Oil squirter delete?

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2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege - Dark Silver
I just had a shop do an overbore for me after I blew my motor, and they couldn't figure out how to remove them so they just bent them out of the way. I'm hesitant to bend them back cause they may be weakened from it and break off eventually.

I've been doing some reading about some people just removing them all together and blocking them off. Just want some opinions on that and some pros and cons. I was running around 340whp and plan to get to 400.

I've deleted them on a Honda h22 before but that's just an NA vtec motor that revs to 7500. Ive been driving that for 40,000 km with no issues.

The result will obviously be more oil pressure for the rod and main bearings, so is this better than a little extra piston lube and cooling? Especially for high HP and boost.
 
Mine have been removed and plugged. It takes a special tool to replace them that bolts to the bottom of the block apparently because they are press in.

Removing them is a pain as well, mine were drilled tapped, and then we used a slide hammer to pull them out.
 
I have been running without them for about 4 years now, 12psi on mods below. So far no problem
 
The 364 whp was on a portable dyno, I was told it was inaccurate. Especially seeing as my civic did 253 on it and was supposed to only make 220-230 with that motor. I'm going for a full dyno tune at a shop when the motor is back together so should have a more accurate number and dyno sheet then.
 
Dyno's are not inaccurate! I dont know where everyone gets this crap.

All a dyno measures is how long it takes to move the drum from one rpm to another. HP and TQ is calculated off of that by your cars rpm.

I laugh everytime I hear someone say our dyno is off, or we strapped the car down too tight. People just get to butt hurt over cars not making what they think they should.

No this being said, numbers car very greatly from one dyno to the next (different Brands, same brands should read about the same dependent on conditions).
 
Dyno's are not inaccurate!.
No this being said, numbers car very greatly from one dyno to the next (different Brands, same brands should read about the same dependent on conditions).
WTF are you trying to say? Because it looks to me like you just contradicted yourself.
If you read that back to yourself, and think really hard about what you just said, you'll see how that was the stupidest post ever.

Dyno A, Location A- 250whp
Dyno A, Location B- 250whp

Dyno B, Location A- 275whp
Dyno B, Location B- 275whp

Dyno C, Location A- 240whp
Dyno C, Location B- 240whp

How would that possibly mean that a dyno is accurate? If you stood on three scales and each one told you that you weighed different ammounts, wouldn't you say that at least two, if not all three, were inaccurate???

Say you get on scale A and it says you weigh 120lb., scale B says you weigh 130lb., and scale C says you weigh 150lb. Again, you would have to agree that two of those, if not all three, were inaccurate.
 
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Dyno accuracy doesn't matter anyway, it's more a tuning and diagnostic tool than a WHP measurement device. It's just rough estimate. The only accurate way to know how much power you're making is an engine dyno that reads BHP like what auto makers and engine builders use.
 
WTF are you trying to say? Because it looks to me like you just contradicted yourself.
If you read that back to yourself, and think really hard about what you just said, you'll see how that was the stupidest post ever.

Dyno A, Location A- 250whp
Dyno A, Location B- 250whp

Dyno B, Location A- 275whp
Dyno B, Location B- 275whp

Dyno C, Location A- 240whp
Dyno C, Location B- 240whp

How would that possibly mean that a dyno is accurate? If you stood on three scales and each one told you that you weighed different ammounts, wouldn't you say that at least two, if not all three, were inaccurate???

Say you get on scale A and it says you weigh 120lb., scale B says you weigh 130lb., and scale C says you weigh 150lb. Again, you would have to agree that two of those, if not all three, were inaccurate.

You have no understanding of how dynos work then.
 
WTF are you trying to say? Because it looks to me like you just contradicted yourself.
If you read that back to yourself, and think really hard about what you just said, you'll see how that was the stupidest post ever.

Dyno A, Location A- 250whp
Dyno A, Location B- 250whp

Dyno B, Location A- 275whp
Dyno B, Location B- 275whp

Dyno C, Location A- 240whp
Dyno C, Location B- 240whp

How would that possibly mean that a dyno is accurate? If you stood on three scales and each one told you that you weighed different ammounts, wouldn't you say that at least two, if not all three, were inaccurate???

Say you get on scale A and it says you weigh 120lb., scale B says you weigh 130lb., and scale C says you weigh 150lb. Again, you would have to agree that two of those, if not all three, were inaccurate.

You didn't read what I typed at all. Let me use crayons for you.

Dynos of the same brand (I.E. dynojet, mustang dyno) will read about the same depending on atmospheric conditions.

Take a car from one dyno to another of the same brand (dynojet to dynojet), the numbers will be fairly close.

Take a car from one brand of a dyno to another (dynojet to mustang), the maybe we 10-20% different.
 
It's nice eh? Have a nice normal car with creature comforts to bomb through the snow in. Most the time my Mazda 3 is driven by the wife so sometimes I gotta bust the civic out. It's pretty much my backup car cause the ole protege likes to break stuff......, anyway lol about them oil squirters haha.
 
You didn't read what I typed at all. Let me use crayons for you.

Dynos of the same brand (I.E. dynojet, mustang dyno) will read about the same depending on atmospheric conditions.

Take a car from one dyno to another of the same brand (dynojet to dynojet), the numbers will be fairly close.

Take a car from one brand of a dyno to another (dynojet to mustang), the maybe we 10-20% different.

A 10%-20% difference is not accurate.
 
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