Paddle Shift Install - 2016 CX-5

I know Mazda 3 and 6 and the CX-3 all have paddle shifting available in North America. Is there a way we could find out if the parts would fit on the CX-5 or are the equivalent of the ones u listed above ?


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I have a 2016 CX5 with IActivSense & Radar Cruise control and I installed the paddle shifters on my vehicle (Japan Parts). Took me a few hours (I work slow but very detailed) and they work 100%. Instant downshifts and upshifts using the paddle shifters. If you stop using the paddle shifters for a while the computer will put it back automatically into auto mode.

It works and appears 100% factory OEM since it is 100% OEM. I would bet most Mazda techs if they saw it would think it was a factory installed option, since it is a factory installed option on all other Mazda's (Mazda3, Mazda6, MX5, soon to be CX9)
 
help please. I installed the kit but paddle shifting doesn't work... Do I need connect the airbag and horn for it to work? I didn't want to connect the airbag back until I was sure it's working. All other electronics on my steering wheel work fine.

Did not throw a code or warning light without the airbag?
You should not reconnect the battery, without an airbag.
Did you connect the wire harness under the steering wheel?
 
Did not throw a code or warning light without the airbag?
You should not reconnect the battery, without an airbag.
Did you connect the wire harness under the steering wheel?

This would be my guess why it's not working. Everything else is almost impossible to get wrong. My bet would be that either this was not connected or it was incorrectly connected.
 
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Ordered the kit from japanparts, selected without adaptive cruise control, because my car has the regular cruise control, lo and behold they sent the cable with no way to connect to the right pod. Just a heads up of anyone doing the same, choose with adaptive cruise control when you order.
 
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Ordered the kit from japanparts, selected without adaptive cruise control, because my car has te regular cruise control, lo and behold they sent the cable with no way to connect to the right pod. Just a heads up of anyone doing the same, chose with adaptive cruise control when you order.


So for a 2016 CX-5 with normal cruise control the right parts are


479-006-001

479-006-002 (option #15)

479-006-003

Correct ?


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So for a 2016 CX-5 with normal cruise control the right parts are


479-006-001

479-006-002 (option #15)

479-006-003

Correct ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Correct, when you order from japanparts, select Option #15 on part No : 479-006-002, whether or not you have radar cruise or normal cruise control.
 
Hey guys, I attempted this mod yesterday and everything was going smoothly until I got to the step of connecting the wires into the two harnesses under the steering column. I was having a hell of a time trying to push them into their slots. So much so that the metal tips on the wires actually broke.

I've reordered the wires, so I'll be waiting a few weeks til they get here from japanparts, but can anyone give some tips on the correct way to insert the wires? I thought it would be pretty straightforward, but they just weren't going in smoothly at all.

I was so bummed out. So close!
 
Hey guys, I attempted this mod yesterday and everything was going smoothly until I got to the step of connecting the wires into the two harnesses under the steering column. I was having a hell of a time trying to push them into their slots. So much so that the metal tips on the wires actually broke.

I've reordered the wires, so I'll be waiting a few weeks til they get here from japanparts, but can anyone give some tips on the correct way to insert the wires? I thought it would be pretty straightforward, but they just weren't going in smoothly at all.

I was so bummed out. So close!

Typically they are keyed, and shaped so that they go in only one direction and orientation, and the wires spring metal tab has to go all the way past the plastic locking tab. There is typically no forcing or much pressure required if things are lined up right.

You were inserting the pins while the plastic harness connector was unplugged, or plugged in?
 
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i messed up, i had the same issues as SK77X, but one of the metal tips broke off inside the white harness and i have no way of pulling it out! not only that but the left pod (volume, voice control, phone control) no longer works! how can i fix this!
 
Pondo, strip a 2-3 inch of coaxial tv cable. Use that stiff small copper wire to push it out from the plug-in side of the harness. It'll work.
 
I'm actually in the same boat as you Pondo, the metal piece is stuck inside the harness. So frustrating!

Let me know if you find a way to get it out. I'll do the same.
 
I'm with Mazdadude, you should not need that much force to insert these wires. If you do, something is wrong...stop and look closer before continuing. I believe that connector needs to be unlocked before inserting the wires (if memory serves me), are you doing that first or just trying to shove the wires in there? (Refer to the picture in post #46 of this thread)
 
hmmm i did not know i needed to unlock the white connector, i must have missed that part, i basically force pushed all the wires in there. My cable got stuck in the small white connector, not the wide 16 hole one. Either way don't know what im goint to say at the dealer tomorrow. I damaged the wire harness with the short prongs. Here is hoping the long one Works.

Might want to specify that in your guide OP. The fact that we need to open the connectors before putting cables inside.
 
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I'm with Mazdadude, you should not need that much force to insert these wires. If you do, something is wrong...stop and look closer before continuing. I believe that connector needs to be unlocked before inserting the wires (if memory serves me), are you doing that first or just trying to shove the wires in there? (Refer to the picture in post #46 of this thread)


Looking at the image linked in post #46, what exactly is going on? Are you supposed to push a screwdriver in there to unlock the harness and then you insert the wires?

In answering your question, I did not 'unlock' the harness, I simply tried to push the wires in both harnesses.
 
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I didn't use a screwdriver, but yes most (all??) automotive harnesses require you to unlock the connector in some fashion before inserting or removing wires.
 
I didn't use a screwdriver, but yes most (all??) automotive harnesses require you to unlock the connector in some fashion before inserting or removing wires.

This is correct. All harnesses on the Cx5 (at least in my experience) need to be unlocked in order to add or remove pins from them. Be careful with them thought, they tend to go to waste rather quick when not handled properly.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Yeah, be really careful when unlocking. The last think you want/need is for other random wires to pull out with any excess tension. That would be a nightmare.
 
For those like myself who weren't aware of the need to unlock the wiring harness before insert or removing wires, here's a helpful video to show what you need to do. The video is not specific to the CX-5, but the idea is the same in that you need to release the 'guard' (see 8:40 onwards).


Pondo, I am going to give this a go to remove my broken metal connector. Hopefully it unlocks it and it slides on out.
 
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hmmm i did not know i needed to unlock the white connector, i must have missed that part, i basically force pushed all the wires in there. My cable got stuck in the small white connector, not the wide 16 hole one. Either way don't know what im goint to say at the dealer tomorrow. I damaged the wire harness with the short prongs. Here is hoping the long one Works.

Might want to specify that in your guide OP. The fact that we need to open the connectors before putting cables inside.

I get you may be frustrated by the situation, but please remember that my walk through was simply how I installed this kit. It is not a "catch all", step by step installation guide. If you do this, you should have some basic knowledge of how automotive electronics work. A good rule of thumb when working on any vehicle is if something does not want to move/release/engage DO NOT force it. Take a step back and analyze before proceeding, this will almost always save you some heartburn in the long run.
 
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