and the metal is still quite solid.



I didn't pick off the paint from the door spot because it would really show and it looks like it's right through.

I just resprayed it.



 
:
2001 Mazda SP20 323
Ewwwwwww nasty :(
How's the door on the parts car? Might be a whole lot easier to swap the whole thing lol

I swear by POR15 for rust prevention, super tough and easy to apply, can be pricey though and it's a pain to clean up.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
This is the door from the parts car...




It's got rust in the corner of the door but the spot in the middle is still clean and I could cut it out for my DD.
It's got the curve of the metal from the exact same spot so it should line up perfectly and fit right over top.


I've looked into the POR15 before and from what I remember, the metal has to be completely clean and rust-free before you apply it and that simply isn't possible for my car, even when I first got my car.

It's also not possible to apply it inside the pillars and frame rails and other hard to reach areas.

I would certainly consider it if I could ever afford a new car (or a rust-free one) but I would still be using it in combination with regular rust spray to get to the hidden areas.


One thing I did years ago on a different car was to just simply leave the rusted area there and sand it down just until it's flush.

Then I cut out a piece of fiberglass that extends about 2" beyond the rust all the way around.

Then it's well connected to good metal and the rusty area in the middle works to support the wet fiberglass and keep it flush and smooth.

Then I covered it with Bondo to feather it in then sprayed down the backside of the patch with oil or even covered it with grease.

The only real problem with that technique is that the patch is about 1/8" thick and will show a high spot but it will certainly look better than the rust spot I have now.
 
:
2003 Mazda Protege5
I believe with POR-15 you just have to remove any loose rust. That's the case with chassis saver anyway. I've used chassis saver and I would again. Not sure which is cheaper. About $30 for a quart of chassis saver. People use it for frame restorations, I used it for my floor pans.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
The problem I found with anything that hardens is that it seals water up against the frame.

I was scraping under my car and the rust had crept 3 to 4 inches underneath the Factory undercoating spray that was there.

It's better to have bare metal that dries instead of staying wet and better yet to have it coated with oil that seals oxygen away from the metal.

Stuff like bed liner, asphalt undercoating, and rubberized undercoating all harden up and can make rust worse unless the metal is completely clean before you put it on and it bonds.


I whipped up an old school type of undercoating using half grease and half Roofing tar and heated it on the stove so I could spread it.

It worked really good and it kept the surface of the metal wet with oiliness so that it wouldn't rust.

It's a pain in the ass to whip it up and apply it and it makes a big mess but now I just go and get undercoated every year instead.
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 mazda protege 5
Here's a link to my battle with rust.













My tar/grease mixture worked great and has been good for over 7 years now.


It hardens up just enough to not be a goopy mess stuck to my carpets but remains oily enough to keep the area coated with oil/grease and hold out moisture.

It cost me about $15 for over a gallon of the stuff and I believe it works better because it stays greasy.
 
:
2001 Mazda SP20 323
Man I'm getting flashbacks to fixing my Triumph lol that thing rusted for fun and it still wasn't as bad as yours!
 

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