P5 Troubling Start and Problems

:
Mazda, Protege5
Hello everyone!,

Just recently my P5's CEL has came up, got it checked. Came up with codes, P0304, P0102, P0113, P2009, P0660. That was 3 weeks ago. When I would stop at a light the car kept wanting to turn off, like bogging. When leaving for I would start the car, but then It'll die as soon as it tries to idle, sometimes it won't even crank leaving me to think I need a new starter. The CEL would appear and go away, I mean like I'll run the car normal, no problems, no bogging, no stuttering, no stalling. But out of nowhere it will show back up and the car will run extremely rough. It goes on like that, CEL comes and goes but only running rough when CEL is on. Also it's has touble sta The things is that I did all I had to do related to the codes, cleaned the MAF. Replaced all wires, coils, and spark plugs. The problem still persists. I don't know what to do anymore. So I came here for some guidance. 👌🤝


Here's with CEL and problems starting.
https://youtu.be/alyRac9HJN8
Here's without CEL (Seconds after recording 1st vid)
https://youtu.be/EwOOTSai02M
 

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
The P0660 is for your VICS solenoid valve.
It has most likely failed (it's quite common)

The P2009 is for "intake runner voltage low" which is referring to either the VICS or the VTCS and that may mean both your solenoids have crapped out. (The factory service manual doesn't have code P2009, it uses another number.)

If replacing the solenoid valve (or valves) doesn't fix your problem then consider cleaning or replacing the EGR and IAC.
 

rsvinylgraphics

2008.5 MGM MS3
Contributor
:
2008.5 MS3
The p0304 code is cylinder 4 misfire. Since you said you replaced the coils, wires and plugs it might be a dirty or faulty fuel injector on cylinder 4.

The p0102 is the mafs, since you said you cleaned it and it didnt help you probably need to replace it.
 
:
2010 Mazda 5 Sport
Why do I smell a bad battery/charging system? You said it won't crank some times? Then there is very little juice in the battery for whatever reason. This will cause a thousand electrical gremlins. Cars running on a very weak charging system will exhibit everything you have mentioned. Bogging...no starts...hard starts...low voltage codes...miss fires.

I for one, would get the battery AND alternator tested at your local parts store. Rule that out.
 
Last edited:
:
2003 Mazda protoge 5
Right above, THIS, this could be the root of your ailments and this is because your car has computers to manage the engine (Engine Control Unit), body (body control unit) and so on and they utilize sensors and all of them need at minimum, 12V to run and then generate a 5V reference signal to control the various sensors (or simply to read their parameters) to control the motor's air/fuel mixture among other things. If either the 12V main voltage or 5V reference, or both are down, you'll get codes, but at that point, you should see something for the charging system too, a sign that it's not working right.

Get that checked, or better yet, grab your Volt/Ohm meter and test at the battery terminals what your battery reads when not running then start the car and get it to idle and then see what you see at the battery, if UNDER 12V at idle, it'll not be fully charging, leaving your poor battery at a subcharged state. To charge, the battery needs to see between 13 and 14V to cover for usage by accessories etc while running.

I just spent almost 2 months getting my car back to health and it turned out to be the timing was apparently a tad off, not enough to keep it from running, but enough to have it running like poo when at idle and then stall out etc. However, an install of the water pump fixed that as I this time made double sure the timing was absolutely spot on and the MAF sensor was swapped out for the old one (the new one appears to have gone faulty) and now see everything as active when viewing on my OBD II reader's live data and has been running fine for about a month now. The reason, being lead down various false paths along the way and the point here is, if you get a bunch of codes and the batter acts like it's barely turning the starter at times, it's a clue something is up with the charging system. I had that issue a couple of years back and it was the alternator not producing enough of a charge to keep the battery fully charge and would periodically run down to where it could not spin the starter. The diode appeared to be the issue. My buddy has just put in (actually I did it) in a 1984 Rabbit yesterday, new from Rock Auto and it's not fully charging, according the hired help at the local Autozone. I need to drop by to get my parka I left there yesterday and I'll take my volt/ohm meter to check and some contact cleaner as the connector on the back of the alternator has the green fuzzies on all three connections and then see what it does.

Also, check your connections to the back of the alternator, battery and starter for good connections and grounds as a bad ground for example will pull your power down to where you get a too big of a voltage drop to adequately charge the battery.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
ive been having electrical issues with mine also (car dies when turned off and constantly needs to be jumped). today i checked the battery terminals and took them off. the negative wire was rusted/ corroded. does anyone know how to replace the negative wire/ ground? thanks in advanced
 
:
2010 Mazda 5 Sport
ive been having electrical issues with mine also (car dies when turned off and constantly needs to be jumped). today i checked the battery terminals and took them off. the negative wire was rusted/ corroded. does anyone know how to replace the negative wire/ ground? thanks in advanced
yes. Depends on if your negative wire simply bolts somewhere are is part of the main wiring harness. Most times it will be part of a wiring harness.

Assuming you need to do a splice:

1. Determine about how far back the cable corrosion goes. On my other car, it was 8" of rotten cable until I could get to near new copper. Also, look and see how many (usually there is 1) smaller grounds come off the end of the negative cable/terminal.
2. Go to your favorite auto parts store and buy a length of negative cable with the correct connections and terminal. I'd opt for the old-school lead terminal. They just work.
3. Buy some 4GA (4 Gauge) BUTT connectors. They sell them in packs of 2.

Now do you want to solder the connection? It's more reliable. If so, you will need a torch and GOOD flux and solder. (flux core solder is not enough...you need flux too). And Heat Shrink tubing for a bit bigger than 4GA wire.

4. Go home cut your negative cable where the corrosion stops.
5. Cut the new negative cable to length.
6. Strip like 1/2"? from both ends. Enough to fit in the BUTT connector.

If you are NOT going to solder:

7. Crimp all connections. Crimp HARD.

If you are going to solder:

7. Strip the plastic off the BUTT connector. Put in a vice...use a sharp knife from top to bottom.
8. Dip the ends of the cable in the flux.
9. Assemble cable, the metal BUTT connector. AND DON'T FORGET THE HEAT SHRINK!
10. Put down something to shield the car under the cable.
11. Crimp the BUTT connector.
12. Solder the whole thing in the car with the torch pointed right at the metal BUTT Connector. There usually is a hole in the middle of the BUTT connector where you can feed in solder.
13. After it cools a bit, place the heat shrink and gently heat it with the Torch on all sides.

Do the other, smaller connections too.

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. Youtube has some video examples.

-Mike
 
Top