OEM roof rails improperly installed by dealer

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'20 CX-5 Signature
The roof rails for my 2020 CX-5 were installed by the dealer (already on the car when purchased) I've had the car about 3 weeks. Yesterday I was washing the car and noticed the rails aren't installed correctly. The left side rear molding part is not flush in the channel the rails mount in and is kinda bulging up on the sides. I've attached some pictures.

My questions are does this even matter? Does this affect water draining off the roof correctly or over time will this lead to the roof rails breaking or damaging my car? And based on that is this something I can easily fix myself by removing the rail and reattaching it or should I just take it back to the dealer? The dealer is about 45 minutes away so it's not just a quick hop over there to deal with this.

I am kinda OCD so now that I know this is messed up I'm gonna notice it all the time so I probably will want to fix it one way or another.
 

Attachments

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Phoenix
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2020 CX5 signature
I can't tell by your pictures, but I can tell by your description. I installed the OEM ones myself. While it's a straightforward process, it wasn't necessarily straightforward to get them to seat in the indent made for them. I could easily see somebody doing a half-baked job. You could remove them and re-attach, but be warned, the screws have the red permanent type Loctite on them
 
it appears from your picture that the rubber moulding piece twisted under the rail during installation.
There are no bolts/screws that far towards the end, so it’s not bulging the rail, just the rubber underneath. So no damage would be caused aside from the rubber.
To fix; carefully remove the caps (at least 4 of em) loosen/remove the screws, lift the offending end gently, then adjust rubber accordingly.
Tighten screws to 110in lbs. don’t over torque.
Tools needed would be a t-25 and a thin sturdy pick of some sort for cap removal. Just insert gently on each side of cap(pop one side at a time works)
A fiber stick is handy too if needed for the rubber movement.
 
Last edited:
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'20 CX-5 Signature
it appears from your picture that the rubber moulding piece twisted under the rail during installation.
There are no bolts/screws that far towards the end, so it’s not bulging the rail, just the rubber underneath. So no damage would be caused aside from the rubber.
To fix; carefully remove the caps (at least 4 of em) loosen/remove the screws, lift the offending end gently, then adjust rubber accordingly.
Tighten screws to 110in lbs. don’t over torque.
Tools needed would be a t-25 and a thin sturdy pick of some sort for cap removal. Just insert gently on each side of cap(pop one side at a time works)
A fiber stick is handy too if needed for the rubber movement.
Yeah that's what I figure as well. They didn't even notice it wasn't straight or didn't care. I don't have a torque wrench but I suppose I might as well get one. I was planning on doing oil changes and tire rotations myself so I'd need it for that anyhow.


I can't tell by your pictures, but I can tell by your description. I installed the OEM ones myself. While it's a straightforward process, it wasn't necessarily straightforward to get them to seat in the indent made for them. I could easily see somebody doing a half-baked job. You could remove them and re-attach, but be warned, the screws have the red permanent type Loctite on them
I don't see loctite mentioned in the installation instructions (https://sep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/0000-8L-R09.pdf?t=1594386656&) so do the screws come with some sort of threadlocker tape on them? And is it breakable?
 
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2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
I would first try to just push the rubber down and in with a plastic spatula, or the edge of a credit card. You may well find you can seat it much better. Even if not, only loosen the screws at the front to get the rail lifted slightly and try the 'pushing in' again.
 
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Southwest Ohio
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'19 CX-5 diesel
Brand new car that I'm not happy with? I'm taking it back to the dealer to fix it right and if they didn't properly install the accessory, they should offer a free oil change for my trouble bringing it back.

I would call the salesman and let him know about the issue and make plans to have it adjusted at 1st oil change along with anything else that comes up.
 
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Phoenix
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2020 CX5 signature
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2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
Yeah that's what I figure as well. They didn't even notice it wasn't straight or didn't care. I don't have a torque wrench but I suppose I might as well get one. I was planning on doing oil changes and tire rotations myself so I'd need it for that anyhow.




I don't see loctite mentioned in the installation instructions (https://sep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/0000-8L-R09.pdf?t=1594386656&) so do the screws come with some sort of threadlocker tape on them? And is it breakable?
You'll most likely need two torque wrenches. One for the inch-pound range and one for the foot-pound range.
 
Sorry, t-30. I misspoke.
Yes, make sure you only go In. lbs.
not ft. lbs. don’t throw tire torque on those bad boys!
And I wouldn’t try shoving it around, that will tear the rubber with how twisted it looks.
 
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'20 CX-5 Signature
You'll most likely need two torque wrenches. One for the inch-pound range and one for the foot-pound range.
I'm glad you did mention this because the one I got is foot pound. I was thinking it looked rather large for this job. I'm sure I would have realized when I tried to set it but then I would have had to wait to get the proper tool.

Can anyone recommend a decent inch pound torque wrench? I'm assuming the oil plug would use the inch pound one as well.
 

TBarney

'17 CX-5 AWD GT Prem. Original owner of 91 Miata.
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Atlanta metro
1/4" drive inch-pound torque wrench can be found at Harbor Freight. Currently $9.99 with coupon: http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/TORQUE+WRENCHES
Don't forget to pick up some sort of adapter for your Torx bit if you don't already have something that will fit.
I'd guess the oil plug is in the low teen ft.-lbs., so the 3/8" drive wrench at HF will work well for that.
EDIT: I guessed wrong. Oil drain plug torque is 23-30 ft.lbs. so definitely the 3/8" drive torque wrench. http://www.mcx5.org/engine_oil_replacement-1543.html
 

TBarney

'17 CX-5 AWD GT Prem. Original owner of 91 Miata.
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Atlanta metro
Also, a thought on the "threadlocker" on the screws: Mazda also uses a red sealant on new flywheel bolts (at least for a Miata) and while it does act as a threadlocker, it's more like Loctite 242 (blue) in terms of securing the bolt. It is not permanent and doesn't require massive torque to loosen.

The red substance on the threads is primarily a sealant, because the holes in the crank where the flywheel bolts up go all the way through, and are exposed to engine oil. You don't want it seeping past the threads and getting on the face of the flywheel. If you re-use flywheel bolts, you're instructed to thoroughly clean them - as well as the holes - and use fresh "sealant" when you reinstall them.

Not knowing exactly how the roof rails are attached, is it possible that the red substance on those screws is also more of a sealant, to prevent water intrusion through the roof? Or do they handle that another way?

I'm just thinking, if you disturb that screw, do you need to worry about re-sealing it when you put it back?
 
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2014 & 2019 CX-5 Touring(s)
Not knowing exactly how the roof rails are attached, is it possible that the red substance on those screws is also more of a sealant, to prevent water intrusion through the roof? Or do they handle that another way?
No, there is no intrusion into the roof. If you don't have the roof rails, the holes are left open.

All this talk about torque... just use an allen key and tighten by hand. You really don't need a perfect torque measurement for this (and I can guarantee the mechanics didn't use one to install it in the first place).
 
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Pueblo county CO
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CX-5 Sport 16.5 6M
I keep my OEM rails on a shelf in my garage.

I replaced the black strips with short pieces of foam rubber and some stainless steel M6 screws. The screws have been handy a time or two to attach things but no light comes thru the holes if I leave them out.
 
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2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
1/4" drive inch-pound torque wrench can be found at Harbor Freight. Currently $9.99 with coupon: http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/TORQUE+WRENCHES
Don't forget to pick up some sort of adapter for your Torx bit if you don't already have something that will fit.
I'd guess the oil plug is in the low teen ft.-lbs., so the 3/8" drive wrench at HF will work well for that.
EDIT: I guessed wrong. Oil drain plug torque is 23-30 ft.lbs. so definitely the 3/8" drive torque wrench. http://www.mcx5.org/engine_oil_replacement-1543.html
$10 for a torque wrench? Sorry, but I wouldn't go that cheap. You get what you pay for and if you're going through the trouble of torqueing something to specs use something better than a $10 tool.

YMMV
 
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Phoenix
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2020 CX5 signature
$10 for a torque wrench? Sorry, but I wouldn't go that cheap. You get what you pay for and if you're going through the trouble of torqueing something to specs use something better than a $10 tool.

YMMV
Not so quick. Check out what the miata.net guys are saying

 
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2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
Not so quick. Check out what the miata.net guys are saying

Your link ain't workin'.

I'm a member of that forum and I don't remember seeing any discussion of HF torque wrenches.

In any case, a $10 tool is a $10 tool. I choose to spend a lil more and get something that I can trust.
 

Pitter

Pitter
Contributor
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2020 CX-5 Signature Azul Metalico
I'm having them installed two days from now at Mazda. Sure hope they do it right.
 
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