2017~2021 PAC AOEM-MAZ2 adapter install help

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Mazda CX-5 Touring
I'm trying to understand how the whole PAC AOEM-MAZ2 adapter works. It makes no sense to me. I understand how to PAC plugs into the TAU (Tuner Amp Unit) but it makes no sense to me why and how.

1. So essentially there is some cables going into the TAU which I understand are cables that come direct from the speakers as the TAU is essentially the stereo system components the system.

2. You unplug the harness from the TAU and put it into the brown port of the PAC so now the speaker cables are plugged into the PAC unit.

3. You then plug the other PAC harness into the TAU

4. On the other side you now have the RCA's that connect into your new amp.

5. You now have to run speaker wire cables from the Amp to your speakers. However I thought the speaker cables are already plugged into the brown harness on the other side of the PAC for god knows what reason

None of this makes any sense to me. The TAU provides the signal output so the harness thats plugged into the TAU goes through the unit and into the RCA's.

Why are we plugging the cables that go direct to the speaker into the PAC as well when they need to be plugged into the AMP. someone please draw me a diagram before I loose my mind.
 
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2017 Mazda CX5 GS (Touring)
Im going to try and answer this because Im looking to add a small sub somewhere at somepoint and this is how I understand it:

Think of the PAC as "inline" with the out put from the tablet/radio thingy to the speaker system of the car, but then you get the ability to split the signal thats being sent down the wires out to a low level line out (usually in form of RCA) which you can then feed to an amplifier. Then the amp, amplifies that low level signal. You do/use this to avoid splicing into a speaker wire somewhere (usually the rears) for a cleaner install.

There might be a bit more to it than that, but that is the way I understand it.
 
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2017 Mazda CX-5 GT
NON bose system; tapped into the speaker wires located at the bottom of the B pillars and connect the high low converter to it. run your RAC cable to the right and with the power cable coming in from the glove box. Make sure use tape, tape both cable together (minimize vibration noise) and run it to the back. If high low converter does not come with remote turn on tap into the fuse box located next to driver seat kick panel.

Bose sound system; use a high low converter and tap into the factory Sub wires in the back. If the hight low converter doesn't have an output for remote turn on tap into the fuse box located next to driver seat kick panel.

My case, with Bose sound system;
equipment: capacitor, LC2I(high low converter, it needs 12v power and ground), Amp and two subs.
1. run the power wire from the battery to connect capacitor ground to the trunk.
2. run power from the capacitor to power L2CI ground to the trunk(same point as the cap).
3. run power from capacitor to amp, ground same point as the cap.
4. tap into Sub wires in the back, connect LC2I. Run RCA wire to the amp. 5. LC2I has remote output and run that wire to the amp.(Done)
6. final: wire clean up.......

picture:https://www.flickr.com/photos/142892569@N07/shares/8q1uM0
 
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2016 CX-5 Touring
I have the exact same question as the original poster. I think the reason the connector from the speaker cables is being plugged into the PAC connector is so that the buyer has the option of powering the factory speakers/wires with the factory amp/head unit (I'm pretty sure the wires go straight from the HeadUnit/TAU to the speaker connector, bypassing the PAC). Some people may simply want to add extra speakers or a subwoofer and the PAC offers the ability to do this without cutting/splicing into factory wiring.

To accomplish what you're trying to do, which I think is the same as me (add a more powerful amp inline and re-use existing speaker wiring), I think all we need to do is identify the output speaker wires on the PAC side, cut them, and connect them to the amp. The one thing I'm not clear on how is how to do that exactly as the connector going to the speakers has 3 wires for each speaker (negative, positive high level, positive low level) and many amps (at least the Alpine KTP-445U I'm considering) only has 2 wires for each speaker (negative, positive).

Details of wiring diagram for the PAC adapter: https://pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=16
 
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Mazda CX5 SportNav Auto 2.2D
I apologize for jumping the thread, but I have a question and didn't want to open a new thread unnecessarily.
I'm planning to install my Pioneer GM-D9605, using the Pac AOEM-MAZ2 adapter.
As I'm willing to replace all the original Bose speakers, is there any way to use the same original wiring running to the doors, connecting the new amp to the new speakers? My previous experience when running new wiring to the doors is a PITA, and as I'm not going mental about power output, just using better speakers, the original wiring may be suitable?
I'm planning on using the following:
Pioneer GM-D9605
2 x Hertz Dieci DSK 165.3 16.5cm (Front door and Front tweeters) and back, if the size is the same (can anyone confirm the sizes?)
Hertz Energy ES 300.5 - 12" Subwoofer Single Voice Coil
Not sure about the central dash 3" yet.
Appreciate any responses.
 
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Mazda CX5 SportNav Auto 2.2D
here's a link to some pics how to do it.

https://mazda3revolution.com/forums...-ktp-445u-2014-mazda3-tau.html#/topics/160746

1) on the pac unit. cut the wires going to the speakers.

2) run your speaker wires from the amp to the orange plug. replacing the signal from the wires you cut to the speakers.
Appreciate the reply.
Another question, if I may, as I'm using the BOSE system: If I follow the route: HU -> TAU -> PAC -> New Amp -> Orange Plug, the signal will then go to the BOSE amp, correct? Or should I just connect the new amp's wires after the Bose Amp's wires?
I know, sounds complicated.
I'm waiting for the PAC to arrive, then will access the doors and see if running cables directly is off the charts. If that's the only choice, at least returning all to standard later would be easier.
 
Hi , I just read your post "NON bose system; tapped into the speaker wires located at the bottom of the B pillars and connect the high low converter to it."
Do you have the color code or any clue of wich wire I need to tap in ?

Thank's
 
Confirmation request Pls

I read a lot of post, and I think I will give a shot on a PAC AOEM-MAZ2, this way I will not have to Cut/Splice/Tap any cable.
. In the multiple post sometime it's hard to follow, different years, different trim model W or WO Bose .... you see what I mean !

But my question to all off you ?? Did the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 est compatible with my CX-5
CX-5 2017
Canadian edition / GS Trim / Without Bose option

I look behind the gloove box and i saw a connector ... Can you Guy's confirm this is the TAU connector compatible with the PAC AOEM-MAZ2
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qe6lk8ae972bavh/2017%20CX-5_GS.JPG?dl=0

Thank's in Advance
 
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CX-5
The PAC AOEM-MAZ2 will NOT work on 17 up cx5's with bose. The connectors are totally different. Has anyone found or made an adapter to get the pre amp signals between the TAU and Bose amp? I have been searching for a while now.... I'm trying to get a clean unmolested signal for a sub and not use the spare tire connector that's already processed and filtered. Thanks!
 
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2019 CX-5 Sig AWD
The PAC AOEM-MAZ2 will NOT work on 17 up cx5's with bose. The connectors are totally different. Has anyone found or made an adapter to get the pre amp signals between the TAU and Bose amp? I have been searching for a while now.... I'm trying to get a clean unmolested signal for a sub and not use the spare tire connector that's already processed and filtered. Thanks!
I'm looking for the same harness on my 2019 Sig - going to disconnect bose amp and do a simple sub/sat component setup. If bose amp is under passenger seat, like my mazda3, ideally a harness to get the TAU preamp outputs where they connect to the bose amp, so I can just remove the bose amp, and grab the TAU preamp outs under the passenger seat and connect to a c-dsp-8x12-v2 or directly into a JL xd500-3v2 which accepts differential inputs (which I think our bose systems have).

Has anyone confirmed the TAU preamp outputs are differential balanced signals? If the same as the mazda6 that would be awesome: https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/2014-2018-mazda-6-w-bose-full-system-breakdown-analysis.440044/

If the harness isn't available does anyone have a wiring diagram for bose amp inputs, guess I could T-tap them, but would prefer not to if there's a harness out there.
 
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2019 CX-5 GTR
Recently , while shopping locally for a shop to do component front + rear coaxial+ sub upgrade on my 2019 CX5 GTR a shop mentioned wanting to use: https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/dsr1/
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T-Harness to get clean signals to the amplifier solution.

I'm guessing this harness
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4W7NH8/?tag=m20b7-20
but that seems to be for older vehicles. No other mention of Mazda on the official page


perhaps a call to support is in order
SUPPORT: 1.866.427.2999
Monday to Friday: 8:30 am to 8:30 pm EST
 
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2019 CX-5 Sig AWD
Looks like the JL twk-88 DSP is another good choice, and they have that integrated to their VX amp line as well.

Using twk-88 to tap into differential inputs going into Bose amp on a Nissan Leaf:

JL twk-88 DSP:

Their Tun tuning software for laptops / mobile looks pretty nice too:

JL amps with twk-88 DSP built in:

The integrated amp option would definitely simply the install.

Will call to to see if the Maestro harness will work tomorrow.
 
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2019 CX-5 GTR
I'm going with a complete DD Audio solution

DSP

4 channel AMP

SUB amp:

6.5" component front

5.5 coax rear

sub (not this exact one, I own the single voice coil 4ohm model):

since these are small class D amplifiers all of this will be stuffed under the front seats.

This will NOT be a DIY project (been there done that when I was younger). A local shop will be doing the effort

also:
Flashlogic remote start
FSLRSBA
+
RSA-MA3 (t-harness)
+
Carlink ASCL6
 
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2019 CX-5 Sig AWD
Is your shop making a custom harness, or just cutting the plugs off the factory wires at the bose amp and wiring into your DSP?
 
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2019 CX-5 Sig AWD
Found these 2018 CX-5 Bose wiring diagrams, and the cable color and pin locations match the results of the Mazda 6 Bose teardown thread that shows you get differential line-level inputs under the passenger seat going into the Bose amp and can completely remove the Bose amp if replacing with an aftermarket DSP or amp that accepts differential line-level inputs.

A followup on the teardown thread says:
Was in my car earlier and noticed that the volume actual caps at a somewhat random 63. This means that if the volume in that test was truly 40 that the output caps at 3.15V; honestly, I'd more likely believe that the volume when that shot was taken was a tad lower so that the actual max output is 3.3V.
The only difference I see between the Mazda 6 and CX-5 is the remote turn on (acc) wire is violet (CX-5) instead of red/black (Mazda 6), but both are in the 2D pin location on the middle connector plug on the Bose amp.
 

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